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Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling - Page 112

post #1666 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

 

The thing with cutting a door underneath is the  J1 is actualy just past the front left foot of the unit so you need to cut flush to the edge of the front foot not a bad idea though.

To me it's not the head of the screws being stripped it's the thread but if you can find a screws that have a rough thread it's better and if you look at the bottom piece you dont have much room for a bigger screws.To do it properly you need to drill a slightly smaller hole than the screws you are using then you need to TAP it and you need to counter sink the face plate or you can use a self tapping screws or you can use a wood screw/sheet metal screw without drilling and tapping that should work but finding a small screws that will fit in that spot is not that easy.


I have just opened mine up again, and as you say, J1 is close to the foot.  However, on mine it is not quite as close as you describe (I measured it with the base inserted upside-down) , so perhaps there are some slight variations between batches?  I have about 2-3mm to spare between J1 and the foot.  If the hinged panel opened from the front - backwards, with a single retaining screw at the front-centre, it may just work.  When I have tome time, I will try it :-)

post #1667 of 1864

Hello, all... Got my LD 1+ today... It came with the standard 6J1 tubes... I opened up the unit carefully to make sure it was jumpered / switched for that tube, and it was, predictably... I do have a pair of WE 408 A tubes on the way... They should even be here later, or tomorrow at the latest...

 

I will say a few things so far: I have the unit burning in with a CD playing on 'repeat all'... No problem with heat... That's nominal... There is a bit of hum I'm hoping will go away as the tubes burn in... I'll probably roll the WE 408A's in later today... Also, not particularly good sounding yet... But I have enough experience with tube gear to not expect too much out of the box...

 

The instruction manual is a little vague as far as the pictorial is concerned... I'm finding myself looking at the circuit board with a magnifying glass to determine just what's going on in there...

 

I think I'm getting the hang of it, though...  It sure would help having a large photo of the circuit board with all the details nice and crisp to look at... Can anyone point me to that on this forum?...

 

I do want to congratulate Amazon.com for the best price and no shipping... It took all of three days to get here!...

 

That was $116.00, no shipping, and three day delivery via DHL... They even called me on the phone to say that it would be delivered today... Note: No affiliation with Amazon.com, DHL, or Little Dot...  

post #1668 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by signet02 View Post
 

I think I'm getting the hang of it, though...  It sure would help having a large photo of the circuit board with all the details nice and crisp to look at... Can anyone point me to that on this forum?...

 

This is the only picture I am aware of (from the LD site):

 

http://littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=819&sid=2ab5e576ada03c21cd7e7b585f12666b

post #1669 of 1864

Thanks... If my mind doesn't deceive me, I think there's a slightly different layout on mine... It seems to me that I saw a moveable center-tapped jumper that takes the place of the two switches to go to WE 408 A or back... Have to check it again... Oh, no more hum after a few hours break-in... Dead quiet... Thanks again...

post #1670 of 1864

The FS board isn't really bringing me all that much luck: Anyone here have any tubes they might want to sell me? One of my tubes started making a really loud cracking sound, so I figure it's about time they got replaced!

post #1671 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukuk View Post
 

The FS board isn't really bringing me all that much luck: Anyone here have any tubes they might want to sell me? One of my tubes started making a really loud cracking sound, so I figure it's about time they got replaced!

I have a few, I'll let you know tomorrow what stock fitting tubes I have plus cost.

post #1672 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukuk View Post
 

The FS board isn't really bringing me all that much luck: Anyone here have any tubes they might want to sell me? One of my tubes started making a really loud cracking sound, so I figure it's about time they got replaced!

BAM!

 

From left to right

 

3 Sylvania 6DT6A (2 have a soldered 1-7 strap)
2 Ediswan EH90
2 Voskhod 6ZH1P
2 Svetlana 6A2P
2 GE 6DT6
2 RCA 6DT6A (soldered 1-7 strap)
2 GE 6AV6 modded and taped
2 Siemens 6AK5w
2 Sylvania 6HM5
3 Valvo EH90 (1 has a slight hum)

 

 

 

5 RCA 5915's I got from Jay awhile back and never used.

 

 

All that! The ultimate starter kit lol

 

This includes the 6HM5, 6AV6 and 6DT6 that were probably the best sounding stock compatible tubes... I'm on to 6DJ8's and soon to be rolling octals so I'm done with these little guys... PM me for price.


