The Zero MOD Thread - 24/192 DAC/H/Amp - Page 7

Ditto on the great job, DaMnEd! Interestingly, my OPA Earth in Frankie does NOT have the earth wire connected, because I have the 1uF PIO BA mod on mine and it's not needed. Like PP, I have stunning stereo separation and big soundstage. Yet, on my KHA amps, I have the later generation OPA Moon HDAMs with the 1uF box caps and I HAVE connected the ground wires on them (as we're supposed to with the box cap modules) and have that same stunning separation. Kingwa does say that technically the modules are better with the ground connected, if not sonically.
My ears and heart tell me that the communication skills of these marvelous HDAMs used in conjunction with the Frankie mods are taking me/us beyond a level of what can be measured. What's interesting is that the distortion specs are not that great, yet what's coming out of the RCA jacks is far less distorted in a musical communication sense than any op-amp ever did, in virtually every way that musically matters.
Also, you're on the money with HomeGrown Audio, they have the gorgeous silver plated LOK RCA connectors too. My White Zombie La Cacanya silver cables came with them on and I was so impressed that I found out where WZ got them from and ordered a set!
S-Man

I have some very, very n00b questions, so please forgive me, I have no background in DAC modding or basic engineering at all:

1) How do I remove the stock NE5532P and how do I install the LT1364? Will I require any tools?

2) Same as above, but how do I install the HDAM? Ideally how long of an extension wire should I get?

3) What is the purpose of the BA cap mod, and how does it affect the sound?

4) Will I be able to perform the pot swap with some degree of ease, given I have no soldering experience?

Thanks.

Oooh oooh Ill take these.

I am also a noob but with a tiny bit more experience as I have handled the stuff you are about to do.

1) The opamp switch is easy but you have to be gentle pulling them out or you can bend the pins. They feel like cheap tin and they could tear if you rock them back and forth with any force. If you have tweezers or fine pliers you can pull them straight up and out. You can also use your fingers but you might have to remove the board so your fingers fit better. Make sure the crescent on the opamp and socket line up and you are good to go.

2) I would buy a 200mm extension for the HDAM. I originally ordered the 100mm extension but it really limits your placement options. The extension has a socket on one end and the 8 pin connector on the other. Same deal with lining up the crescent on the HDAM with the one on the extension, then lining up the 8 pin adaptor with the crescent on the board socket.

3)Dunno

4) You should practice desoldering components from a broken piece of equipment. Then practice soldering them back in.
This tangent tutorial is immensely helpful with equipment purchases and part 2
has the how to solder:

Basic Soldering Equipment

I did the pot swap with about a weeks worth of practice. You need good desoldering braid and solder sucker to make sure the holes are clean to install the new pot. Make sure you break off that little tab at the front of the pot so it can fit comfortably.

Check out these pics of other successful pot swaps:

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/zer...ml#post4880859

Thanks to everyone (especially Peete) who ha guided me this far and is helping me pass on the knowledge and experience gained from this project.

hi ,forgive me if the question so noob ,I don't know what is the difference between the earth ,sun and moon and if I only use the zero as the preamp ,what should I mod it ?
Thank

More n00b questions :

1) This one's for DaMnEd, but if anyone else can answer it, I'd be much obliged How do I 'ground' the HDAM module? I'm guessing this involves the use of a ground wire? Does it come with the HDAM, or do I need to obtain it some place else? Will I have to solder the ground wire, and if I do, where do I solder it to?

2) Again, what is the purpose of the BA cap mod, and how does it affect the sound of the Zero? Where can I obtain the BA cap? I'm located in Singapore.

Thanks!

Hi leothan, let's see what we can do for you here. For starters the Zero makes for a perfectly fine pre-amp into a headphone amp, it has excellent transparency and is as quiet as a tomb, particularly when modded, as in Frankie. I had some noise in one channel from new, right up until the time my Frankie mods ran in, now it's as if the thing is turned off at the wall. Quiet!

The three HDAMs, OPAQ Earth, OPA Moon and OPA Sun are Hyper Dynamic Audio Modules made from discrete components, ie transistors and resistors and capacitors and are drop in replacements for the chip op-amps in the Zero. You only need be concerned with three of them, one in the DAC (the main board) and two others in the head amp, one for each channel.
For the DAC, OPA Earth is regarded generally as the finest of the versions to have in there, it is the most neutral of the three. OPA Sun was designed with an enhanced bass and treble for those who desired such a thing and some people do prefer that, it can suit the balance of some headphones too.
OPA Moon is the newest member of the trilogy and is a different circuit design again from the others, being what's known as Single-Ended. For me, it maybe what makes this module so special and it has become dear to my heart for the sheer level of communication it brings to the musical event. It suits my amplifiers so well that it's like a match made in heaven. I use the OPA Earth in the DAC and it is utterly brilliant there. Many do and find the same thing.
So mate, IMHO, OPA Earth is a very fine place to start, pop it in the DAC and solder the earth wire to an appropriate place nearby.
I gather that if you are using the Zero as a pre-amp, you are not bothered about the head amp at all? You generally cannot go past the LT1364 op-amps in there - you'll need two to replace the 5532's that are there now, I am assuming that because I don't know the level of Zero you have there. A number of variants have come out in the last months.
If you can provide some more information, we can help you further as far as you want to go! We love it! Feel free to ask for whatever you need, there are many fine and enthusiastic Head-Fiers here. No question is too dumb, we all had 'em.
Cheers, S-Man

