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Dual 1218 turntable has weak rotation - Page 2

post #16 of 27
6/1/08 at 4:11pm
Thread Starter 
Correction, 33 RPM doesn't work because the wheel still isn't making contact with the bearing--it doesn't naturally want to press against it. 45 RPM works but is a bit noisy (noise coming from the tire portion), and 78 RPM works and is silent.

Here's a video of what I'm describing: Link.
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post #17 of 27
6/1/08 at 4:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitesymphony View Post
Is there any sort of maintenance I should do while it's open? How does the idler wheel look?
Hard to tell by looking at a picture. To be on the safe side remove the idler wheel and let it soak in some soapy water over night.(use dish soap). This will soften it up a bit.

Get yourself a can of spray on White Lithium grease, and apply it to the linkages etc. A drop of sae 30 on the idler shaft will generally help to.

DO NOT get it on the idler wheel itself or the capstan.

You should also make sure the inner part of the platter that the idler wheel runs on is very clean and devoid of any rubber residue.
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post #18 of 27
6/1/08 at 4:36pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekbmn View Post
Hard to tell by looking at a picture. To be on the safe side remove the idler wheel and let it soak in some soapy water over night.(use dish soap). This will soften it up a bit.
Would Windex work as well (useful for cleaning rubber pinch rollers on tape players)?

What's the recommended way of removing the idler wheel?
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post #19 of 27
6/1/08 at 5:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitesymphony View Post
Would Windex work as well (useful for cleaning rubber pinch rollers on tape players)?

What's the recommended way of removing the idler wheel?
Well keep in mind you are not just cleaning the idler wheel but trying to soften it up and the soap and water solution does work if the idler wheel hasn't hardend to much.

Many of the idler wheels on turntables of that era are held on by small e-clips.
I can't quite tell from your photos if that is how yours is held on.
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post #20 of 27
6/2/08 at 12:16am
Thread Starter 
Huh, I set up the turntable and now it plays perfectly... Basically all I did was remove the platter and unjam the speed selector. I guess the bulk of the "work" is over.

For lubrication, I'll put a drop of light motor oil (SAE 30) below the idler wheel and motor pulley, and use some Windex on the idler wheel rubber itself.

Now let's play Name That Cartridge:



I've heard rumors that the stock cart on this table was a Shure M91E, but this doesn't look like the photo at CartridgeDB.

An unrelated question about a potential upgrade: Is it possible to swap the stock RCA cables for new ones, or is it essential that the RCAs are not grounded?
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post #21 of 27
8/5/08 at 9:10am

DUAL 1218 - seeking manual, advice

hi all,
Just joined. As with infinitesymphony, I too, have just been "given a Dual 1218 turntable". Does anyone have a pdf/jpg/Word version of the manual which they could send me? it would be most appreciated. i hope to do some servicing and tweaks, Advice welcome! thanks, JR.

[QUOTE=infinitesymphony;4276073]Hey vinyl guys, I've been given a Dual / United Audio 1218 turntable for potential repair and I'm seeking advice......
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post #22 of 27
8/5/08 at 9:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitesymphony View Post
I've heard rumors that the stock cart on this table was a Shure M91E, but this doesn't look like the photo at CartridgeDB.

An unrelated question about a potential upgrade: Is it possible to swap the stock RCA cables for new ones, or is it essential that the RCAs are not grounded?
Doesn't look like the M91ED that came with my Dual 510 either. On the other hand, the construction and plastic colours are similar and that's certainly a Shure logo on it. A bit more poking at CartridgeDB and it looks like it probably is a M91ED of earlier vintage, I found a few photos there that look almost identical to your photo. The model number should be found above the Shure logo, and it looks to be obscured by the headshell on yours.

In case it's not obvious, the headshell adapter can be removed by pressing the tonearm lift handle back, which will unlock the adapter that should drop/pull down and out easily.

And I don't think you'd have trouble recabling for RCAs. In fact, my turntable had the ground tied to the RCAs and no ground wire, which was causing a ground loop. I nipped the jumpers connecting them and recabled and the ground problems are gone. You can go with a shielded cable too, which I found really helps when routing the signal around near my computer (for captures). You will need a ground wire, but replacing the cable is no big deal. I did find all contacts in this turntable were covered in grease that prevented solder from adhering easily (and really stank). I'd recommend cleaning and burnishing with steel wool any electrical contacts - I had similar dirty contacts on the headshell adapter as well.
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post #23 of 27
8/5/08 at 7:04pm
Thread Starter 
I can't remember if I referenced it in this thread, but I started another thread on AudioKarma with more pictures and discussion. My headshell seems to be missing the VTA adjustment knob, and the cartridge is almost certainly the Shure M91ED with an aftermarket replacement stylus.
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post #24 of 27
8/17/08 at 11:17pm
Hey guys, I don't wanna hijack the thread, but I also have been given a dual 1218, except everything works. EXCEPT, when my dad was giving it to me, he was trying to figure out how to get the headshell off and broke the little knob on it. now the cartridge falls on the record before the needle does (because there is nothing pulling against those springs to keep it up. Just wondering if there is a way to fix that easily or if there's a way to buy a replacement headshell adapter that will fit on the 1218 arm. thanks for any help you all can give!!!
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post #25 of 27
9/14/08 at 12:43pm
I'm having a little trouble removing the C-Clip from my own turntable. I saw the picture that was posted, but me being the technical-moron I am, I'm not quite sure what I'm looking at nor what to do. Can anyone give me an in-depth explaination on how to get this stupid thing off? Thanks
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post #26 of 27
9/14/08 at 3:35pm
Thread Starter 


The C-clip is the thin metal ring above the screwdriver in this photo. Push down towards the ground on the screwdriver, forcing the clip upward and away from the fixed piece of metal.
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post #27 of 27
7/14/10 at 10:56am

Hi,

 

The idler wheel on Dual turntables NEVER has hardness, so idler is not a problem here. The problem is only an old grease. Clean the idler wheel assembly to make sure it moves freely. You can check that - remove a platter and teke a look if idler wheel moves forth to the motor pulley and back freely when you move manually tonearm to center and back to its rest 

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