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Recabling Denon AH-D1001 (&D1000) - Page 6

post #76 of 84


Originally Posted by playmate View Post

Would it be possible to use a quality minijack to phono cable for this mod?


You can make one with the same silver-plated copper wire from Navships...

post #77 of 84

Hi there guyss

Sorry to be reopening this thread but hey it´s better than to create

a new one right?

Anyway i want to buy a a pair  of these cans but i want to have the replacement cable

lying around when they get here.

Where can i pick up cheap headphone cables in Europe and where did you pick up yours?

Greets John

post #78 of 84


I dind´t want to ship the cable  from Markertek,

since i live on portugal and sont want to pay too much

on shiping fees 

post #79 of 84
Originally Posted by NewVegasBaby View Post

Hi there guyss

Sorry to be reopening this thread but hey it´s better than to create

a new one right?

Anyway i want to buy a a pair  of these cans but i want to have the replacement cable

lying around when they get here.

Where can i pick up cheap headphone cables in Europe and where did you pick up yours?

Greets John

+1 where to buy in EU, Mogami Mini Quad 2893 , with cheap  shiping fees ?


Edited by pack21 - 1/5/12 at 3:31pm
post #80 of 84

+1: beware of Canare plugs. Mine, a biggish F-12, had its plug tips bend after about a half-year of portable use on the AH-D1000. Then the soldering came apart. Ended up soldering and inserting a NYS231B into the plug's body, padded with some masking tape.

post #81 of 84

You can buy mogami 2893 wire, the Switchcraft plug and  heat shrink tubings from: http://www.canford.co.uk   or    http://www.redco.com/   both located in UK.



When you say various sizes of heat shrink tubing...what from this website¿?





Edited by Ibai - 8/2/14 at 5:32pm
post #82 of 84

Plz help me with heat shrink tubings from  http://www.canford.co.uk/Search?q=heat+shrink+tubing



Edited by Ibai - 8/3/14 at 1:04am
post #83 of 84

Ah well, looks like a number of us are late in the thread :) All good really, as it's taken me ages to get around to making this mod happen to my AH-D1000s and now the job is done. And what a terrific difference it makes for the better! The original Denon cables had an 'accident' when caught up in a bag, breaking the earth link in the right channel, hence the great opportunity to recable! 

 We don't seem to have Dynamat around this part of OZ, but we do have Q-Mat, pretty much the same thing and does exactly the same job. I was unable to find the Mogami cable at first, so used some larger guage microphone cable in a local store, a bit big though everything fit together well enough. The 'Q-Matting' was fiddly if not that difficult, very sticky! The much deader sounding headphone capsules tell me that it's doing the job, even if the cans are a bit heavier now. No problem really, as they're still pretty comfortable, if not in the same league as my much newer Sony MDR-1Rs. With the first lot of cable the Denons became slamming beasts in the bass dept! Indeed, they were less bloomy than the original cables - though a touch grainy for a few days. However, bass detail and sheer punch was something else, Keith Moon's drumming on The Who-Live In Leeds had terrific speed and weight, really quite thrilling. However, when it came to full and deep electronic bass as in Eminem's duet with Nate Dog in Shake That, off Curtain Call (subject matter aside, it's a good test for chest-rattling bass punch!), it was a bit much, too OTT and if ears could vomit mine almost did :) Fortunately, I managed to source some Mogami 2893 and so I bought enough to recable my beloved old Sennheiser HD540 References as well. Slimmer, lighter, more flexible and nicer to work with than my first re-cable job, the Mogami turns out to be amazingly good stuff and well worth the effort. I also thinned out the small amount of stuffing I put in the capsules the first time, really just a modest whip of stuffing now.

The Mogami'd Denons now have some 8-10 hours only so far, yet have already lost the small new-cable amount of grain in the mids and the bass is very smooth and even right down into the nether regions, quite remarkably so. No frequency seems to stand out over any other and there is a silent darkness around the music as if nothing is being added. As it happens, I have the Beethoven Piano Concerto No2 playing at the moment, the first classical music I've played through the modded cans and I must say that the silence around the notes is impressive, almost uncannily so for headphones. An audience member coughing happens in dark space very separate from the piano and orchestra. Meanwhile, back to The Who in Leeds and the concert is just a sensation! Imaging of the band members and the audience in 3D space - well, as much as the Denons can manage -  is almost pinpoint and Keith's drumming is a more balanced performance with blazing speed and for the most part wicked timing, the tonal sounds of his drum kit easy to hear. The Denons are not as open as the Sony MDR-1Rs, though they ARE more even now in their tonal balance and highly compressed music, say Arcade Fire's otherwise excellent album Funeral, Duffy's Rockferry, anything from Muse, Adele's 21 and many more are now much easier to tolerate. Compressed vocals sound so while still remaining listenable and more intelligible. Drums have excellent tonal qualities, tight and focused yet haven't lost the Denon warmth altogether, these will never be mistaken for AKGs! What I've always loved about all of the Denon range, from the D1000s to the 7000s is the organic and warm nature and the seeming inability to overload easily in the midrange.

