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Markl-type Mods on Denon AH-D1001 (&D1000) - Page 2

post #16 of 58
Very Cool Mod, I noticed a BIG difference just changing the cable.
I might do this mod on my #2s I think I posted before about the cable change?? Be VERY careful when de-soldering and soldering. As you can see from the original ops pics. The solder point is on a small plate that is only held in place by the plastic driver housing. On the bottom of the plate is a small lead wire that goes to the speaker. If you heat the plate up too much the lead wire will break. Also too much heat will melt the driver housing. Any Two of these small things will Ruin the cans. So be very careful and work fast. It's very forward and not to hard of a job. So just take your time, or pm me if you need help or someone to do the work, on the cheap
post #17 of 58
Take deep breaths and blow before you re-solder??
post #18 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Citizen86 View Post
Take deep breaths and blow before you re-solder??


post #19 of 58
Anyone willing to try this this with an Aurvana Live?
post #20 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by padam View Post
Anyone willing to try this this with an Aurvana Live?
I'd do it for you but being in Hungary the shipping cost would by quite a bit from you to me. Even tho I only charge $50 for a re-cable

this ones just wanting to go on a new set of cans

post #21 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tokenganjaclan View Post
I'd do it for you but being in Hungary the shipping cost would by quite a bit from you to me. Even tho I only charge $50 for a re-cable

this ones just wanting to go on a new set of cans

Too bad. I need to find somebody to do this where I live (as I was reading maybe I could do the the mod, but the recable, that is too dangerous for me and I cannot get the cable either) as the Aurvana Live! is so dirt cheap compared to the Denon (which is overpriced here I think)

But maybe a friend of mine can help even if he would find the idea of bringing the phone to there and back very silly, which it is

I would say that even with a bad stock cable and un-modded form it is still good value, especially as a 'first headphone'. The webshop where it is very cheap says that there is no possibility of trying it... (too bad, it is a trusted place) I have bigger-than-average ears, but I doubt I would have any problem wearing them.

But maybe head-fi got me so infected I will not be settled with it even I don't have anything close to it at the moment
post #22 of 58
Take Aurvana Live! as you're from Europe, and buy Spanish cable - Conducfil Sonolene 3014. You need it roughly twice the length planned for the headphones. Don't connect the shield anywhere, neither connect them together. You solder one cable per transducer and lead four wires to the plug. This is the place where ground wires connect together finally. Conducfil Sonolene 3014 outperforms original Grado cable easily which brings significant improvement as well. With the Conducfil the Creatives sound - saying what my friend said - like the UE9's should sound, and kick the K701's ass all the way in naturality of presentation.
post #23 of 58
What about the 7N-OFC cable of the big brother? Maybe that would be a worthwhile upgrade as well. Hope somebody in the EU is considering a D5000 recable But does it really make the sound so much better?
post #24 of 58
Where can I find / purchase the fiber from to fill the cups? Would this fiberloft product be ok?
post #25 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by phutro View Post
Where can I find / purchase the fiber from to fill the cups? Would this fiberloft product be ok?
That fiber looks fine. The fiber is basically pillow stuffing and you should be able to find it at any local crafts store.

Ryan
post #26 of 58
Thread Starter 
Mountain Mist fiberloft works well for this purpose. You should be able to find it locally at Michael's Arts & Crafts stores or Jo-Ann Fabrics.
post #27 of 58
So I'm a total beginner, but this sounds like what I need. I'm loving my AH-D1001S cans to death for the prices (I just can't afford the higher end products) and they just blew me away from the moment they burned in enough to open up (which didn't take very long.) However, I will admit that the bass could definitely use some work. This sounds like just what I need. I'm also grabbing some cable to recable it while I'm at it since I might just as well do that while I have it open and all. I do have a few questions though if someone will indulge my "noobishness" in the matter (I'll admit I'm extremely new to this sort of thing):

