Alessandro MS1000 and MS Ultimate - DIY & modding [56K warning] - Page 37

I finally got my MS-1 back from my young son. Had to trade him my SR-60 (Grado) and my SR-80 (Stax) for them.

But now I am ready to try the MS-1000 mod and have all the parts here (rds spacers and drill, blu-tak and GS-1000 bagels). Before I start, I want to tighten up the metal rods inside the plastic sliders as they slide down too easily and I don't like them loose - any suggestions?

compressed air probably won't remove tiny metal filings from a magnet

I've been looking at pictures of some of the rod-locking mods. If you had a drill and a tap, you could probably cut threads in a small hole in the plastic arm. You could use a machine screw to lock the drivers in place. I think the threads would be pretty delicate though. Does anyone have any pointers on building a rod-locking mechanism?

For more of a stop-gap measure, you could probably cover the rod with a thin layer of epoxy or clear nail polish. Not the most elegant solution, but I think it would work, at least for a while. If you clean the metal with acetone prior to coating, it should bond.

Looking forward to your impressions on the mod, HeadphoneAddict.

I would like to do the MS1000 mod to my Alessandro MS1's - Question: could I use a pair of plastic Grado cups with screens still attached (buttons removed) as liberators? (I have a pair from a recent SR225 mod). Then all I would presumably need are the GS1000pads. Would this work?

Oh, I thought it was wood filing/dust getting into the drivers.

Good idea with the nut, nickchen. One trick I've used when epoxying nuts: Fill the inside of the nut with hot wax from a candle. (Make sure to clean the outside before using epoxy, as the wax will keep it from bonding.) After the epoxy has set, just use a lighter/heat gun/hair dryer to melt the wax.

It's a royal pain to permanently mount a nut, only to find the threads filled with epoxy.

If you use a nut, use a stainless steel nut and screw. Zinc plated screws will corrode that ugly powdery white color in a short while. Also, they make threaded brass inserts that are a little larger than the intended screw size. I intend to use the brass inserts. You drill the hole, then epoxy them in place. Then you can use some knurled edge machine screws or thumb screws to lock the height. Brass screws would be a good choice too if you don't mind the color as they are soft, so they would strip out before breaking the holder if they are accidentally overtightened. The SS nut or brass threaded insert should still be ok if that happened.

Alright, I'm considering recabling my MS-1000s. My question to everyone is what do you feel are things which the MS-1000 lacks or requires, i.e. more bass control, more warmth, details, etc., and I guess I'll choose cable material accordingly.

IMO, I'm leaning towards a more detailed sound, and I think I'm going to settle with silver plated copper cable (navship), but I'm afraid that it might accentuate the highs.

^ I would stick with copper. I don't want to brighten up my MS1000.

Was lucky enough to snag a pair of dark audio liberators a few days ago, so it looks like i'll be re-joining the club.

I ordered a pair of the improved ms1 to see how they fair out but ultimately i'm heading for a pair of Ms-Pro. Has there been any word of an Ms-Proi in the works?

Thanks Nickchen.

Good to now that when i buy a pair they wont be out of date 5 mins later. I've seen a couple of pairs available on the for-sales, very tempting