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Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp - Page 154

post #2296 of 6048
You can pick up the switched black plastic Neutrik jacks at partsexpress.com.

Cheap and work very well.

It is nice to not have to worry about the jack being isolated if you are using a metal case.
post #2297 of 6048
Proto boards have arrived:

Bottom (remember, we're building the boards upside down with the tube sockets and MOSFETs on the top) -


Top (the tube sockets and MOSFETs go on this side) -


Photoshopped overlay -
post #2298 of 6048
Looks good! Might have to get one when the final boards come out...
post #2299 of 6048
Nice PCB, but i have a little question; do using a PCB produce a (slightly) better sound than from a "point to point wiring" ? (i heard the contrary)

I guess using PCB made the installation faster but what are the differences between the two ? (pros and cons)

By the way i'm planning to buy the mini millet from whiplash.
post #2300 of 6048
The pcbs look very nice, I'll definitely need to pick one up once they are available
post #2301 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omega17TheTrue View Post
Nice PCB, but i have a little question; do using a PCB produce a (slightly) better sound than from a "point to point wiring" ? (i heard the contrary)

I guess using PCB made the installation faster but what are the differences between the two ? (pros and cons)

By the way i'm planning to buy the mini millet from whiplash.
A quality p2p build compared to a quality through-hole PCB will sound the same, period. Also, I have no doubt that the Whiplash versions are quality builds.

The same is not true for digital circuits (DACs, SMD, etc.), but that doesn't apply here.
post #2302 of 6048
shoulda asked this when i put my order in for the proto board. do the normal tube holders fit the pcbs or will we have to get diffrent ones?

btw looks great and cant wait to get my hand one it
post #2303 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yaka View Post
shoulda asked this when i put my order in for the proto board. do the normal tube holders fit the pcbs or will we have to get diffrent ones?

btw looks great and cant wait to get my hand one it
By tube holders, do you mean the sockets?

If so, no - you need PCB tube sockets:

Beezar.com 7-pin Gold ceramic Socket
(SET OF 5) 7 PIN CERAMIC PCB VACUUM TUBE SOCKETS - eBay (item 300293030933 end time Feb-17-09 18:38:27 PST)
Parts ConneXion - The authority on hi-fi DIY parts and components (SOCKET- 59028 or 59029)
post #2304 of 6048
cool ordering those as well then, thx
post #2305 of 6048
Awesome, can't wait til production boards are available. Also, is the new BOM up somewhere? I checked diyforums.org and the SS page was still in "coming soon" status.

Also, silly question(s) but, I'm assuming those two circles above and between C3 and C5 are for LEDs, which way do they go in though? I can't see any marking or symbol for which side positive/neg should go in. Also, can the LED's be wired to run under the tubes for a colored glow? Is that what the hole in the center of the tube is for?

EDIT: nvm I looked on my PCB tube sockets and noticed that the center hole was plugged. So, how do I go about lighting up these tubes with LEDs? Would I just run the LED's by wire somewhere nearby the underside of the tube? or is there a better approach to this?
post #2306 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by iareConfusE View Post
Also, silly question(s) but, I'm assuming those two circles above and between C3 and C5 are for LEDs, which way do they go in though? I can't see any marking or symbol for which side positive/neg should go in. Also, can the LED's be wired to run under the tubes for a colored glow? Is that what the hole in the center of the tube is for?
I assume the LED positive legs go towards RLED.
post #2307 of 6048
Quick question regarding the sockets once soldered to the pcb. When the pcb is mounted in the case (upside down) how much clearance is there between the pcb and the top lid of chassis? Will the sockets protrude above or remain below the lid?

Just wondering for cosmetics purpose when it's time to size the holes on the top side if need to make clearance for the tubes dia or only for the sockets. thanks -zk

post #2308 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by iareConfusE View Post
Awesome, can't wait til production boards are available. Also, is the new BOM up somewhere? I checked diyforums.org and the SS page was still in "coming soon" status.

Also, silly question(s) but, I'm assuming those two circles above and between C3 and C5 are for LEDs, which way do they go in though? I can't see any marking or symbol for which side positive/neg should go in. Also, can the LED's be wired to run under the tubes for a colored glow? Is that what the hole in the center of the tube is for?

EDIT: nvm I looked on my PCB tube sockets and noticed that the center hole was plugged. So, how do I go about lighting up these tubes with LEDs? Would I just run the LED's by wire somewhere nearby the underside of the tube? or is there a better approach to this?
BOM is in work - sorry, it's been a bad week at work.

As for the tube sockets, this will tell you all you need to know (they're all 7-pin sockets):
Millett Hybrid MiniMAX Tube Lights

Quote:
Originally Posted by ludoo View Post
I assume the LED positive legs go towards RLED.
Exactly. The SSMH is negatively grounded, so the side of the LED that has a trace going to it is positive. We'll put "+" signs there for the production boards, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zkool448
Quick question regarding the sockets once soldered to the pcb. When the pcb is mounted in the case (upside down) how much clearance is there between the pcb and the top lid of chassis? Will the sockets protrude above or remain below the lid?

Just wondering for cosmetics purpose when it's time to size the holes on the top side if need to make clearance for the tubes dia or only for the sockets. thanks -zk
I certainly wouldn't cut it that close. The PCB socket diameter is so close to the diameter of the tubes, the difference is not worth worrying about.

EDIT2: Never mind about the bushings - there isn't enough clearance - it's a tiny bit more than a 1/4". So, yes - the tube sockets will stick above the holes. It's best to probably still cut the 3/4" hole, though.

EDIT3: A standard Millett MAX's sockets stick about 0.54" above the surface of the PCB, but this will vary depending on how hard you squish down the socket when you solder it (I squish very hard.) Accounting for the thickness of the plate, about 0.21" of the socket will be above the surface of the top plate (using the Hammond "L" case). Note that the typical PCB 7-pin ceramic socket is 0.725" in diameter. The typical 19J6 tube is about 0.715" in diameter.

Make the hole 3/4".
post #2309 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post
As for the tube sockets, this will tell you all you need to know (they're all 7-pin sockets):
Millett Hybrid MiniMAX Tube Lights
I actually prefer these

01 - More Info for item P-ST7-815

Cheaper, easy to drill holes, and no gold to poison the solder joints. Heat is not an issue with these tubes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post
The SSMH is negatively grounded, so the side of the LED that has a trace going to it is positive. We'll put "+" signs there for the production boards, though.
I guess that's a note to me.
post #2310 of 6048
! I want one of those PCBs. Can't wait until they are in production!
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