Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp - Page 310

I hate to ask such a simple question, but how would one use the LED/LED resistors on a PtP build? I've searched and searched, but couldn't find anything .

Well, it's hard to tell from the photo - but if that's the other leg of C8, then that pad is definitely tied to the ground plane. So make sure you apply enough heat - use more flux, that will help. If that doesn't work, then you may need to solder a small jumper from a scraped off portion nearby to that leg of C8.

Thanks. I applied a ton of flux but it still didn't stick solder. Will try again later to see if it works.

Just tap the 48V (I went straight from the switch) then resistor, LEDs in parallel, ground.

Don't forget that the resistor needs to be at least 2W power rating because of the 48V. You probably want to set the LEDs for roughly 10mA (up to 20 if you want brighter, down to 5 or so if you want it really dim, this all depend on the LED specs), so solve V=IR for those values to find the resistor you need.

There is someone from France who has ordered a SSMH kit and has not paid. That in itself is not an issue. I often send an e-mail back to some people who have trouble with the Paypal procedure, or when the connection to Paypal drops out. It's not an issue because a manual payment is a snap once they know the account for beezar.

However, when someone registers and the only means I have of contacting them is an e-mail address that kicks every one of my messages back as spam, the situation becomes difficult. I've tried sending from Beezar, my home account, several different subject lines, etc. - everything is blocked and I receive a nice formatted and lengthy "You've been blocked." e-mail reply to every message I send.

If you are the person who's ordered the kit from France and sees this, please contact me through some method that allows me to contact you.

Thanks.

P.S. It's also not an issue if the order was a mistake and they want to cancel it. That happens every once in awhile, too - and it's not a problem! However, please tell me! There are not many kits left and I'm sure there are others who would like to purchase this one.

Just done the mosfet + heatshink. Does it look right? It's really a PITA to do.

Looks pretty good to me. I can't see the isolation washer offhand but as long as you followed the build guide it should be in the right place.

I hope it would work fine.

About the terminals, I just push the wires in the screw them, right?

Yep. Just make sure you've got good contact.

How important is the heat transfer goo? I just found out that I don't have it right now

In the build notes, TomB says it can be skipped. From my experience with the amp that's probably correct, especially if you only run it for an hour or two at a time. I think you'd be fine without it for now - you can always add it later on.

Where's the lock washers?

Yeah, I know they're not there

Well, it might be a good idea to use them. If you're not using the heat transfer grease between the case and the heat sinks, you sure enough don't want the contact between the two to loosen up over time. That will happen as the metal heats and cools, expands and contracts. Just a friendly recommendation.