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New hybrid amp by Little Dot, I+ - Page 43

post #631 of 758

Quite a predicament with your headphones, well I'm (going to be) running my I+ from a DAC_II
If you really want that k70x go for it!


2 in one? I didn't see that, have you tried doing a two in one inside the LD I+ before?
I'm still new to OPA swapping so you'll have to forgive my noobiness if this is quite common.

What do you get from two OPA's in one other than having to boost the gain?

And...the fake test would be whether they sound good or not?

post #632 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suigeneris View Post

Quite a predicament with your headphones, well I'm (going to be) running my I+ from a DAC_II
If you really want that k70x go for it!


2 in one? I didn't see that, have you tried doing a two in one inside the LD I+ before?
I'm still new to OPA swapping so you'll have to forgive my noobiness if this is quite common.

What do you get from two OPA's in one other than having to boost the gain?

And...the fake test would be whether they sound good or not?

 

Yep. And you don't necessarily gain anything, the reason you need two OPA 637's is they're single channel. Same package as a dual op amp, but only a single channel product.

 

The reason you have to boost the gain is because the 637 isn't stable under 5 gain.

 

Two op amps on an adapter should be fine. There's enough room there, the only concern I'd have is the possible conflict is with the capacitors near to the socket. I forget their exact positioning...

 

http://www.littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=819

 

Were the pictures still accurate, they won't interfere and there should be more than enough room to cram the adapter and op amps into.
 


Edited by Aynjell - 9/9/10 at 12:49am
post #633 of 758

I've read through most of this thread but haven't seen any real comparisons to other tube amps. How would this compare to the MKII, say with having the upgraded 408A tubes for the i+ and stock MKII tubes? I have MS-1i and Etymotic MC-5s and mostly listen to classic rock and jazz/ big band. Is it worth the extra $30-40 for the MKII?

post #634 of 758

Guess it depends on your  phones. David at LD seems to think that for low impedance cans that require fair amounts of current the I+ is a good match. The II is a little more versatile. See PM coming your way.

post #635 of 758

I'd wager the ety's would sound like garbage on a stick from the LD I+. However the MS1i would sound amazing. The I+ is the perfect amp for the MS1i.

post #636 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDH0RN View Post

Guess it depends on your  phones. David at LD seems to think that for low impedance cans that require fair amounts of current the I+ is a good match. The II is a little more versatile. See PM coming your way.


Thanks a lot for the info!!

post #637 of 758

Is there anything I can do about the super bright blue LED on this thing?

 

If I had to think of one major flaw it'd be this.  It drives me nuts.

 

Can I mod it?  Can I change it?  I'm thinking of opening it up and just snipping it out of there, but I'm hopeful there's an easy and cheap way to "fix" this.  How hard would it be to replace it with a duller blue LED?

post #638 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by roker View Post

Is there anything I can do about the super bright blue LED on this thing?

 

If I had to think of one major flaw it'd be this.  It drives me nuts.

 

Can I mod it?  Can I change it?  I'm thinking of opening it up and just snipping it out of there, but I'm hopeful there's an easy and cheap way to "fix" this.  How hard would it be to replace it with a duller blue LED?


Erm paste a masking tape over it? Those papery kind so that you can still see if its on or not.

post #639 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by roker View Post

Is there anything I can do about the super bright blue LED on this thing?

 

If I had to think of one major flaw it'd be this.  It drives me nuts.

 

Can I mod it?  Can I change it?  I'm thinking of opening it up and just snipping it out of there, but I'm hopeful there's an easy and cheap way to "fix" this.  How hard would it be to replace it with a duller blue LED?

If some led or less led is better gently push it inward.
 

post #640 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by lazybum View Post




Erm paste a masking tape over it? Those papery kind so that you can still see if its on or not.


well, I don't want it to look crappy.

 

I was hoping there's a way to make it look better without resorting to covering it up with something.

post #641 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by roker View Post




well, I don't want it to look crappy.

 

I was hoping there's a way to make it look better without resorting to covering it up with something.


