Alessandro MS1000 and MS Ultimate - DIY & modding [56K warning] - Page 52

Being a gal, and having no DIY abilities whatsoever, is there anyone here who has - or would consider - doing this mod on my MS1's for me? PM me with a quote if it is something you might do. If it sounds right, and you have a good rep on the boards, I would sign any needed waivers.

I am. Southern California.

Well, don't forget about Germania!

Well, you can always bring the specs to a carpenter shop. Just print off the picture from the first post and they'd gladly make one of them for you. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes.

Definitely didn't mean to dis the competent ladies out there, I'm just not one of them . I don't even have the confidence to take those specs to a shop.

Trust me, it would take much more than a few a minutes This is not the kind of thing carpenters build (1mm tolerances for example). You could take it to a custom furniture builder and probably have better luck, but expect to pay a lot of money for the distancers.

I DIYed my own fugly (but functional) distancers in about 35 minutes. I just assumed that it shouldn't have taken as long as it took me :P.

I wish I was better at working with wood

^ 35 minutes is bloody fast if you made only one pair of distancers. Considering you have to drill wood, sand everything, glue everything, place felt and drill holes and what not to make them worthwhile.

I realized that the closer the drivers are to my ears - more bass and a little warmer sound is obtained. While wearing the MS1000 - I pushed the “cups” closer to my ears slowly with my hands – I noticed that the sound would get “warmer” as the distance closed between the cups and the sides of my head. I preferred the sound I heard with the cups a little bit closer to my head… I knew that I couldn't reverse the liberator mod (because I used epoxy), and I knew that even if I could take the liberator off - I wouldn't want to because the MS1 is lame with just the GS1000 pads...

Quick and reversible mod:

(I will have to take pics later)

Instead of normally attaching the GS1000 pads onto the distancers – you can push the pads up even higher to where the pads would normally attach to the housing if they were sans distancer. It seems like there are three distances as to how you can put on the GS1000 pad onto the MS1 housing with distancer. There is the first range, which is how the GS1000 pad is supposed to sit on the liberator’s “lip”. OR you can push the pads even further past that lip so that you can see the top of wooden distancers and attach to the lip of the original housing (hope that makes sense – I will need pics). And then thirdly you can push the pads even further so that even more of the pad is behind the lip of the stock housing (hard to explain - you will need pics or mess with the with yourself in order to understand what I am trying to describe). The different placements of the pads simulate having smaller versions of the GS1000 pad…
I am right now going with a “tapered” configuration that seems to be giving the bass I prefer, however I am not sure what effect moving the pad around has on the famous MS1000 soundstage… The tapered configuration: Place the GS1000 pad as you would normally onto the distancers. Then in the front of the pad (as in the part of the pad that is towards the front when wearing the headphones) I placed the pad down into the that “third” range, which is way past the lip of the stock housing.

These are just my first quick impressions – I haven’t had much time to test how else the sound is affected. Also, I may have an irregular sounding MS1, so your results may not be similar… If interested please try it yourself. I would like others input. I also need to determine if this mod really screws up the MS1000's soundstage - otherwise I might as well use regular bowls instead of GS1000 bowls. I have no more time at the moment. I will be in the school library until they close today... I hope to receive some feedback when I get back.

Ahh, mine didn't have any of the frills. Mine didn't have felt, nor any holes in it and they were so bad I didn't bother to sand them. Also, the vertical height of my distancers weren't uniform and evidently, I'm not good at centering things. Obviously, I don't have the skills to make these yet

They shouldn't look fugly if they are made to spec. Nickchen told me he considers it important to be within 1mm of the given dimensions. If that is the case than the distancers will look good.

How hard is it to make the distancers? I really want to make these.


Edit: RDS, how much would it cost to ship some out to Ottawa?

OK, people in NA feel free to pm me regarding distancers