When I used the BB5s I used these levers: http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/16814-035_AVDD78-3-Parts-911-Brakes/Rim/Avid-Speed-Dial-7-Brake-Levers-2012.htm
They are really nice levers and the weight of them is more than reasonable, try to stay away from the all in one shifter/brake lever combos as you will eventually have to replace them when you want to upgrade something so it just makes it cheaper to get separate units.
As for the other parts here is a few suggestions:
http://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13964-270_WTBPV5-3-Parts-67-Saddles/WTB-Pure-V-Race-Saddle.htm This seat is super comfortable especially for climbing as the nose is angled down so you can sit more forward, this version is the cheaper version with the synthetic leather, but you can get it in the real leather version which is what I have. The leather one feels a bit better but you have to put shoe polish on it to keep it in good shape so it is not really worth the extra money as the synthetic one feels really good to.
As for the handlebars you can never go wrong with a pair of Easton monkeylite carbons and I can attest to their toughness as I have hit far to many trees with them than I car to admit, because they are carbon they will take out some of the small chatter of the road and give a smoother feel: http://www.jensonusa.com/!5lSuWlpLQMOcSW-TQ0f2cg!/Easton-EC70-Monkeylite-Carbon-Handlebar?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CKXX1cbjurMCFQqe4AodjWsAGQ
For the stem and seatpost you will have to decide what you will fit you the best as stems come in a wide range of lengths so you will need to figure out what size is comfortable and also depends on the size frame you buy. When you are looking at the frame sizes, ignore the sizes small, medium, etc. Instead focus on the top tube length as there is no standard to frame sizes so one companies medium might be the same as another's large, to figure out what size works best you should try out a few bikes at a local bike shop to figure out the reach that is comfortable for you and as long as the frame is with in an inch + or - you can adjust it using a stem of the correct length to offset it. For stems the best budget brand would be Race Face but if you can afford it go with Thompson as they probably make the best stems and seatposts and I doubt anyone would argue about that, not to mention they are extremely lightweight aluminum parts even by carbon standards. For the seatposts look at easton, truvativ and crankbrothers for the budget stuff, but again if you can afford it go with the Thompson as it will last you forever.
For a headset you can choose to get a cheap one or you can spend some money and get a good one which I HIGHLY recommend as a good headset will outlast you while cheap ones will only last a couple of years and feel no where near as smooth. I used to have a cheap FSA headset that always wanted to return the front wheel to center because the bearings had become worn after a few years of riding. Chris King and Cane Creek both make the best headsets hands down and no one would argue about that, Cane Creek does make some cheaper ones so make sure you stick to the 110 series, which they back with a 110 year warranty, hence the name. Chris King backs there's with a 10 year warranty and tend to be a little more pricey although they always outlive there warranty. A good headset will have a huge difference over the cheap ones as they feel so much smoother and you won't even notice they are there, I have a highend Cane Creek headset on my road bike and a Chris King on my mountain bike so I have experience with both. The Chris King does feel smoother but it was also double the price of the Cane Creek, but the Cane Creek is still incredibly smooth, I can attest to the longevity of the Cane Creeks as my dad is a huge fan and that is all he will ride and his headset has been going strong for about ten years and it still feels perfect with no signs of wear, I have only had the Chris King for a year but it is on my Yeti 575 so it sees a lot of abuse from the rocky New England trails but still feels just as good as the day I got it.
For pedals get Crank Brothers regardless of flats or clipless as they make the best pedals you will ever use and the egg beaters allow you to clip in no matter what kinda crap you have on the bottom of your shoe and the flat pedals are indestructible. For tires the continental gator skins are pretty tough and should work well for you, as for tires in the rain, it is a common misconception that you can't run slicks in the rain, just look at any bike racers in the rain they will be running slicks without a problem. Regardless of tires, I see some many new riders make common mistakes in wet weather (especially tri athletes who have the fancy time trial bikes yet know nothing about how to ride), stay off of obvious things like man hole covers and sewer grates, but it is the painted lines on the road no one expects to be slippery and I have seen many people go down because they rode on them.
For a crankset look at Race Face or try to find a couple year old Shimano XT as they make fantastic cranks that are very reliable and make sure it comes with a bottom bracket that will work with your bike. The only thing I'm at a loss for is the wheels, the Surly frame will allow you to run any size wheels you want so you will have to decide what size will work best for you and you may have to lace up the wheelset yourself or have a shop do it for you which would be my reccomendation as it is a hard task although doing it your self would give you a TON of knowledge that few people have.
