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y1 gamma-1 DAC - Page 96

post #1426 of 1537

Ok, fine. I'll buy the nifty led switch. I've already gone over budget, might as well go all the way .

 

This build looks pretty straight-forward except for the smd soldering, however I am watching the tutorial videos now.

 

Thanks for your help amb.


Edited by BobSaysHi - 10/11/10 at 3:31pm
post #1427 of 1537

If you plan to upgrade to the y2 then it would be better if you purchase the y2 board as well to connect the USB and DAC portions of your y1 board. Of course you obviously need to install the necessary receptacles on the y2 board. 

post #1428 of 1537

I'm planning on upgrading in like 8 months. If I jump straight into building the y2, then I wouldn't appreciate the jump in quality. I haven't even gotten my amp yet, I've been plagued by DIY difficulties. I'm planning to just listen to my amp for a month and really understand the quality jump. Then I am going to purchase the parts for the y1. I'm not even sure the quality of my headphones, dt880 250 ohms, could warrant the cost of an upgraded dac, especially when I haven't heard one dac to compare to my motherboard out. I'd like to upgrade my system in 100 dollar bursts, and I am already spending 90% of my high school mowing money on audio. I don't even have enough money to purchase the parts for the y1, and I really don't have the money for a y2. I hope this helps.


Edited by BobSaysHi - 10/12/10 at 10:40am
post #1429 of 1537

K3cT's point actually was not to go and build the y2, but rather simply buy the y2 board while you're already ordering from AMB and use it as the y1's bridge.  The y1 boards have to mated together in some way anyways.  In a typical y1 only build, you either do that by breaking the y1 boards apart and putting them together with the receptacles or leaving them together and using some sort of ribbon cable (often on the backside).  If you're going to be upgrading to a y2 anyways down the road, you might as well just use the y2 board as the bridge (basically just involves soldering only the 3- and 5-pin headers/receptacles on the y2 board and putting the y1 and y2 boards together.  Make sure to double check you have the headers and receptacles in the right spots on the y2 board respective to how you put them on the y1 board before soldering.  I found out the hard way).


Edited by WC Annihilus - 10/13/10 at 12:17am
post #1430 of 1537

Hi, I have a question regarding how to place the transformers on the gamma1 boards. I've used two murata DA101C . Here is a schematic since I don't have a camera:

 

schematic.png

post #1431 of 1537

Correct-o. 

post #1432 of 1537

The external power supply for y1 is 5VDC,300mA according to the AMB.if i use the handphone charger which is 5V 350mA,it will spoil the y1? If

 

extra currentuse in the y1 will have what effect?will spoil it? But for me,now i use the USB as power supply for my y1,but i check the current of

 

the USB just 100mA, it is enough current supply y1?

post #1433 of 1537

Current rating indicates the maximum amount of current that the power supply can provide, it will not force any more current than the y1 will draw. Your cellphone charger will work for the y1, though of course a linear regulated supply will have less noise.

 

How did you measure the current draw of the y1?


Edited by Nebby - 11/3/10 at 7:34am
post #1434 of 1537
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebby View Post

Current rating indicates the maximum amount of current that the power supply can provide, it will not force any more current than the y1 will draw. Your cellphone charger will work for the y1, though of course a linear regulated supply will have less noise.

 

How did you measure the current draw of the y1?


i just check the USB supply from my laptop, it shown 100mA,now my problem is when i used the USB as power supply SPDIF  as the data,the y1 sometime will not so "stable" output the signal,when i press the next button of my player,the signal will break a while,the LED turn from green to red then turn back to green, because my amp using e12 protection board,so it always sounded "ti-ta ti-ta".sometime i not change the song,when playing the song also will happen "ti-ta ti-ta" sound interupted.this kind of problem is caused by the power supply?

post #1435 of 1537

Try using your handphone charger to power it.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by yhong26 View Post

i just check the USB supply from my laptop, it shown 100mA,now my problem is when i used the USB as power supply SPDIF  as the data,the y1 sometime will not so "stable" output the signal,when i press the next button of my player,the signal will break a while,the LED turn from green to red then turn back to green, because my amp using e12 protection board,so it always sounded "ti-ta ti-ta".sometime i not change the song,when playing the song also will happen "ti-ta ti-ta" sound interupted.this kind of problem is caused by the power supply?

post #1436 of 1537
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebby View Post

Try using your handphone charger to power it.
 


 


but the current more than 300mA is not a problem?my charger label there 350mA.

post #1437 of 1537

To quote myself with some rewording:
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebby View Post

Current rating indicates the maximum amount of current that the power supply can provide, it will not force any more current than the y1 will draw and will work for the y1, though of course a linear regulated supply will have less noise.

 

How did you measure the current draw of the y1?

post #1438 of 1537

thks a lot...

i will try it tomorrow...


Edited by yhong26 - 11/3/10 at 10:39am
post #1439 of 1537

hi,anybody are the y1 owner?may your y1 change the LED color from green to red,then turn back to green when you press the next button of your PC player?

post #1440 of 1537
Quote:
Originally Posted by yhong26 View Post

hi,anybody are the y1 owner?may your y1 change the LED color from green to red,then turn back to green when you press the next button of your PC player?


Quite possible.  This depends on the player software.

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