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post #31 of 180
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccschua View Post
Haliluya,

PP u got the cap modded. I thot u would go Oscon. how about Blackgate to replace the Blue KLE.

also the yellow cap, when u gonna replace with red WIMA.

Our modded unit replace the rca decoupling cap with Silver mica, which serve as ground look breaker. perhaps can try.
It'll be a while before I do anymore to the Zero. I have other projects on the go...but I'm keeping a close eye on this thread and the other 2...since my heart is with Frank every time I fire up the comp based system and listen

The only thing I may do is replace a couple more 100uf KLE's and maybe swap the Panasonic FC 100uf 25V for OS-CONs (same value 16V if I can find some locally for not much money). BG's are out of the question and WIMA's I don't really like their sound sig too much (except the Black Box caps).

Which cap mod are you talking about CC...there are so many now it 's hard to keep track of them all..



Mz5 I didn't say it wasn't worth upgrading the clock can in the Zero, all I said is it's a fairly decent clock in there now and it might be better to spend that money elsewhere. Any new clock can will cost 30US minimum...a TentLabs TX02 kit is over 100US, and TX03 with SPDIF re-clock 135US..add in the power supply and reg board your well over 250US....makes no sense to me to spend that on the Zero...a killer CDP or much higher end base unit DAC ...(if compatible) then Yes. No doubt it would be fun to see what a new hi end clock and PSU would add to the mix....If I upgrade my TX02 unit + custom PSU to a TX03 I can do it but I'd need that new 49.XXXX MHz can to try.

If you want to though, then I say go for it.....once caveat, it's hard to locate a 49.1520 Mhz clock. I looked around for one that didn't cost a fortune (*cough LC Audio cough*). Tentlabs may have that frequency but you'll have to email Guido and ask him. I don't see it listed at DIY HI FI supply or at Guido's web site (Tentlabs....Guido's surname is Tent).

Peete.
post #32 of 180
Out of interest, my Lavry DA10 arrived today and I have started to compare it to the Zero. The Lavry's HP amp demolishes the one in the Zero, not surprisingly, but the HDAM upgraded Zero with superfluous caps snipped is not that far off that I can't imagine upgrading the RCA jacks and caps wouldn't bring the DAC section tantalizingly close.
post #33 of 180
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Currawong View Post
Out of interest, my Lavry DA10 arrived today and I have started to compare it to the Zero. The Lavry's HP amp demolishes the one in the Zero, not surprisingly, but the HDAM upgraded Zero with superfluous caps snipped is not that far off that I can't imagine upgrading the RCA jacks and caps wouldn't bring the DAC section tantalizingly close.
It would be interesting to pit the FrankenZERO against the Lavry......that sure is a nice DAC CW !!!

Not surprised by the DA10 H/Amp stomping the Zero's....

I bet your having a lot of fun lately with the new gear

Peete.
post #34 of 180
And it should for the price, no ? :-)

I have not seen the schematic for the zero headphone amp but it looks like a cmoy with a couple of buffers thrown on the outputs. A good cmoy can sound really good with high impedance phones but it definitely can be improved upon. I wonder what it would take to bring it up to snuff.
post #35 of 180
Thread Starter 
Agreed eg,

Check out what I did to it (Zero's H/Amp) on page 1. It's way better than stock now.

Heres a couple of crappy pics....








Peete.
post #36 of 180
Wow, thanks for sharing! Do the discrete op amps really sound that much better than a good National op amp or 627? I want to buy some but the shipping is crazy for just one or two. Also, is that a dedicated power supply for the head amp? What voltage are you sending to it? Do you have the schematic for the head amp?

If the discrete op amps sound that good I want to try them in my pimeta!
post #37 of 180
Yes, they do sound that much better. I'm going to try a pair of them in my LD MKV and I'm hoping more people will give them a go in other opamp-based gear.
post #38 of 180
Thanks Peete,
i won't do anything for the clock anymore :-)
and what do u use for power cable ?

will show you the pics after RCA, coax connector and signal cable mods

has any one try this setup? earth on the pre and mood on the hp/amp . how is it compare to sun on the pre and earth on the hp/amp?


Thanks
post #39 of 180
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by espressogeek View Post
Wow, thanks for sharing! Do the discrete op amps really sound that much better than a good National op amp or 627? I want to buy some but the shipping is crazy for just one or two. Also, is that a dedicated power supply for the head amp? What voltage are you sending to it? Do you have the schematic for the head amp?

If the discrete op amps sound that good I want to try them in my pimeta!
Hi eg,

Sorry for taking so long to answer your questions...I've been very busy of late as you can well imagine.

I'll answer what I can...the schematic has been requested but no one is filling that request ( I guess they want to protect the topology from copy cats....wise idea when you consider all the clones in China).

That is a totally separate power supply for the H/Amp. It completely isolates the H/Amp from the Zero's power supply and takes the strain off the 2 regulators in the Zero's analog section. There are cheaper ways to achieve this same result. I paid quite a bit for this kit (and had to assemble it all) so my advice would be to source your PSU from Chinese suppliers if you should go this route.

You need a +15 0 -15 VDC output from the regulator board to the 3 pads underneath the Head amp board where the old black 3 wire power cable attached (now unattached ). The transformer is a basic toroidal that delivers 50MA is configurable at the primary for either voltage standard with the secondaries delivering 25V x 2. Most places you buy their psu module from will be able to help you select the proper spec transformer or will have the exact specs you'll need to submit to another store so that combination will function properly. The rule of thumb is the transformers secondaries are higher in output going into the reg board. The voltage regulators need a higher voltage on their inputs in order to output the regulated target voltage for the amp/dac etc's requirements.


Shipping for the audio-gd HDAM's is very reasonable compared to eBay stores. I think my shipping charge is 15US for DHL Express which has to travel from China to N America.

That's a pretty darn good deal not to mention the bonus extra's Kingwa includes with each order. Check the website for news on those offers.

I think that covers everything that I can answer eg

Peete.
post #40 of 180
just change my RCA and coax to CMC RCA 805-2.5-Ag Silver Plate and interconnect with kimber pbj

also the picture of HP-amp external power connector
LL
LL
post #41 of 180
Nice work.

Lately I had some problems with hunting on the Coaxial input of ZERO DAC. I somehow stick to optical connection to avoid the hunting problem.
post #42 of 180
Redid the position of the HDAM
Much cooler now.




BTW the offset mod. really works well. Very happy with it.
post #43 of 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asylum years View Post
Is the HDAM sticked to the 2200uF cap? I woulnd't feel too confortable about that. It could put strain on its legs and compromise its reliability with time.
No problem, by the time it would give a problem the zero is old or replaced by a better 1.
post #44 of 180
Thread Starter 
removed
post #45 of 180
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asylum years View Post
Headphoneus Superbus.


And paranoiac.
More useful contributions.....

Peete.
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