Well, DaMnEd can answer it just fine, but I seem to be the only one around at the moment.
Yes, each HDAM comes with a ground wire and yes, you will have to solder it in. Best place, if it is long enough, is to an earth leg of the RCA output jacks. If it's a bit short, just soldering a short extension on will be fine.

Ah, the BA cap mod. BA stands for Burson Audio, the designers of the original Burson HDAM, which has since been taken over by audio-gd with adaptions and new models. However, the BA cap mod is their idea and it's a very fine option to the cap mod that a-gd have done to their modules. The configuration is different and apparently has a different sonic signature. I have yet to try the BA cap mod in my amp's Moon HDAMs. The BA mod does NOT need the ground wire and the a-gd mod does. You can have a look for yourself on a-gd's website, address below.
My OPA Earth in the DAC has the BA cap mod, using a 1uF Paper In Oil Russian capacitor that is sonically a wonder!
In my amps, I use the the OPA Moon HDAMs with the a-gd cap mods and earthed to the boards. These too, are stunningly good in my amps.

The Russian PIO caps can be bought from a couple of sites, here's one that I use:
USSR tubes, capacitors, sockets, and other military euipment, Vacuum TUBES, Nixies, MAGIC EYE tubes, Sockets, RARE tubes, Capacitors You need a 1uF K42Y-2 PIO 160V cap
They are unbelievably cheap and about the very best you can buy anywhere.
The BA cap mod is part of a whole modification process that upgrades the whole DAC and turns a nice little bit of kit into something far far beyond what you would ever expect to hear way beyond it's price class. Way beyond. As for the BA mod on it's own, I don't know. PP is the man to ask about that, or Penchum, they have the most experience of these mods by a long way.
All I know is, my FrankenZero is unbelievably brilliant at converting ones and zeros into the finest sound I've ever heard in many years of audio.
It affects the sound in immensely beautiful ways that you have to wait some 250-300+ hours of burning in to hear and appreciate.
The purpose of the BA mod has been cause of much discussion and once again, PP may be your best bet for a better answer than I can give. I just know that it works!
Audio-gd also have an explanation in their site.
Does this help?
The address for audio-gd is:
н¨ÍøÒ³ 1

S-Man

Thank for your advise ,Yeb ,I don't intend to use the zero as HP amp ,just use it as preamp for my LD MKIII ,the HP that I am using is HD600 ,i prefer the sound more neutral ,so U think the Earth is the best choice ? How many I will need to replace and how it can be done ?
Thank alot

Just got my Zero and am loving it. Plan on modding it in the future, but nothing just yet.

Hi sennsay, thanks so much for that long explanation

I'd appreciate if you could clarify a few more things for me:

1) I've ordered an OPA-Moon from audio-gd. The ground wire comes with the OPA-Moon, correct? Is the ground wire a separate item from the Moon, or is it attached to it? Could you point out to me where the earth wire of the RCA output jack is?

2) I'm still slightly confused about the BA cap mod

- Would I be correct to understand that there are 2 different cap mods that can be done - the BA cap mod, and the audio-gd cap mod?

- What then would be the difference between the BA cap mod and the audio-gd cap mod, in terms of sound?

- Does audio-gd perform the cap mod, or is it a mod I have to do myself when I get the HDAM?

- The last line of audio-gd's cap mod explanation says that: "Our OPAs have upgrade to the best Cap-Mod, so people don't need add capacitors on our OPAs." Does this imply that the HDAMs ship with the audio-gd cap mod already performed? Why would the BA cap mod need to be done then, when it says we don't need to add capacitors ourselves?

- Lastly, is this the capacitor I want for the BA mod?

Sorry about all the questions, and thanks so much again!

Thank you Pete!

So this means when I receive my Moon there will already be 2 poly box caps on them, which I will then remove and replace with the PIO/BA cap?

It comes with the OPA module, and you do not need to solder, I didn't, I just unscrewed one bolt on the main board, and then I screwed it back again but with the ground wire on the module stuck in between.

In the Zero thread, people reported the HDAMs become very hot if they were grounded on the chassis. The best method was to ground them on the RCA ground, which improves SQ.