Edited by kvtaco17 - 1/15/14 at 1:10pm
post #1673 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

This is the only picture I am aware of (from the LD site):

 

http://littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=819&sid=2ab5e576ada03c21cd7e7b585f12666b

 

Warning: In the above photo of inside of unit, J5 and J6 are actually J1 and J2 [according to manual] !... The photo shows set-up for using the WE 408A... Also, the pictorial in the manual is a bit off... When switching from 6J1 to We 408A, all you need to do is change the switches to the 408A side... And of course, install your favorite op-amp... The pin-out on the op-amp should allow only one way to correctly install the op-amp, as you have two thinner pins on only one side...

 

If anyone has a refutation of this, please advise!...

post #1674 of 1864

Some LD 1+ have switches (the older ones) and some have computer jumpers (the newer ones). Otherwise, everything is essentially the same.

 

However, I have no idea what you mean regarding opamps having "two thinner pins on only one side." All that is necessary is to match the circular indentation (or notch on some opamps) to the notch on the socket to ensure proper alignment. Below is a MUSES01 opamp with a circular indentation. In the picture on the LD website, you can see a notch on the stock opamp.

 

post #1675 of 1864

OK, thanks... Good to know... I thought I'd seen something other than two switches during my brief look-see inside the unit... But at the onset, all was not clear... The J5 and J6 jumper designation in the pic threw me off though... There were only 4 jumpers visible... And only 4 referred to in the manual...

post #1676 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by kvtaco17 View Post
 

BAM!

 

From left to right

 

3 Sylvania 6DT6A (2 have a soldered 1-7 strap)
2 Ediswan EH90
2 Voskhod 6ZH1P
2 Svetlana 6A2P
2 GE 6DT6
2 RCA 6DT6A (soldered 1-7 strap)
2 GE 6AV6 modded and taped
2 Siemens 6AK5w
2 Sylvania 6HM5
3 Valvo EH90 (1 has a slight hum)

 

 

 

5 RCA 5915's I got from Jay awhile back and never used.

 

 

All that! The ultimate starter kit lol

 

This includes the 6HM5, 6AV6 and 6DT6 that were probably the best sounding stock compatible tubes... I'm on to 6DJ8's and soon to be rolling octals so I'm done with these little guys... PM me for price.

 

Heh, thanks, but I was able to get a seller lined up!

post #1677 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by signet02 View Post
 

 

Warning: In the above photo of inside of unit, J5 and J6 are actually J1 and J2 [according to manual] !... The photo shows set-up for using the WE 408A... Also, the pictorial in the manual is a bit off... When switching from 6J1 to We 408A, all you need to do is change the switches to the 408A side... And of course, install your favorite op-amp... The pin-out on the op-amp should allow only one way to correctly install the op-amp, as you have two thinner pins on only one side...

 

If anyone has a refutation of this, please advise!...

Yes, it seems that LD site is not maintained fully updated.   If it is of any help to those of you who may have a version 3, here is a picture of my LD1+ V3.0 board.  The jumpers etc. are fairly clear.

 

post #1678 of 1864

Munky: Thanks for that... It makes the whole thing a lot clearer to me now... In place of the switches, it looks like a center-tapped arrangement where you just lift the jumpers, and shift them to the opposite side, the center pin being the feeder, right?... And of course, J1 and J2 are properly marked, and are left open for the WE 408A...

post #1679 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukuk View Post
 

 

Heh, thanks, but I was able to get a seller lined up!

cool cool.

post #1680 of 1864
Quote:
Originally Posted by signet02 View Post
 

Munky: Thanks for that... It makes the whole thing a lot clearer to me now... In place of the switches, it looks like a center-tapped arrangement where you just lift the jumpers, and shift them to the opposite side, the center pin being the feeder, right?... And of course, J1 and J2 are properly marked, and are left open for the WE 408A...

 

You are most welcome signet02.

 

Yes, you are correct.  J1 and J2 open for EF95 tube family (20v heaters).   K1 and K2 jumpers connectting the L/H two pins, marked '408A' on the board.  J3 & 4 open (3x gain) or closed (7x gain) depending on whether you need high or low gain (high or low impedance headphones).

 

:-)

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