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Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling - Page 124

post #1846 of 2061
Quote:
Originally Posted by MunkyOne View Post
 

 

I am playing with the idea of a larger case, as I find the existing one too cramped for circuit modding.  After adding a few more components and upgrading others, it's very tight.  So I am considering either a metal chassis, with wood case, or a fully metal case, similart to, but larger then the original.  I also find the front panel a little cramped, with the HP socket so close to the volume knob.  So I may liberate the HP socket and power LED from the PCB, to facilitate using a larger front panel.

 

When you said "to put the LD in a bigger case with my External Power Supply", did you mean that you intend using the amp with a different PSU?  Or do you mean to accommodate both the LD1+ and another power supply in a single case to reduce desk clutter?

Yes i would like to put them together in one case to reduce clutter.The external PS is for the Tube(6SN7 and 12SN7) heaters running my LD 1 and MK III.

I just opened the LD 1 and found out that those wires from the  transformer to PCB are short i think the easy way to do it is Mark and just cut them then resolder with longer wires if needed.it wont be that easy to do this so i have to think it over.

This picture is actually the cleanest if you see it now wires and some other crap on my desk.

post #1847 of 2061
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

If anyone has done this, they haven't posted anything here, so I suspect that you are on your own. It shouldn't be all that hard, I would think, especially if you know what you are doing. However, that leaves me out, because when it comes to electronics, I know just enough to get into trouble, but not enough to get out of trouble! lol

No worries G i'am just like you but i can tell you this what ever i know in this LD stuff i learn it from you and the other guys.I can't Thank you enough for taking your time giving your thoughts to all us.:beerchug:

post #1848 of 2061
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

Yes i would like to put them together in one case to reduce clutter.The external PS is for the Tube(6SN7 and 12SN7) heaters running my LD 1 and MK III.

I just opened the LD 1 and found out that those wires from the  transformer to PCB are short i think the easy way to do it is Mark and just cut them then resolder with longer wires if needed.it wont be that easy to do this so i have to think it over.

This picture is actually the cleanest if you see it now wires and some other crap on my desk.

I see.  That's quite a full desk you have there :-)

 

Yes, the LD1 transformer wires are very short, but if all you are doing is relocating the transformer, it should be fairly easy to do.  As you say, just mark the wires before you cut them.  If you think that you might make further changes later, it may be an idea to make a detatchable cable for the transformer.   The LD1+ is quite tight inside, but it is easy to take apart and reassemble.

 

Have you any ideas about the case you will use?   I still can't decide between wood/metal or just metal.  I am looking at retro hi-fi for inspiration :-)

post #1849 of 2061
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post

Just to remind you  my Q is Modded so it will sound different from  stock.

In what way have you modded your Q's? I've done the bass mod myself & enjoy it (no idea why it isn't done as stock to be honest). Are there other mods? Have you designed something unique?
post #1850 of 2061

Some of us have external sockets for double triodes and we are using an auxiliary power supply for the heaters, as these tubes draw more current than we believe the LD can safely provide, or we want to provide heater voltages in excess of 6.3 volts. This also allows us to use DC current to power the heaters, which tends to be quieter than AC current.

 

And for sure it would be nice to wrap all this stuff into one nice-looking enclosure....

 

 

post #1851 of 2061
Quote:
Originally Posted by MunkyOne View Post
 

I see.  That's quite a full desk you have there :-)

 

Yes, the LD1 transformer wires are very short, but if all you are doing is relocating the transformer, it should be fairly easy to do.  As you say, just mark the wires before you cut them.  If you think that you might make further changes later, it may be an idea to make a detatchable cable for the transformer.   The LD1+ is quite tight inside, but it is easy to take apart and reassemble.

 

Have you any ideas about the case you will use?   I still can't decide between wood/metal or just metal.  I am looking at retro hi-fi for inspiration :-)

 

Aluminum(scrap) and wood or something like this Recycled Electronic case with scrap aluminum for face plate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorrofox View Post


In what way have you modded your Q's? I've done the bass mod myself & enjoy it (no idea why it isn't done as stock to be honest). Are there other mods? Have you designed something unique?

Just the Bass port.

post #1852 of 2061

The only thing that is holding me back from transfering the LD 1 into a bigger case is the Volume pot and the headphone jack.I'am thinking of removing them from the PCB but i'am a bit nervous doing that i might screw it up.It sure would be nice to move everything i have in one case it will look cleaner but it's something that i really need to think about before i start screwing something up.making the case IMO is the easy part but unsoldering the Pot/jack i don't know.

post #1853 of 2061

gibosi,

 

just an FYI the lyr plus 6SN7 or 6CG7 is a nasty thing... Ive tried a few pairs of both that I know sound good...Sylvania 6SN7(button bottom, black and brown) RCA 6SN7 (shortie blacked out) RCA and Raytheon 6CG7... and they all sounded bloated loose and painfully bright... distorted and odd sounding... This experiment is now officially a failure...

post #1854 of 2061

Based on previous postings in the Lyr thread, I am not surprised, but it is too bad.... :(

post #1855 of 2061
I am sad too...
post #1856 of 2061

The volume pot and HP jack socket are straightforward to remove, assuming some experience of soldering.  I use a cheap de-solder tool, which sucks up solder as it is melted by the soldering iron.  Not much can go wrong, as long as you make a careful note of the required new cable connections, required for mounting the pot and jack on the front panel rather than the PCB.

 

I plan to do the same, once I have decided on a suitable case.  Currently considering a retro look, perhaps with wood sides, ala 1970's.

post #1857 of 2061

I changed my mind recasing my Amps instead i will make a new adapter for the tubes it will be on a aluminum plate and hide all the wires/cable inside that adapter case so atleast it will look a little tidy and last night i soldered the wires for the adapter in the back of tube sockets.The case for the tube adapter it will be made out of aluminum plate on top, wood on both sides, aluminum on the front  and a small aluminum plate in the back to hold some connectors.

No more Vector adapters.

 

post #1858 of 2061
Quote:
Originally Posted by MunkyOne View Post
 

The volume pot and HP jack socket are straightforward to remove, assuming some experience of soldering.  I use a cheap de-solder tool, which sucks up solder as it is melted by the soldering iron.  Not much can go wrong, as long as you make a careful note of the required new cable connections, required for mounting the pot and jack on the front panel rather than the PCB.

 

I plan to do the same, once I have decided on a suitable case.  Currently considering a retro look, perhaps with wood sides, ala 1970's.

I'm worried about overheating the PCB and melt those contacts/trace.

post #1859 of 2061
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

I'm worried about overheating the PCB and melt those contacts/trace.

When soldering electronics, I use a 14w soldering iron, which minimises the risk of overheating the components.  On my LD1+ PCB (v3.0), the HP jack and volume pot soldered connections are far enough away from the most heat-sensitive components for a 14w soldering iron to be quite safe.  If I am in any doubt, I use a pair of pliers as a heat sink to protect the nearest component along the track I am soldering on.  I have recently added a few extra components to the underside of my LD1+ PCB, without any problems.  I just observe a rule of minimum contact with the soldering iron.

 

I do recommend using a low-wattage soldering iron, rather than a general purpose one, for all electronic circuit soldering.

post #1860 of 2061

This is a good idea.  Post a pic when your'e done :-)

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