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y1 gamma-1 DAC - Page 57

post #841 of 1537
8/28/09 at 4:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by luvdunhill View Post
FWIW, I talked to FPE and their profiles are not conductive. I'm not sure I have a file that will fit the groove, so I'll have to hunt around for one when the time comes. Perhaps a PCB and some sandpaper would also work..
Go to walmart, target, drug store, etc and go to where they have nail products and look for a metal nail file. They are cheap and thin enough to fit in the rails. The emery board style nail files just take too long, but the metal ones work well.
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post #842 of 1537
8/28/09 at 6:22pm
I clipped one of the rails (the one with the screw) with a nail clipper and I planned on soldering a piece of wire to it. though I don't know if the solder will stick to the aluminum...

Edit: This may be a bad idea for full y1, since it's cramped in there. I'm only doing this since I have space in my Hammond case and built a USB->SPDIF y1.
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post #843 of 1537
8/28/09 at 6:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyFalcon View Post
I clipped one of the rails (the one with the screw) with a nail clipper and I planned on soldering a piece of wire to it. though I don't know if the solder will stick to the aluminum...
Note solder is not much of a physical connection and most likely not hold.
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post #844 of 1537
8/28/09 at 7:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by m1abrams View Post
Note solder is not much of a physical connection and most likely not hold.
I am not sure whether solder will bond to aluminum or not. Even if it will, it is very hard to get a good solder bond on a piece of metal that large because it is difficult to get the surface hot enough for the solder to bond properly. You end up with a ball of solder on the surface rather than the "volcano" shape in which the solder wicks out.

With that said, the physical connection the solder makes is what holds almost every component on the board. If he can get a proper solder bond (maybe, maybe not), why would it hold any less than anywhere else in the DAC?
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post #845 of 1537
8/28/09 at 7:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnewman View Post
I am not sure whether solder will bond to aluminum or not. Even if it will, it is very hard to get a good solder bond on a piece of metal that large because it is difficult to get the surface hot enough for the solder to bond properly. You end up with a ball of solder on the surface rather than the "volcano" shape in which the solder wicks out.

With that said, the physical connection the solder makes is what holds almost every component on the board. If he can get a proper solder bond (maybe, maybe not), why would it hold any less than anywhere else in the DAC?
Not a single place on the board where you have solder is the pure solder part expected to withstand much force. Even the jacks solder points are designed where the solder provides little force, it is more the post and the fact that the solder filled the whole. Take 2 wires that are soldered together without twisting them together, it takes little effort to separate them.
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post #846 of 1537
8/28/09 at 8:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by m1abrams View Post
Not a single place on the board where you have solder is the pure solder part expected to withstand much force. Even the jacks solder points are designed where the solder provides little force, it is more the post and the fact that the solder filled the whole. Take 2 wires that are soldered together without twisting them together, it takes little effort to separate them.
A grounding wire between the board and case wouldn't exactly be expected to take a lot of force... have you ever looked inside a point-to-point tube amp?
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post #847 of 1537
8/30/09 at 2:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnewman View Post
Are the pins bent until they are touching, or is there a solder bridge? If there's a solder bridge, just put some flux on it and press solder wick between the pins with the tip of your iron.

If the pins are bent, you'll have a lot more trouble because you can't bend them back while they are still soldered to the pads - I bent a pin on the power switching chip but was able to flow the solder and bend it back with a very fine iron tip. This may or may not be the right thing to do, so you may want to wait for someone with more experience.
i think i spent 1 hr x2 on 2 separate occasions ohming the the y-1 DAC only board before first power-up. it's a centipede of diffuculty with the schematic and datasheets for pin-out at hand.
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post #848 of 1537
9/7/09 at 11:49pm
i have some 47uf black gates (non polar) laying around, would they make a difference in c24d/c25d or should i save them for a rainy day? and if they would make a difference, should i take out the bypass caps?
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post #849 of 1537
9/8/09 at 1:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pistolsnipe View Post
i have some 47uf black gates (non polar) laying around, would they make a difference in c24d/c25d or should i save them for a rainy day? and if they would make a difference, should i take out the bypass caps?
As long as they are 6.3mm diameter, 2mm or 2.5mm lead pitch and no more than 11mm tall, then you can use them. If these are Black Gate NX Hi-Q, they are listed in the recommended parts list. As for whether these are "better" than any of the others in the recommended list, or if the Wima bypass caps should be used, it's up to individual preference.
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post #850 of 1537
9/8/09 at 8:00pm
Another one lives! A ++ waiting patiently for it's y2 mate!!
It sounds wonderful, and was a real joy to build, passed the initial check and fired up flawlessly. Thank you AMB.
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post #851 of 1537
9/9/09 at 1:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billyk View Post
Another one lives! A ++ waiting patiently for it's y2 mate!!
It sounds wonderful, and was a real joy to build, passed the initial check and fired up flawlessly. Thank you AMB.
Cool!

Btw, for those of you who are looking to upgrade a γ1 full++ to a γ2 (Box Enclosures B2-080 case), please do not make the front and rear panels yet. The panel hole locations documented on the γ1 website for the full++ configuration works only for γ1 full++. When you add a γ2 board, not only would you need to add more holes for the extra connectors, the board "sandwich" will sit in the case just ever so slightly lower in the slots, so all the holes need to be moved down to match. I am preparing the γ2 website at the moment, which will have new dimensional drawings for the γ2 panels.
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post #852 of 1537
9/9/09 at 1:58am
How much is this, again?
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post #853 of 1537
9/9/09 at 5:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by amb View Post
Cool!

Btw, for those of you who are looking to upgrade a γ1 full++ to a γ2 (Box Enclosures B2-080 case). I am preparing the γ2 website at the moment, which will have new dimensional drawings for the γ2 panels.
Excellent! just in time, my γ1(γ2 to be) is sitting waiting for me to do something about its poor faceless Box B2. can you tell us if there are near-term plans for γ2 ready-made panels?

Thanks!

-Serge
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post #854 of 1537
9/9/09 at 11:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sergery View Post
can you tell us if there are near-term plans for γ2 ready-made panels?
Yes, I will offer panel sets for the γ2 + γ1 full++ configuration in black only. Their ETA is about 2 weeks from now.
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post #855 of 1537
9/9/09 at 11:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by amb View Post
Yes, I will offer panel sets for the γ2 + γ1 full++ configuration in black only. Their ETA is about 2 weeks from now.
only black? maybe silver aswell...
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