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Recabling Denon AH-D1001 (&D1000) - Page 3

post #31 of 80
i got my D1001 and i like it a lot.

but i am looking for a suitable cable to recable my d1001.

i am looking for a cable that can bring out more bass quantity.

any suggestions?

thanks
post #32 of 80
You can read this thread there are a couple of suggestions of cables that you can used.
I used the cable of the hd655's headphones and I noticied improvements on the sound.
post #33 of 80
I just bought the D1001s. I have read extensively about re-cabling the headphones. I am on the verge of ordering the HD650s but I noticed there was some type of connector. Does that connector have to be cut off.

I am pretty good in soldering but I have no idea which wires would go where.

Anyone who has done the mod, can you post some pictures of how you wired it if you have any available?
post #34 of 80
I think the knot is glued to the cups, because it really won't budge easily. Should I use a bit more force? Or attempt prying it out with a cutting material?

Edit: Spoke a bit too soon! All is well. Just need gentle force!
post #35 of 80
so im about to buy a pair of DENON AH-D1001K, which will be my first headphone purchase.. exciting! with a grand total of 107 with 2nd day shipping. speak now in the next 10min or forever hold ur peace
post #36 of 80
quick question.
are there differences between the metals that are used for soldering? are some better than others?
also, when you ordered your cable from markertek, how did you specify how long of a cable you wanted? it doesn't seem to have an option for that.
Link to markertek page
post #37 of 80
In the quantity, you put how many feet of cable you want. If you want 5 ft, then you choose 5 as quantity.

As for solder type, eutectic (64/36) is usually easier to work with compared to 60/40. Less chance of "cold joints" that way.

I'm hoping stuff I bought at Radioshack is enough for me to practice soldering. I bought one of those boards used for DIY CMOYs along with some $1 resistors to help practice solder. I also bought myself another pair of KSC-75... They sound freaking awesome for $5.
post #38 of 80
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by EraserXIV View Post
quick question.
are there differences between the metals that are used for soldering? are some better than others?
also, when you ordered your cable from markertek, how did you specify how long of a cable you wanted? it doesn't seem to have an option for that.
Link to markertek page
Silver solder is presumably the best for audiophile applications, although in the tiny amounts used to recable these headphones, any quality rosin core electrical solder, which is usually an alloy of tin and lead, would be fine. I used standard Kester brand solder myself.

On the Markertek web site, you order bulk Mogami cable by the foot. See attached image.
LL
post #39 of 80
hmm thanks. 5 ft is typically the length of most headphone cables right? and a y-split about 1.5 feet down?

also, what kind of retail stores usually sell heatshrink? on amazon they only sell it in bulk at like $10 but i'm only going to use a bit of it. same with dynamat.
post #40 of 80
Eight hours later and I finally recabled my D1001. Again, the change seems to be subtle. I was a bit underwhelmed, but I do believe that the sound changed quite a bit. Everything does sound better, and I was just going to sell my HFI-780, but I noticed how similar the two sounded, and now I'm struggling as to what to do. To my ears there iisn't much of a difference between the two, but since I'm just a beginner with the audio world and all... I can see that my HFI-780 has potential, especially later on in the future. Did I expect too much from my recable? Or perhaps from the D1001 overall?

Anyways... as to my soldering experience. The most difficult part was definitely soldering the plug. There was barely any room for me to do anything. I'll take a pic of my plug when I get home in break, since I plan on redoing the plug. I had to tape down the plug with lots of tape, and heating the parts for soldering took a while since everything acted as a big heatsink.

Soldering the connectors in the Denon was probably the easier part. I was comfortable with the soldering iron, but I was probably not taking great care of my iron. I didn't have a sponge with me, so paper towel had to improvise. Good thing I didn't invest in an expensive one just yet!

As for the steps... desolder the stock wire/solder with braid, remove cable, insert small amount of solder (I used Cardas Quad Eutectic), tin the wire (next difficult part), and heat both the pad and the wire... and I get a seemingly solid connection. I must've reheated the pad like six times... The Cardas melted too fast and I usually end up with a blob.

Any thoughts? It wasn't too bad of a first time experience, and I can definitely do better if I add additional tools (helping hands, a sponge, and a different source of light). I'll give my D1001 some burn in time, since these had 300 hours of burn in when stock.
post #41 of 80
ShinyFalcon, you used the mogami 2893 for your recable?
post #42 of 80
Does anybody know what tubing to use for these mogami cables? And where can i buy it? What plug should i use?
Im thinking to recable my ksc75 and k81. The process is similar right???

EDIT: And what should i do with the shielding of the cable? Just cut it off???
post #43 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by nocturnalsheet
ShinyFalcon, you used the mogami 2893 for your recable?
Yes, Mogami mini quad W2893.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mambo5
And what should i do with the shielding of the cable? Just cut it off???
For the shield above the y-split, you can cut the shield off. Beneath the y-split (where you solder the wires to the plug) the copper should be twisted and soldered to the plug's ground (the long big tab).

I'm curious about where to get the Techflex too. I'm curious enough to recable all of my headphones (KSC-75, HFI-780) too o_O.
post #44 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by mambo5 View Post
Does anybody know what tubing to use for these mogami cables? And where can i buy it? What plug should i use?
Im thinking to recable my ksc75 and k81. The process is similar right???

EDIT: And what should i do with the shielding of the cable? Just cut it off???
I don't know exactly the tubing you're meaning. Is it the heatshrink or techflex/nylon multifilament sleeve?
If heatshrink, a 1/4" will fit tightly. If sleeve, a 3/16" will cover the 2893 nicely.

You just cut off the shield above the y-splitter. Neutrik is a very good,small mini plug with the Mogami.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinyFalcon View Post
I'm curious about where to get the Techflex too. I'm curious enough to recable all of my headphones (KSC-75, HFI-780) too o_O.
I personally dislike the techflex. Very inflexible and microphonic. Nylon multifilament is far better (softer, more flexible, zero microphonic and nice looking).
You can get everything you need @ www.wirecare.com
post #45 of 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Knight View Post
I don't know exactly the tubing you're meaning. Is it the heatshrink or techflex/nylon multifilament sleeve?
If heatshrink, a 1/4" will fit tightly. If sleeve, a 3/16" will cover the 2893 nicely.

You just cut off the shield above the y-splitter. Neutrik is a very good,small mini plug with the Mogami.

I personally dislike the techflex. Very inflexible and microphonic. Nylon multifilament is far better (softer, more flexible, zero microphonic and nice looking).
You can get everything you need @ www.wirecare.com
Thank you much appreciated.
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