 I will remove the stuffing over the next few days and see if I prefer the result, though for now they are very smooth indeed, with a really fine unexaggerated treble. So, warm, smooth, punchy and clean and remarkably refined now for the low cost, all I need now is a new set of ear pads, as the black covering is coming off them, probably due to the humidity of the Queensland summer.

 This is a brilliant mod for these cans, I love 'em even more now and can't wait to try this cable mod on the Senn HD540s!


P.S.  Where I am finding even more amazement with these cans now is with really good recordings! Dire Straits first album is incredibly clean and open, the opening guitar and cymbal crashes play quietly in deep blackness, so focused I am mesmerised listening to the tiniest sounds, waiting for the next movements literally with bated breath, hearing right into the recording. Keb Mo's Slow Down is brilliant, with it's punchy deep bass and clean dynamic vocals, open and natural. The modded Denons so easily share with you the nature of the recording.

 Mind you, I am also using nearly $1000 worth of cables and DAC ahead of the headphone amp I'm using, which on it's own cost me only about $70 all up to build :) There is another thread with the "$25 headphone amp" thereabouts and I built two of them, one with the best parts I have here, including Black Gate caps and top class AD825 Op amp, which is another whole story. However, the amp is worth the effort with the DAC (MusicStreamer II+) and cables (pure silver from Slinklinks) and so are the Denons! Great stuff, many thanks to the modders, Markl and Bostonears who prompted this excellent little upgrade!

Edited by sennsay - 12/4/14 at 2:20am
post #84 of 84

Thanks for the very thoughtful walk-through on this!  I came across this post when I was rewiring mine due to incessant problems with the jack itself. The 30AWG wire (it actually fits with plenty of room in my wire gauge, so thinking it may even be smaller) was a bit of a hassle to work with. That they enamel the wire doesn't make it any easier (quite alot of prep to make a good solder: burn -> clean -> sand -> clean -> sometimes burn again -> ugh).  It was far more worth it to recable. 


Now someone will probably punch me for this, but I thought I'd experiment with 2 strands of mogami 2552 and compare against a pretty standard 18AWG RCA brand speaker cable (the clear pvc covered non-shielded stuff). Now with the 2552, you have shielding and 2 wires:


I performed 2 experiments with this:

 -- twisted the shielding together with the negative R and L and soldered to the jack sleeve.

 -- terminated the shielding on both ends - not connected to anything.


On the other end, I merely wired R and L (+)/(-) respectively and terminated the shielding on the headphone end. There are some rumors that this would act as an 'RF catcher/filter', though theoretically, it *should* act more like an antenna (I would expect to hear some sort of RF sound bleed through).  The sound was far different from the Denon stock wire. I was quite surprised. The high-highs (10-16+kHz) were more present and the lows (70-100Hz) felt more present as I think some of the mid-range (previously a bit overbearing) was softened slightly. 


The stage appeared to be enhanced, though with slight L bias, vs the R bias I previously encountered  (probably shoddy mechanical wiring in both cases, maybe not an effect of the wire type). 


I didn't pick up any RF noise, or hiss, or, well anything of note that wasn't supposed to be in the tracks I sampled. 


I then toyed with the 18AWG speaker wire. The result was almost identical, except the low/mid-range was a bit more pronounced. The sound was slightly 'warmer'. Keep in mind that, for most jack replacements, 18AWG is too large *especially* when tinned to feed through the little holes.  Still, working with it is very easy - just be careful with your solder and temps. I simply soldered R and L (+) to the inside of the respective tabs and spliced R/L (-) and soldered to the sleeve. I peeled and 4-braided the cables together with a piece of heatshrink at the jack end and also at the R/L split  on the headphone end. 


For these cans, I'd say that this wire can be a perfectly viable option. Been listening through them for a month now and find them (almost) comparable to my ATH-700x's (the D1001's  just don't reduce outside noise as well). 


Now. if I could only mold some sort exterior to dampen outside noise. Maybe different ear cups?

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