Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp - Page 222

Thanks for that, quite attractive looking as well.

Far be it from me to say anything negative about zkool's stuff , but we looked at that heat sink for the SSMH PCB. The problem is that it's over $10! You may still be faced with drilling it, too, although zkool can confirm that better than me. Anyway, that's why we went with the TO-3 sinks - they're only a buck and change each, besides having one of the highest power rejection ratings, too.

Oh I agree, the heatsink you chose is very, very effective...and inexpensive as well which fits the whole starving student thing.

Just choosing to do it a bit differently myself.

Sounds good - just wasn't aware of the context.

Thanks for the kind offer for help. I sent you a PM a while ago (half hour maybe) though i just checked my mail in the meanwhile and got an automated mail from beezar that said it was already shipped. I'll try and do it without the lugs, see if it works.

Dries

I would in no account presume any comments from you as negative Tom

I really do like the TO-3 sinks very much and do not imply they're of lesser or inferior in quality versus the one I suggested, far from it.

Yes the 641K sinks indeed cost more. They don't come predrilled so one would have to drill their own holes, a bit more challenge to get it mounted and lined up precisely with the pcb. In addition, if one decides to use one on the recommended/custom Hammond case being offered here, it would actually extend by about 1.8mm on each side of the top lid (tad wider)… so this is more for the non-starving, custom junkies out here

Yes I prefer those heatsinks as well. But as costs forced me not to buy them, I still find them gorgeous with both tubes in between the fins.

trying to mock up a rough case design and think I have a small problem. It looks like I only have less than 4mm between the top of the PCB and the top of the case.

The tube sockets on beezar look to be too thick to squeeze in between there.....

So I think I will have to mount the PCB in the bottom slot and run wires up to the tube sockets. My question is...will running longer wires to the PCB from the top of the case present any problems in terms of interference or the actual length of the wires? :/

Also is it bad to have longer mosfet legs?






**edit*** so I would have to run tube wires from the bottom of the PCB all the way up to the sockets :/ will this cause interference problems? Maybe I will just use standoffs and mount the PCB higher up .

No, no problem per se with wiring the tube sockets. It's been done here before and with the revMH Millett Hybrid (Blooze did this). It's just a huge pain - 10 wires leads (two on each socket can be wired together - the plates and the grids), and you may need to leave enough length for your method of diss-assembly as well.

As for the MOSFETs, you should solder R3 and R9 directly to the MOSFET legs and then wire to R3 and R9.

That one is also nice:



Wakefield Heatsink TO-3 HORZ MNT BLK

ok great thanks for the info.

Yeah they are, but I guess when making a whole for the tubes I can imagine that there won't be enough heatsink left to cool the mosfets properly

I think Canjam was the wrong time for me to post a technical question last weekend, so apologies for trying again (this time more simply):

Is there any reason I should not connect the MMSH star ground, and/or my MMSH chassis, via a dedicated wire, to the third (grounding) pin in an outlet where I have the MMSH power supply (a 2-prong plug) plugged in?

Thanks!

I can't see that it would make any difference. If the power supply is connected via a 2-prong plug, then it's not connected to the house ground anyway.

Wouldn't trying to star ground it to the ground plug of a power supply (if it has one) even be better? As grounding would be optimal then, directly to ground.