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y1 gamma-1 DAC - Page 7

post #91 of 1535
11/25/08 at 1:34pm
To me, the USB lite gamma1 sounds much better than my Glass Jar Audio AlienDAC kit. It seems to have more resolution and pace. Very natural sound with great detail. Being through-hole, I also found it easier to build.
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post #92 of 1535
11/25/08 at 1:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by n_maher View Post
I'm happy to report that the y1 sounds quite good.



I currently have it at work feeding my Millett Starving Student Amp.
n_maher - thanks for the picture... AND a BIG THANKS for all your helpful and insightful comments on this and other diy forums.

Question for you: where did you get the silver front/back plates for your Mini³???... (AMB's are only black.)

(Sorry for the slight thread derailment!)

Regards,
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post #93 of 1535
11/25/08 at 1:50pm
That mini3 is from Rockhopper Audio. That's thrice's custom faceplate I think.
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post #94 of 1535
11/25/08 at 3:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NelsonVandal View Post
Yes, but how good? Has anyone compared it to other DACs?
I haven't done much exhaustive listening compared to anything other than the a little USB only dac that I have at work. I far and away prefer the y1 to it, but even the parts cost of the y1 exceeds the cost of the dac I was using so it's not much of a useful comparison. I will be bringing the y1 to the upcoming NYC meet and will probably allow for it to be taken around and tried in different rigs.
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post #95 of 1535
11/25/08 at 3:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandbasser View Post
n_maher - thanks for the picture... AND a BIG THANKS for all your helpful and insightful comments on this and other diy forums.
You're quite welcome, although how much insight I provide is probably up for debate.

Quote:
Question for you: where did you get the silver front/back plates for your Mini³???... (AMB's are only black.)
LK is correct, I had my penguin buddy thrice build this mini³ for me and the face plates are exclusive to his amps.

The combo sounds quite good together and makes for a heck of a powerful yet tiny package. And just to get folks wound up he are two more glory shots for the thread with the custom mini-mini that I built for the stack.




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post #96 of 1535
11/25/08 at 4:01pm
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post #97 of 1535
11/25/08 at 4:13pm
Look really neat.
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post #98 of 1535
11/26/08 at 1:31am
Ok, I have been reading through this post and I have decided if the boards come in time I am going to do this over christmas break. Have some questions though. Is it possible to get it to run off of the power source of the mini³ in any way. If it could run off of the battery that would be great. I plan to have them in the same enclosure and I would like to reduce the power inputs.
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post #99 of 1535
11/26/08 at 1:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Listen2this1 View Post
Have some questions though. Is it possible to get it to run off of the power source of the mini³ in any way. If it could run off of the battery that would be great. I plan to have them in the same enclosure and I would like to reduce the power inputs.
The easiest way is just to use the usb power.
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post #100 of 1535
11/26/08 at 3:13am
I've messed around a bit with battery power for the Y1.

I believe Ti wrote that the full Y1 config consumes something like 70-90 mA. I don't think there's a 9V-format rechargable that would work very well for that.

I have successfully powered the Y1 for a few hours with a combination of a six-AA NiMH pack and a 5V voltage regulator I got from partsconnexion.com (the regulator's own web page is at NewClassD UWB Regulator ). But this is a pretty clumsy setup - as folks have pointed out, USB power is much more convenient.

Still pursuing the dream of an ever more audiophile-pleasing and convenient portable rig...
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post #101 of 1535
11/26/08 at 3:14am
1. The Hammond 1455C80x case can't accommodate both a Mini³ and a γ1 at the same time.

2. γ1 requires a 5V regulated DC power source, and you can't derive that from a Mini³ without additional circuitry.

3. You'd need to deal with the issue of resolving γ1's "real" ground vs. Mini³'s virtual ground if they shared a common power source. Mini³'s TLE2426 rail splitter chip cannot sink all of γ1's current draw.

4. γ1 draws a fair amount of current (anywhere from ~50mA to ~90mA depending on configuration and operating condition) so you really won't want to use Mini³'s battery power even if you were able to solve all the above problems.
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post #102 of 1535
11/26/08 at 6:16pm
Well I am going to need multiple cables for power. Here is a pic of my goal.


The far right will be a Mini3 that will be missing the in and out on the front panel. The in and outs will be routed into a the case in the middle. This case will also on the front have a 1/4 inch plug. On the left there will be a y1 the only thing on the front of it will be the switch. The out of the y1 will be routed to the middle case where it will have RCA outputs. The back of the middle case will also have a 1/8 inch input. That will also be the switch for the mini3. So if the 1/8th has somesting plugged in that signal will be routed to the mini3. When the cable is removed the signal from the y1 will be routed to the mini3. I am wanting to make this a desktop system that has some other uses.

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post #103 of 1535
11/27/08 at 1:50am
That's a cool concept. Since you will have an extra enclosure in the middle, you could build yourself two power supplies in it, one (15-24VDC) for the Mini³ and the other (5V regulated) for the γ1. Make sure that the Mini³ supply is isolated from the case.
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post #104 of 1535
11/27/08 at 8:10am
In anticipation of the upcoming release of the γ1 mini DAC, a precision-milled front/rear panel set group buy interest check is now underway at the Headwize Marketplace. Have a look.

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post #105 of 1535
12/5/08 at 5:44am
Is optical out an option on the gamma-1?
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