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Originally Posted by kintsaki  Brian, I would also want to see a woodie triangle in lieu of the plastic one, woodied cups on the shafts, and screw locks on the shaft holders to keep the drivers from rotating 360 degrees and twisting the cables.
For the rest of you that don't know it, the 125,325 and RS-1's that Brian "Boilermakerfun" send to Grado for repair were mine at some point in time. The 125 was the oldest, I purchased it in 2001 from a dealer that used it as a demo for more than a year and it was the last one to go out from overdriving it six months ago. The 325 was the newest (2005) and used less and went first and then the RS-1. The RS-1 had the best midrange and the 125 had the best bass and treble. I now have a 325i which is an overall compromise with midrange improved over the 125 and treble improved over the RS-1. The 125 still better than all on bass.
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Mike, I was planning the wood bowls and tips for your 125s. I'll also include one of the better leather headbands and new cable. The Y-Split and jack will have the same wood as the cups. The triangle in wood will be more difficult, but I have an idea I need to test once I get them back. You will love it, I'm confident of that. I may have to just break down and buy a set of SR80s to sacrifice to your SFI cups for the hangers and use the drivers to repair my vintage Kenwoods.
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Originally Posted by kintsaki and if someone could come up with a proper in ear plug for the SR-003 (baby Stax or Omicron as I call it given Stax uses Greek letters for their phones such as Gamma, Lambda, Sigma, Omega)
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This is OT, but I'll answer it here for you... I need a drawing or sketch of what you want. Or I need detailed measurements of the post that inserts into the plug. Custom ear moldings can be done and ear plugs that exactly match your ears and accept the Stax plugs can be made. The risk is spending a $150 on earplugs that seal great, fit great, but negatively impact the sound. I have a friend that had custom ear plugs made for his Shure E540s, so I'll ask him how they affected the sound, then pass on the info to you.
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Originally Posted by kintsaki Brian, see if you can buy a set of GS-1000 pads for me and make me wooden spacer distancers to send me to allow me to mode my 325i's to PS-1000 emulators.
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I'll make you a set of spacers to nickchen's dimensions and I can get you the pads, but they are $45 a set, so I didn't order them with my repair service. Perhaps I should though, then I might, might, be able to wrap them in lambskin or kangaroo leather for you to make them last, this would also really emphasize the bass and the highs to your liking, so I will see what I can do. Lots of trials with pleather for patterns before I put a $300 kangaroo hide under the scissors...
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Originally Posted by kintsaki I have always hated Grado pads because they would disintegrade in a short period of time but now the GS-1000 carry a very long warranty period.
Are they made from a different material ?
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- Yes. Much denser foam
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Originally Posted by nickchen Things are simple with Gradessandros, but not THAT simple that a PS1000 can emulated by such minor tweaks as described in this thread.
Tweaking drivers is something very serious that I personally wouldn't dare. You may be able to influence bass by reducing or adding backwards damping layers, but I have no idea how to influence mids and treble in the driver's section.
The material of the distancers doesn't play any role, as long as felt coating is applied. I've tried different wood sorts, plastic (the original Liberators) and self hardening compound, it's all alike.
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Have to 100% agree, trying to tweak drivers that aren't readily available except by return repair service or buying new cans would be difficult and very expensive for little chance of great success.
As experienced by the ortho tweakers, the type of felt and it's thickness will have an effect on the sound to larger degree than most probably realize. On bass heavy, but muffled or dark orthos, we damp them very heavily with felt and other materials to smooth and recess the bass allowing the mids and highs to come forward. This process reduces the efficiency of the headphones, so higher levels of power or volume knob setting are required to get the modded orthos to the same volume level as the stock versions.
Mike, I can try dampening the rear of the 125s woodied bowls and test a few felts on the spacers to see how it reacts. I bet I can get more mids and highs of the 125s while reducing the overwhelming bass down to enjoyable levels. They still won't be the best for female voices though, since they will still be Grados after all.
I'll post my opinions on all mods after I get Grados back and let Mike share his opnions many months from now when they are finally back in his hands in Greece.
And I was serious, I am going to call Grado and ask if they will install Allesandro drivers in my 325s for a premium. Worst case, he says no.
