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New hybrid amp by Little Dot, I+ - Page 44

post #646 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDH0RN View Post

 

 

Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money.

 

Is Burr Brown the only manufacturer of this OPAMP? I got a couple for relatively cheap. Also a couple Mullard M8083's at 2450 and 2400 that are supposedly matched. Is this good? Lastly have a new 5 ft RAM Electronics cable RCA cable for my iPod that also has USB so I can charge while enjoying music. Now all I need is my I+ !

 

Yes I am quite the novice ;~)

 

Yes, op amps are like cars. Only ford may make one car, and possibly might have other companies make it but it's usually the same family of companies (ie. ford, lincoln, mercury).  M8083 are my favourite tubes, and if you can get 'em for 24$, I say go for it. :)

 

And yes, get you an I+ if your headphones work well with it. It's designed for low impedance headphones (pretty much anything under 100ohm).
 

post #647 of 757

Anyone using the ldI+ to amp a w1000? I'm impressed by the results myself.

post #648 of 757

I'm having some trouble with my ldI+. There is an irritating buzz in both channels. I first thought it was interference (ld amps are notoriously sensitive to this apparently), but I'm not sure. It is reduced when I touch the amp. With my low impedance aths the buzz is quite bad, but i can't hear it using my k500s. Also, the buzz all but disappears when I use an impedance adaptor (75 ohm). Does anyone have an idea? Are my tubes dying? Don't hope so, because they're sylvania golds and i'm very fond of them...


Edited by REB - 9/19/10 at 4:12pm
post #649 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by REB View Post

I'm having some trouble with my ldI+. There is an irritating buzz in both channels. I first thought it was interence (ld amps are notoriously sensitive to this apparently), but I'm not sure. It is reduced when I touch the amp. With my low impedance aths the buzz is quite bad, but i can't hear it using my k500s. Also, the buzz all but disappears when I use an impedance adaptor (75 ohm). Does anyone have an idea? Are my tubes dying? Don't hope so, because they sylvania golds and i'm very fond of them...


If it disappears upon touching the amp then there is an electrical problem most likely involving ground. The first thing I'd check is whether or not you're experiencing a ground loop. What is your whole audio chain like?

post #650 of 757

I was thinking a ground problem myself. I've just removed the amp from a very simple set-up: cpd->amp (it had the buzz then as well). Now it is slightly more complicated: computer (spdif) -> dac -> output selector -> ldI+. same buzz in this set-up.

 

what is a ground loop btw?

post #651 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aynjell View Post

 

 

Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money. Still looking at the OPA637 coming in the mail but if that falls through, it's really okay. What I got now is satisfying, but there's that part of me that wants the dual OPA637 to absolutely destroy the OPA2107. Fingers crossed!

 

 


is Those OPA2107 Dual channel op-amps or single channel?.

post #652 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by REB View Post

I was thinking a ground problem myself. I've just removed the amp from a very simple set-up: cpd->amp (it had the buzz then as well). Now it is slightly more complicated: computer (spdif) -> dac -> output selector -> ldI+. same buzz in this set-up.

 

what is a ground loop btw?


If you have it plugged in with power on but no input signal does it act like this? If it does, contact Davidzhezhe, this is a warranty issue that needs to be addressed.

 

Exactly what a ground loop is, I cannot say without probably saying something wrong... per wikipedia:

 

In an electrical system, a ground loop usually refers to a current, generally unwanted, in a conductor connecting two points that are supposed to be at the same potential, often ground, but are actually at different potentials. Ground loops created by improperly designed or improperly installed equipment are a major cause of noise and interference in audio and video systems. They can also create an electric shock hazard, since ostensibly "grounded" parts of the equipment, which are often accessible to users, are not at ground potential.

 

Basically, ground isn't going the right direction or there are multiple paths to ground. In audio this shouldn't happen. As an additional example, on my amp plugged directly into an X-FI I get a ground loop. If I remove the ground prong from my amps power cord it goes away. Best I can figure is the ground from the entire PC was running through my amp for whatever stupid reason. Creative is a bunch of retards I swear. (it's a creative problem, I'd believe not a Little Dot problem). It doesn't happen with battery powered amps, but then again they don't have access to the mains power.

 

Perhaps an expensive fix, but a DAC resolved this issue for me and now I use optical X-Fi to SMSL dac.


Edited by Aynjell - 9/19/10 at 7:20pm
post #653 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by genclaymore View Post




is Those OPA2107 Dual channel op-amps or single channel?.