I just say push it inward, slightly.

post #642 of 758
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aynjell View Post

I just say push it inward, slightly.


hmmmmmm ... that might work

 

I'll find out tonight

post #643 of 758

Pushing it in works well for the time being, but I think I know what to do now.  I need to open the amp then slide in a piece of stained glass in between the light and the case.  I think anything thin and flat like that will work to kind of tint and tone it down.  Pushing it in definitely helped though.

post #644 of 758

I'm pretty much done tweaking mine. The only thing I'm entertaining at the moment is the dual OPA637 I ordered. If that works out, then great. If not, oh well. Well, done tweaking the amp anyway. I still see cause to upgrade my DAC. It's sort of a bandaid until I can afford better.

 

So far, here are my mods:

 

Mullard M8083 tubes: These are easily my favourite tubes, in conjunction with the op amp in use. Thing is, the current setup is compatible with every can I own. My Sony's bass don't go overboard, the Audio Technica gains bass, clarity, and warmth that it never had before (it completely transforms), my grados gain just a slight bit of warmth but don't lose anything, and My shures just sound plain neutral. The amp setup is just... good. I don't really know of a way to explain it other than it's probably another potential stock config that davidzhezhe should be investigating. It doesn't have any negative side affects with any cans I've tried with it and only seems to bring out the best in whatever's plugged into it.

 

Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money. Still looking at the OPA637 coming in the mail but if that falls through, it's really okay. What I got now is satisfying, but there's that part of me that wants the dual OPA637 to absolutely destroy the OPA2107. Fingers crossed!

 

Peek HAL-O tube dampers (7): These are pretty good, and the results are clear. While I can't claim or disclaim audible differences in the way the output sound is, what I can tell you is it reduces microphonics by a great deal. I caught them onsale at 9.97 a piece, and that was a steal for what they do. Thing is, they help avoid that ringing noise you get if you tap your desk, or what have you. Placement is crucial from what I can tell, and each tube is different. It's like a witch hunt finding the spot, and a lot of smashing keys on my mechanical keyboard or tapping on my desk. I look like a retard setting these up, but the result is worth it, in that I get less vibration induced microphonics. At current pricing of 50$ a pair, I'd say it's the last upgrade you should be doing, but maybe before higher end interconnects at least that's the order I'm going through. What you need to figure out for yourselves is a) do you have that annoying ass ringing sound, and b) does it bother you enough to spend whatever herbie's asking? Just get the next upgrade in this list. Alternatively, and while I haven't tested this others have with good results: O rings. Apparently if you go to the autozone or what have you with your tube odds are you can walk out with some o rings that'll do the job. Find some that are just tight enough to put up a bit of a fight when putting 'em on. Remember, these are expensive light bulbs, and are fragile so you don't want the hulks death grip, just something that'll stiffen 'em up.

 

BBB Cork Coasters: These go a bit further and seem to knock out the last little bit of vibration based noise the dampers don't catch. Sum of the parts, I guess. I bought a pack of these to use as coasters. Luckily, 3 left after they got packed away... found them in my kitchen when hunting through my home for something to reduce vibration and man do they work for what I wanted 'em to do. Now my amp doesn't really misbehave no matter what I'm doing. I still get microphonics off the headphone cable moving around or when I touch the volume knob, but from what I can tell, this is unavoidable. Basically, 8$ for a pack, you get some nice coasters and some good anti-vibration cork for your kit. And in my experience and having a good way to test for it, I was able to eliminate the last bit of noise with these. Awesome (free to me since I had 'em) tweak.

 

Next step, and most likely the last: Blue jeans cables. I'm really satisfied with how I grew as an audiophile with this amp. It taught me key things to look at with tube amps, what to listen for when rolling tubes or testing cans, and many other things I can't even think of with this amp. I suppose I could still start replacing caps or something, but I'm not really up for it. If somebody ends up listing some more mods that have 100% improvements towards clarity or resolution I might.


Edited by Aynjell - 9/19/10 at 12:11am
post #645 of 758

 

 

Quote:
 

Burr Brown OPA2107: A bit expensive but worth the money.

 

Is Burr Brown the only manufacturer of this OPAMP? I got a couple for relatively cheap. Also a couple Mullard M8083's at 2450 and 2400 that are supposedly matched. Is this good? Lastly have a new 5 ft RAM Electronics cable RCA cable for my iPod that also has USB so I can charge while enjoying music. Now all I need is my I+ !

 

Yes I am quite the novice ;~)

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