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Review: Woo Audio WA6 vs. WA6SE (stock units) - Page 3

post #31 of 508
Oh thingys works in the right circle. That thingy there, the one with four do-dads and a thing-a-bajobber with two legs welded to it.
post #32 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by tommytomickey View Post
STOP POST WHORING TO BUMP YOUR POST COUNT!
post #33 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict View Post
STOP POST WHORING TO BUMP YOUR POST COUNT!
I am sorry I can't help myself.

Ok, it's the other guy. So I guess he is doing it so he can sell on the FS site?

So there are some other changes to the SE. It has DC to the filaments, more filtering, directly coupled sections, a delay on circuit, different output transformers, and a few other things.

Can someone measure the voltage on the tubes?
post #34 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
Oh thingys works in the right circle. That thingy there, the one with four do-dads and a thing-a-bajobber with two legs welded to it.
John, what about that dang deal over there? The one next to the thing-a-bajobber?

Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict

STOP POST WHORING TO BUMP YOUR POST COUNT!

Sorry about that.
post #35 of 508
Thanks for the impressions - confirmed I suspected: that, although the benefit of the SE is incremental, it is non-insignificant.
post #36 of 508
The SE has the room for a battery bias for the tubes. That would be sweet. Also the resistor between pins should be of highest quality as it will affect the sound. The metal films often have a slightly high frequency whitish sound and isn't noticed until compared to something like a good carbon or tantalum (no longer available). Also the cathode bias cap is 220uf. I find that a 470uf gives a little better bass at sometimes, a slight decrease in mids but not always. I use a 470uf on my 6 for the bypass. Also the cathode bypass resistor is important and again I would use a carbon or go battery bias and do away with the resistor and cap.
post #37 of 508
you guys know I quoted "tommytomickey" with that "post whore" comment. He's been posting smileys all over freaking head-fi to bump his post count - then he got tired of that and told everyone in the full size headphone forum to look for his eBay auction for ATH-ESW9.
post #38 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
I am sorry I can't help myself.

Ok, it's the other guy. So I guess he is doing it so he can sell on the FS site?

So there are some other changes to the SE. It has DC to the filaments, more filtering, directly coupled sections, a delay on circuit, different output transformers, and a few other things.

Can someone measure the voltage on the tubes?
john, i'm getting 205v from pin one and 62v at pin six.
post #39 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict View Post
you guys know I quoted "tommytomickey" with that "post whore" comment. He's been posting smileys all over freaking head-fi to bump his post count - then he got tired of that and told everyone in the full size headphone forum to look for his eBay auction for ATH-ESW9.
Is there a way to ban him from this forum?
post #40 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by takezo View Post
john, i'm getting 205v from pin one and 62v at pin six.
How does that voltage compare to the standard 6? I haven't measured mine
post #41 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
...The metal films often have a slightly high frequency whitish sound and isn't noticed until compared to something like a good carbon or tantalum (no longer available). Also the cathode bias cap is 220uf. I find that a 470uf gives a little better bass at sometimes, a slight decrease in mids but not always. I use a 470uf on my 6 for the bypass. Also the cathode bypass resistor is important and again I would use a carbon or go battery bias and do away with the resistor and cap.
hey john, i noticed partsconnection having a resistor called shinkoh-tantalum
along with the newer tantalums. are these the original japanese tantalum?
post #42 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by atbglenn View Post
How does that voltage compare to the standard 6? I haven't measured mine
last i checked, it was 178v and 64v.
post #43 of 508
Yeah that is what I thought. More voltage on the plate of the power section. The plate of the driver section is about the same but the second section is getting more voltage and putting out more power. They increased it about 25 volts. I know I mentioned some time back that the tube could be run at much higher voltages, which will give it more power. Well good.

What do you measure on DC for pin 4 and 5?
post #44 of 508
Quote:
Originally Posted by takezo View Post
hey john, i noticed partsconnection having a resistor called shinkoh-tantalum
along with the newer tantalums. are these the original japanese tantalum?
Yes, buy some for me! :^) I will have to go look but have to read the resistor between the pins to know the value or take the tube out and measure the resistance.
post #45 of 508
John,

Since the standard 6 supplies less voltage to the plate, should the tube last longer then?
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