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FrankenZERO - A bang for buck exploration with a DIY Heart ! - Page 6

post #76 of 427
11/10/08 at 12:22pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syu View Post
Thanks Peete!

Let me ask another question. I want to use OS-CONs to replace 4 x 100uf 25V caps but there is no 100uf/25V OS-CON. 120uf/20V is the closest OS-CON I could find... Does this work fine there?
Those should work great Syu !!!

Thank you Syu and good luck with your upgrade !!!

Peete.
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post #77 of 427
11/12/08 at 4:14am
hey i just got my kit today! i started working on it and it's been fun except for the part where i slipped with my iron and sizzled my finger. smelled like a steak!

anyway i can't wait to listen to it. everything is detailed and well laid-out/organized. i'll let you know how i like it once i get a chance to hear it
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post #78 of 427
11/12/08 at 7:06am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxbaker View Post
hey i just got my kit today! i started working on it and it's been fun except for the part where i slipped with my iron and sizzled my finger. smelled like a steak!

anyway i can't wait to listen to it. everything is detailed and well laid-out/organized. i'll let you know how i like it once i get a chance to hear it
Wow that was fast (shipping + your installation, you must be been ready to go the moment it showed up)......the sizzled finger thing happens...even to the experienced guys. On my second last solder joint today (KHA II amp) I fried my pinky a little...still don't know I managed it....smelled like dead camel ass to me...

Hope you like the Frankie XXB

Peete.
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post #79 of 427
11/12/08 at 9:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete View Post
Those should work great Syu !!!

Thank you Syu and good luck with your upgrade !!!

Peete.
Thanks again!

Btw do you know actual voltage on those 100uF caps?
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post #80 of 427
11/13/08 at 1:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syu View Post
Btw do you know actual voltage on those 100uF caps?
On my pure DAC mode ZERO, 3 caps of the 4 are with 4.9V and the other 1 is with 3.2V.

*edit
I'm a little concerned that these 4 caps aren't with all the same voltage. Is that normal?
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post #81 of 427
11/13/08 at 11:28am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by isao2k8 View Post
On my pure DAC mode ZERO, 3 caps of the 4 are with 4.9V and the other 1 is with 3.2V.

*edit
I'm a little concerned that these 4 caps aren't with all the same voltage. Is that normal?
That's normal operation voltages isao,...the receiver chip operates at a different voltage than the DAC. If you look closely at the digital section's voltage regulators close by, you'll notice one is +5 VDC and the other +3.3 V DC. The 4 caps are split into pairs, one pair for the DAC chip the other pair (i"m assuming) for the Cirrus Logic receiver chip. Without a schematic to study the conclusions I've made are rough guesses but I believe they are correct. I'm sure someone else can clarify this further if need be.

Peete.
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post #82 of 427
11/13/08 at 12:49pm
Regarding the PITA remaining solder in the PCB (that block the hole to insert the cap), is it better to use a bigger desoldering gun, such as 205 mm, thinner suction hole, etc.

I was told the kill is very important, and it can easily suck all the solder.
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post #83 of 427
11/13/08 at 1:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete View Post
That's normal operation voltages isao,...the receiver chip operates at a different voltage than the DAC. If you look closely at the digital section's voltage regulators close by, you'll notice one is +5 VDC and the other +3.3 V DC. The 4 caps are split into pairs, one pair for the DAC chip the other pair (i"m assuming) for the Cirrus Logic receiver chip. Without a schematic to study the conclusions I've made are rough guesses but I believe they are correct. I'm sure someone else can clarify this further if need be.

Peete.
Thanks Peete. It seems to be strange for me that not two but only one cap out of 4 has 3.2(3.3)V. Though, yes, 3.3 is reasonable value as you mentioned

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccschua View Post
Regarding the PITA remaining solder in the PCB (that block the hole to insert the cap), is it better to use a bigger desoldering gun, such as 205 mm, thinner suction hole, etc.

I was told the kill is very important, and it can easily suck all the solder.
I used a toothpick and a solder wick to remove solder in through-holes and they worked very well. A Japanese guide here: ƒvƒŠƒ“ƒgŠî”‚̃ŠƒyƒA
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post #84 of 427
11/13/08 at 5:35pm
Btw what are the roles of 4 x 47uf 25V caps in Analong Section? Some sort of decoupling caps? (I can't read patterns on PCB, sorry)
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post #85 of 427
11/14/08 at 9:21am
DC blocking. allow AC signal to pass thru.

dont really understand what u mean by toothpick and solder wick? how ?
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post #86 of 427
11/16/08 at 6:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccschua View Post
DC blocking. allow AC signal to pass thru.

dont really understand what u mean by toothpick and solder wick? how ?
All right, thanks. I'll try in total 8 x Silmic II

To clean solder in through-holes with a toothpick and a solder wick, heat the solder from back-side of PCB, put a toothpick in the hole from front-side of PCB, pull the toothpick out and use a solder wick from back-side of PCB.
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post #87 of 427
11/17/08 at 12:33pm
OK get it now. U mean push the toothpick till it solidify at the underside, then use wick to clear ?

Anyway some boards are too big to reach both side. I have got myself better desoldering gun (duratool) hope to test.

I found some board (green) which is so easy to handle as compared to Zero board.
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post #88 of 427
11/17/08 at 1:00pm
I wouldn't use toothpicks, hood particles may involuntarily be left and contaminate the future joint.
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post #89 of 427
11/18/08 at 12:46pm
Oh my god. Here comes the Franken ZERO ....









also my diy shigaraki transport.

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post #90 of 427
11/18/08 at 1:08pm
I have some standard Cardas CTFA rca jacks I was going to use to upgrade the crappy ouput jacks. However, I see that people in this thread are using CMC jacks which look like a nice idea since the nut is on the outside of the case which means they could be removed from the chassis with the wires still connected to the board. What source are people getting the CMC jacks from? Or I suppose I could use some Cardas GRFA instead and that would be pretty much the same thing.
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