 

Yes. :) The 637's I'm waiting on are not, they require two for dual use, with an adapter in this case.
 

post #654 of 757

Quote:

 

And yes, get you an I+ if your headphones work well with it. It's designed for low impedance headphones (pretty much anything under 100ohm).

 

What about the 120 Ohm 601's? Would the LD II be better with those?
 

post #655 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDH0RN View Post

Quote:

 

And yes, get you an I+ if your headphones work well with it. It's designed for low impedance headphones (pretty much anything under 100ohm).

 

What about the 120 Ohm 601's? Would the LD II be better with those?
 


That's on teh fence, but I'd ask davidzhezhe. Per the documentation, for those cans it's a toss up between the I+ and the IV. I'd wager the IV would sound better, however for the same amount of money. I've spent probably close to 400$ on op amps, tubes, and other mods for this amp. The IV would probably best the I+ with those cans stock, I'd wager. However with my mods, who knows. :\

 

A 2107 is about 12$, the I+ is about 150$ shipped, and the tubes I use are about 25 to 30 depending on how you order 'em. My dampers are 50$ currently, so right there you're already at about 250$. if they're you're only cans, I'd say buy the IV and then be able to upgrade to Senn's later if that's your bag. The question really is what will you invest more into, lower imp cans, or higher imp cans? Lower: I+, Higher: MK II, MK III, or MK IV. Your choice on the latter, or you could even go elsewhere... but what I'm seeing, power wise it's a toss up.


Edited by Aynjell - 9/19/10 at 9:31pm
post #656 of 757

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aynjell View Post




If you have it plugged in with power on but no input signal does it act like this? If it does, contact Davidzhezhe, this is a warranty issue that needs to be addressed.

 

Exactly what a ground loop is, I cannot say without probably saying something wrong... per wikipedia:

 

In an electrical system, a ground loop usually refers to a current, generally unwanted, in a conductor connecting two points that are supposed to be at the same potential, often ground, but are actually at different potentials. Ground loops created by improperly designed or improperly installed equipment are a major cause of noise and interference in audio and video systems. They can also create an electric shock hazard, since ostensibly "grounded" parts of the equipment, which are often accessible to users, are not at ground potential.

 

Basically, ground isn't going the right direction or there are multiple paths to ground. In audio this shouldn't happen. As an additional example, on my amp plugged directly into an X-FI I get a ground loop. If I remove the ground prong from my amps power cord it goes away. Best I can figure is the ground from the entire PC was running through my amp for whatever stupid reason. Creative is a bunch of retards I swear. (it's a creative problem, I'd believe not a Little Dot problem). It doesn't happen with battery powered amps, but then again they don't have access to the mains power.

 

Perhaps an expensive fix, but a DAC resolved this issue for me and now I use optical X-Fi to SMSL dac.


Thanks for the info. I'm afraid my warranty has expired. I've owned it for two years or so. Even without an input signal, the buzz is there. It can't be fixed by a dac in my case, because I'm using one. I'll have to see what I can do about it. It's a darn shame, because the w1000s sounded like heaven from the ldI+! I'll stick with the k500s for now and try some tube-rolling tonight, see whether it is an oxidation problem.

post #657 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by REB View Post

 


Thanks for the info. I'm afraid my warranty has expired. I've owned it for two years or so. Even without an input signal, the buzz is there. It can't be fixed by a dac in my case, because I'm using one. I'll have to see what I can do about it. It's a darn shame, because the w1000s sounded like heaven from the ldI+! I'll stick with the k500s for now and try some tube-rolling tonight, see whether it is an oxidation problem.

Make sure all the panel mount stuff at the back are tightened down nicely. Make sure they sit flush and snug. Then try it again.
 

post #658 of 757

I rolled the tubes (back to the western electric 408a) and the buzz is all but gone. There is the faintest buzz when there is no input, but that's it. Sadly, the mesmerizing sylvania sound is also gone....

post #659 of 757


Soon, I'll be getting the W1000X and use it with my LDI+. I'm assuming the results would be good as well.
What does the LDI+ do for your W1000?

Quote:
Originally Posted by REB View Post

Anyone using the ldI+ to amp a w1000? I'm impressed by the results myself.

post #660 of 757
Quote:
Originally Posted by REB View Post

I rolled the tubes (back to the western electric 408a) and the buzz is all but gone. There is the faintest buzz when there is no input, but that's it. Sadly, the mesmerizing sylvania sound is also gone....


What did you have before?

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