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bostonears View Post
Prior to permanently mounting the Dynamat, place it into the cup without removing the adhesive backing. This will form the Dynamat into the desired concave shape. Then, extract the Dynamat, remove the adhesive backing and install it. To minimize air bubbles, start pressing the material firmly in place in the center of the cup, working your way outward. As Markl noted, you need to make sure every square millimeter of the Dynamat is firmly adhered. If you have any air bubbles, work them toward an edge, where you will here a snap sound when they are released (like the pop of chewing gum). If you are unable get air bubbles to the edge, you can use an X-Acto knife to cut through the Dynamat and squeeze out the air.
One thing I'm not clear on is what the OP means by "installing" the Dynamat when you actually are supposed to remove the adhesive. How will it stick if you remove the adhesive? It seems to me like if I stick it in there and then pull it back out I'll end up having to loose all of the shape in the process of getting it out anyway though, so I'm not sure how well that will work. Also, I'm kind of wondering how well I can really get out the air bubbles. I've always had serious troubles with this when doing things like applying screen protectors. On my PDA I had bought a set of sheets and went through some four sheets or so I think before I got it and it still got one little speck of dust in it. On a Nintendo DS I managed to get the bubbles out, but then at one point apparently a really tiny speck of dust I missed got in. How bad would it be if an air bubble stayed in or some speck of dust for that matter since it seems I'm doomed to having these sneak in when I'm not looking? Is it really better to cut a hole in the Dynamat to try to get it out than to leave it? Lol, it strikes me that it might sort of defeat the purpose somewhat if it's perforated with little holes. I realize that individually they'd be very thin and you can sort of press it tight to try to compensate, but what if I have a bunch of bubbles that are stubburn? I just wanted to check before I actually begin (well, long before since the parts could take as much as a week to arrive apparently.)

I can't wait really to see what all of this does. Especially the cabling as if what they are saying about the stock cable is at all accurate even I can believe that changing the cables could have a significant effect. (Besides, at about $13 after shipping for a pretty decent length of cable that gives me enough extra to use on a bunch of other things after I'm done with this I see no harm in having something a little tougher.) Maybe I'll even have enough Dynamat left over to treat something else (such as maybe its intended purpose in my car, though really what I need there is better speakers first and foremost.)

PS. Apparently Amazon's saver shipping only applies if you get multiple products with saver shipping. I ended up removing the Dynamat with the saver shipping and buying new from another seller just to get it close to the price that was SUPPOSED to be since it was adding quite a fair bit for shipping even though I had over $30 of items in my cart. Personally, money is a bit tight for me, so I couldn't really afford to buy just anything -- it had to be something I very specifically needed.
post #28 of 58
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nazo View Post
One thing I'm not clear on is what the OP means by "installing" the Dynamat when you actually are supposed to remove the adhesive. How will it stick if you remove the adhesive? It seems to me like if I stick it in there and then pull it back out I'll end up having to loose all of the shape in the process of getting it out anyway though, so I'm not sure how well that will work. Also, I'm kind of wondering how well I can really get out the air bubbles.
You don't remove the adhesive, you remove the adhesive backing paper that covers the adhesive. It's a peel-and-stick kind of thing. The Dynamat is fairly stiff, so you can insert it into the earcup with the adhesive backing still in place to get the Dynamat into the approximate concave shape of the earcup prior to exposing the adhesive. Doing it that way makes it much easier to get the Dynamat into place when you do expose the adhesive. You really can move the air bubbles around with your fingers, but if you get a stubborn one that you can't get over to the edge, you can always puncture the bubble with a safety pin or X-Acto knife to let the air out. The process of installing the Dynamat really isn't difficult, you just need to take your time.
post #29 of 58
Thanks. Guess I misunderstood something in there. Wish me luck then. Though Amazon put a huge ETA on the shipping, the seller decided to ship today and UPS has already picked up the package (not just one of those deals where they notify the shipper ahead of time and send a tracking address before it's even in their hands, they actually have the package in their truck to go to their facilities already.) Lol, someone's getting a good review. Anyway, I'll hold off until I get the cable since I should do both at once (especially with the earpads so hard to get back on -- though I have done that sort of thing before more just to fix loose connections than any modding, but think I can manage not to screw it up this time either.)

Thanks for the clarification. Cross your fingers for me! (It's hard to hold a soldering iron while crossing your fingers, lol.)
post #30 of 58
sorry, dumb question. What is dynamat actually? Sound isolator?

And after you're installing dynamat, is it only tightening the bass? or also improving the noise isolation?

Sankyu!
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