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Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling - Page 2

post #16 of 1976
Could different 408A tubes other than the WE ones sound different? I found Westinghouse and Philips ones on eBay.
post #17 of 1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by taso89 View Post
Could different 408A tubes other than the WE ones sound different? I found Westinghouse and Philips ones on eBay.
Definitely! That's what this thread is here for.

Looks like Yen Audio has some Sylvania Gold 408A's listed... those should be good.
post #18 of 1976
Thread Starter 
I updated the first post with a few pictures of the tubes I have.

Is anyone interested in doing a little tube swapping? Often you can not get simple pairs, so I have a few tubes I can trade.

I am sure that others have different tubes / brands that they can spare as well.

What do you say?
post #19 of 1976
Guys, please tell me about the maintenance of tubes before I buy this hybrid amp. How long is the useful life of tubes, do they burn out after some period of time? Does their quality reduce after a while?
post #20 of 1976
Thread Starter 
Ironmine,

all electric parts deteriorate with time, the capacitors die after so many years etc.

As for tubes, they have a certain life expectancy of a few thousand hours.

The tubes we use in the LD1+ have a usage rating of up to 10.000 hours.

You will probably upgrade your equipment many times over before you burn out a set of tubes.
post #21 of 1976
I think I'm gonna go ahead and try this amp, any clue what might be good tubes to pair with W1000? Right now, I'm thinking I'll go with the basic and pick up some tubes (the higher end ones) on eBay.
post #22 of 1976
Just throwing it out there, here's a couple of 408A rolling options:

https://www.tubeworld.com/400a723a.htm#_self

I don't know what benefit you will get from cryo treatment but these are still cheaper than the $50 extra you'd pay for getting WE408A tubes to begin with. I wanna try out the Northern Electric and LM Ericsson Sweden NOS 408A's
post #23 of 1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by mapstec View Post
Ironmine,

all electric parts deteriorate with time, the capacitors die after so many years etc.

As for tubes, they have a certain life expectancy of a few thousand hours.

<snip>
So,

Would this then mean I would best turn my tube amp off when not actively listening, rather than my currrent operating mode of leaving all my SS electronics on 24/7 unless not being used for an extended period of time?

I currently only have SS equipment but am thinking of taking the plunge into tubes.

[Hope I'm not taking the thread off topic]
post #24 of 1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by StratCat View Post
So,

Would this then mean I would best turn my tube amp off when not actively listening, rather than my currrent operating mode of leaving all my SS electronics on 24/7 unless not being used for an extended period of time?

I currently only have SS equipment but am thinking of taking the plunge into tubes.

[Hope I'm not taking the thread off topic]

Many different answers. I'll let mine run continuously (burning in tubes, amp etc), however, if I'm stepping out for a long period of time (work), I shut them down.

Some run them 24 hours with no problems. For Little Dot the manual states 8 hours continuously then cool for one. I guess it all depends what your needs would be.
post #25 of 1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeatFan12 View Post
Many different answers. I'll let mine run continuously (burning in tubes, amp etc), however, if I'm stepping out for a long period of time (work), I shut them down.

Some run them 24 hours with no problems. For Little Dot the manual states 8 hours continuously then cool for one. I guess it all depends what your needs would be.
Thx.

Yeah, I think if I go tubes I'll likely something similar to what your doing. With my SS non-mechanical gear I never really ever shut down unless I don't intend to use a specific unit for, oh, a week or three, or more.

I really dislike thermal cycling SS on a regular basis unless required.
post #26 of 1976
Adding a little quesion in the tread.How would this amp be with k271s? you think i should get this or th dv 336se? ordering very soon so replies would be great. Thanx
post #27 of 1976
Eh.. So I was gonna swap the opamp, one of the chassis screws was tight and I stripped it. I was using a regular Phillips screwdriver.

If you're going to open this thing up, be careful with the amount of force you use as these screws are made of some very soft alloy or something. I don't know if there's anything I can do now, the other three screws came off without a problem.

EDIT: I was sort of able to get around the one screw being attached. I have LT1364 in place right now, and I think I like it better already I'll listen some more and post impressions along with LT1469 and LM4562 later.
post #28 of 1976
Gosh i forgot what they are called but there are these things that can remove screws like this that are stripped.They have them at your local hardware store.The name eludes me but ask them and they will know.You use a drill and out it in reverse.
post #29 of 1976
I have a pair of Sylvania Gold Brand 408A's on the way but for anyone who has a LT1364: put it in. Enjoy.

I feel that this opamp has improved definition across the spectrum; I felt that the stock opamp sounded very digital for a hybrid tube amp. Most of all, I felt a kind of 'veil' over the midrange with the stock opamp, especially in the upper midrange. The LT1364 took care of that. I can't wait to try LT1469, LM4562 and OPA627!

EDIT: Now swapped in LT1469 and LM4562.

LT1469 - I think it sounded similar to stock opamp. It's somewhere in between LT1364 and stock.

LM4562 - Worse than stock! The midrange is just.. gone =\

LT1364 is staying for now, I can't wait to try OPA627! Wish I could put an HDAM in this thing
post #30 of 1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabe Logan View Post
Gosh i forgot what they are called but there are these things that can remove screws like this that are stripped.They have them at your local hardware store.The name eludes me but ask them and they will know.You use a drill and out it in reverse.
"Easy Out"

I haven't seen the screw in question personally, since I don't have one of these amps yet, but smaller screws equivalent to the American 6, 8, or 10's can often be removed by simply drilling them out with a regular drill bit.
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