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Alessandro MS1000 and MS Ultimate - DIY & modding [56K warning] - Page 158

post #2356 of 2427

I have done the MS1 extension out of plumbing pipe and GS1000 pads and I really like it. Now I am making limba wood cups, including an extension, with the side wall 1-2mm thicker than the original.

 

I plan to take the driver out of the original and then install it in the wooden cups (oiled and sanded to a tight fit) the same distance from the outside "grid" as the original.  I will use GS1000 pads.

 

Does anyone know if this is likely to result in a perceived improvement?

post #2357 of 2427

Has anyone tried these pads instead?  http://www.amazon.com/Ear-Zonk-Replacement-Headphone-Cushion/dp/B00BW4RWH2/ref=lh_di_t_dup?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A57071PIWN05O

 

Knock-off GS1000 pads, essentially, at half the price.  The reviews are pretty good though.

post #2358 of 2427

I've used those pads. They're certainly nice enough for what they cost. I've heard the foam in them isn't as dense as the legitimate grado pads, which might change the sound a bit, but I haven't verified that. 

post #2359 of 2427

I wanted to buy those but I found reviews that said they weren't as good as the Grados.  I paid $50 for the Grados.

 

If you search you can find details.

post #2360 of 2427

Well, they look like the real deal if you ask me..! I would, however, advise against getting the fake ones.

 

Also, if you are having trouble finding distancers, PM me. I made some over the weekend after I had to turn down more head-fiers than I wanted. :ph34r:

post #2361 of 2427

Does anyone know how to remove the metal headband from left and right squarish things holding it in? I've seen a video to do it with a sr60 but it doesn't want to do that on these.

 

Figured it out, just have to jerk it back and forth to loosen the glue.


Edited by indieroll - 12/6/13 at 1:34pm
post #2362 of 2427
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanman View Post

 

If anyone does order a pair, please do post some pictures and stuff with them, I'd like to see how they turn out. I've also made the CAD model free to access and download if you feel like modifying it or making it yourself.

The pads arrived.  Now I'm having trouble understanding exactly how to do the mod.  I see lots of pictures of the finished process, but unless I'm missing something no one has actually explained, step by step, how to put in the new spacer.

 

Should the pads be able to fit securely onto the spacer?  If so, the walls are too thin and the lip is too small, so the pads actually don't fit at all.

post #2363 of 2427

Tape, blu-tac, glue, ...

 

That is what I am worrying about. Those CAD distancers look nice, but the lip does seem too small...

post #2364 of 2427

Does anyone have a recommended wall thickness? I will be making the distances out of some wood, the wall thickness says 2mm or so.

 

In regards to attaching the spacer, do you just put the blu-tac around the plastic part of the driver around the white cloth of the driver? Or do you also blu-tac around the inside of the spacer that will be touching the plastic housing of the driver. Also after all of that, does anyone put any sort of tape for added security between the outer portion spacer where it meets the outer lip of the driver housing, meaning the original lip for securing the pads?

post #2365 of 2427

I use hot glue to secure mine. If you want to try something that comes off a bit more easily I suggest you blu-tac the distancers in place. I would not use it inside the distancers, just on the outside should be fine. Make sure you make it air tight however!

 

Don't really know what you want with the tape tbh... If you make the lip big enough the pads will fit securely.

post #2366 of 2427
Quote:
Originally Posted by apatN View Post
 

I use hot glue to secure mine. If you want to try something that comes off a bit more easily I suggest you blu-tac the distancers in place. I would not use it inside the distancers, just on the outside should be fine. Make sure you make it air tight however!

 

Don't really know what you want with the tape tbh... If you make the lip big enough the pads will fit securely.

 

Thanks apatN. What wall thickness do you use for your distancers? There is no value listed for the wall thickness in the dimensions.

post #2367 of 2427
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanman View Post

 

Shameless plug here, but If you're looking for something more precise, I CAD'ed a spacer design a while ago and posted it on shapeways, which will 3-D print them and ship them around the world. However it's not too cheap and  takes a long time before you get them. Probably something like $30 and three weeks for a pair done in an aluminum polymer mixture shipped to Australia,  If you're feeling fancy they also do stainless steel, brass, silver, or gold even, for some ridiculous amount of money..

https://www.shapeways.com/model/1288966/alessandro-ms-1000-spacer.html?li=shop-results&materialId=28

You should take your link down - the lip around the spacer isn't big enough to hold the pads.  You probably should've given these a test run before you encouraged other people to use them.

post #2368 of 2427
Would say it depends on the kind of wood you use, but around 2mm or so?
post #2369 of 2427
Quote:
Originally Posted by johan851 View Post
 

You should take your link down - the lip around the spacer isn't big enough to hold the pads.  You probably should've given these a test run before you encouraged other people to use them.


If you don't mind me asking (since I assume you ended up getting them from that website), how was the build quality? Do you think with an altered CAD drawing ordering from that website would be alright?

post #2370 of 2427
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oilman View Post
 


If you don't mind me asking (since I assume you ended up getting them from that website), how was the build quality? Do you think with an altered CAD drawing ordering from that website would be alright?

They're very precisely made.  The material is a little bit rough feeling, but I think they have a smooth version that would fix that.  It's almost like high grain sandpaper.  The material doesn't have a "quality" sort of feeling to it, but it's fairly sturdy, a little bit flexible, and there's nothing wrong with it.  If you made one with thicker walls and a larger lip I imagine it would be fine.

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