Where is the Earmax? - Page 20

Thanks for the responses guys. The earmax was definitely worth the used price I paid, and I actually liked it better - less fatiguing, smooth, natural sound - with the HD650s than other larger, more expensive tube amps I've tried at meets. The quality of the sound is quite good for this small device. Perhaps I'll upgrade to Pro when one comes up for sale.

I probably won't be getting the phenix/sense anytime soon, but it looks like an amazing deal if it even comes close to earmax sound. Anyone in the LA area who has one is welcome to compare with my original earmax!

My interest in the Earmax Pro is increasing, but I have just found this scary picture:

Can someone confirm if this is really an Earmax? I can not believe that it is using electrolytic capacitors!!. The LaFigaro is using oil capacitors. All that components are worth less than $150. They are not soldered point to point, and the assembly is a mess.

The assembly looks okay to me not a mess really. There are many tube amps still using electrolytic capacitors.

Philips HP-021-LL 470uf capacitor    $7 x 2

Alps 100K Stereo Potentiometer    $10

Resistors <$15~20

Condensers <$10~40

Connectors <$15~30

PCB <$14~30

Valve sockets, valves, etc... $60~100

Metal Box ?

Power Supply ?

Where are the expensive components?

It's not a two dimensional device so I doubt that your eyescan has captured everything. Also what are you factoring in for assembly, quality control on a precision Class A device, warranty service, GS&A etc? Do you think that designing, manufacturing and selling small batch precision niche headphone amplifiers is an easy high profit endeavour?

Anyway the tone of your argument could probably also be applied to the majority of products discussed in these forums.

Here is a good review by Charles Hansen that will explain the internals to you better. I don't think it contradicts you but it does illustrate that the whole is greater than the parts...

(It's no longer online it seems so I put it on Megaupload. It's only 207Kb.)

I bought a matched pair of NOS Brimar Ediswan CV2492 for my EMP, British military equivalent to the German Cca, made at Thorn-AEI (Brimar), Rochester in 1966. (These from Misterrogers on here.) They were a bit edgy at first but over the past ten days as they have burned in they have smoothed nicely and taken on real character. I am combining them with a Mullard ECC81 with D getter from 1956, branded Amperex with the Bugle Boy logo. That's my warmest driver tube and the combination is gorgeous. The vocals are sweet yet the soundstage is huge and the dynamics are excellent. I'm listening to Cowboy Junkies' Trinity Session right now and falling in love with my EMP all over again. Great little amp.

I have an Earmax, possibly a Pro, which is literally falling apart.  It's 10+ years old and has been rebuilt once due to corrosion (my fault), plus its had a very hard life.  I'm thinking about replacing it but I can't work out whether the Pro or SE would work better with HD800s.  I already have an M1 HPA which works well, but I do miss the Earmax sound.  My current one has gone soft and lacks focus, plus it crackles occasionally through the headphones, but it still makes a nice change to my solid state amps.

I have the volume set to 9 o'clock on my current version.  If the SE has more gain does that mean I get less room to manouevre on the volume pot, or does it only affect the top end of it? 

My unit has a brass volume pot and says Brocksieper on it.  The PSU is about 4 inches by 2 inches and has a blue LED, in case that helps identify it?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stormfriend 

I have an Earmax, possibly a Pro, which is literally falling apart.  It's 10+ years old and has been rebuilt once due to corrosion (my fault), plus its had a very hard life.  I'm thinking about replacing it but I can't work out whether the Pro or SE would work better with HD800s.  I already have an M1 HPA which works well, but I do miss the Earmax sound.  My current one has gone soft and lacks focus, plus it crackles occasionally through the headphones, but it still makes a nice change to my solid state amps.

 

I have the volume set to 9 o'clock on my current version.  If the SE has more gain does that mean I get less room to manouevre on the volume pot, or does it only affect the top end of it? 

 

My unit has a brass volume pot and says Brocksieper on it.  The PSU is about 4 inches by 2 inches and has a blue LED, in case that helps identify it?

The Brocksieper name just means that you have a 220 volt model. Either that or the triangular placard that covers the name on the 110 volt model has fallen off.

Your power supply with the blue LED suggests that you have an Earmax Pro.  The Earmax has a smaller supply with a green LED. 

The Earmax Pro is meant to be tubier than the SE. The SE is relatively closer to a solid state sound. The SE will do a better job with low impedance headphones like Grados but the EMP is ideal for high impedance headphones like Sens and Beyers.

I replaced my earmax pro with a new chrome version as I was rather enjoying the knackered old one I have, despite its foibles.  I'm waiting for it to burn in at the moment, but may seriously look at tube rolling this time around.  I've never done it before, but I've just had a play with my old earmax and it seems pretty simple.  Once I know what I want to change about the sound I'll be back for advice on that. :-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperpwc 

Quote:

The Brocksieper name just means that you have a 220 volt model. Either that or the triangular placard that covers the name on the 110 volt model has fallen off.

 

I'm glad you posted that as I'd have assumed my new one was faulty/incomplete otherwise.  Its a shame, as I'd rather have the placard on the device despite being a UK model.

So my EMP has taken pride of place in my system as it works better with my HD800s than my other amp, and I'm in the fine tuning stage now.  I have a number of valves to play with, and some more on order, but it's getting difficult to find them and it's essentially a crapshoot with different years of manufacture, getter types, and all the other stuff that goes with it.  I spoke to the importers in the UK and their upgrade valve kit varies according to what they have in stock, so I'd never be sure what I was getting.  In terms of consistency does anyone know of any good quality, modern (ie current manufacture) valves for use in the EMP?  They may not be utterly orgasmic, but so long as they're better than the standard ones and don't cost a fortune I'd be interested to know.

I'm currently using a Mullard CV4024 with the TAD output valves, as the Philips output valves I got have a very obvious mid-bass hump.  The TAD valves are tight and fast, which is nice and slightly unexpected, but they lack transparency and sound a bit veiled at the top.  My Philips 12AT7WC sounds very similar to the Mullard, but the cryo'd RFT is a lighter touch and works better with the Philips output valves.  I have some Amperex and Sylvania output valves on order too, but the Amperex are Grade 1, which means second hand apparently.  Someone made a reference to 'artworks' when it comes to buying valves, and its starting to feel a bit like that. :-)

My current favorite output tubes are the unmarked NOS tubes that came with the EMP. They are probably Tungsram from the 1970s. Very simple and clean.

Unfortunately, Brocksieper ran out of stock and so now the EMP comes with all TAD tubes. My EMP did come with a TAD input tube but I use a Bugle Boy (Mullard ECC81 with D getter from 1956, branded Amperex).

I still have the original unmarked output tubes from my first EMP, which I bought about 10-15 years ago, but they've been used a lot and have corroded contacts.  The RFT (I believe) middle valve that came with them has since died.  I might give them another go, but I'm not sure what their life expectancy will be.