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Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp - Page 75

post #1111 of 6048
Here's my build.. did the entire thing from casework to tunage last friday and saturday! I used the same line of case as Nate (sorry, not feeling real original, but at least the layout is a little different ), and all the parts are pretty much directly off of the BOM on Pete's site. Sounds great!








post #1112 of 6048

"That's nice and regulated" - 15V

Quote:
Originally Posted by n_maher View Post
No, and I've seen multiple.
+ YouTube Video
post #1113 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsavitsk View Post
Too much capacitance can cause the PSU trouble. Instead, make it pi filter instead. Or, if you really want to regulate this, dropping a few volts is fine -- there is nothing magical about 48V here.
Agreed - If you use a 1000uF capacitor the power will continue to just pulse and will not start up properly. Couple it with between 220-470uF. Currently, I am using 330uF 200V PSU capacitor and it has no problem with it.
post #1114 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayduke View Post
KT also says standard and it is above the KZ in that chart. Perhaps this logic is flawed?
Note the temperature rating on the KT. That's why it's above everything, but only of "standard" quality.

One thing that's flawed is over-analyzing the different type of capacitors:

There's UPW's and UHE's for Nichicon at Mouser - those are quality power caps.
There's FM's and FC's for Panasonic at DigiKey - those are also quality power caps (FM's are the best, btw).

After that, go searching at Handmade Electronics, Parts Connexion, Michael Percy, or Soniccraft and look to see what they label as an audio-grade "boutique" electrolytic. If you're lucky, you may find them carried at DigiKey or Mouser, but the selection will be limited.
post #1115 of 6048
what's that little circuit board there, bperboy? A tread?
post #1116 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkfloyd4ever View Post
what's that little circuit board there, bperboy? A tread?
Definitely not a TREAD, just looks like a different type/kind of perfboard. Note that he actually uses two pieces, you just can't see much of the second piece.
post #1117 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by n_maher View Post
Definitely not a TREAD, just looks like a different type/kind of perfboard. Note that he actually uses two pieces, you just can't see much of the second piece.
Actually, there's three pieces... it's just a bit of perfboard that i used to connect the ground points... not exactly a ground plane or a star ground. I just connected all the grounds to the perfboard, connected all the perfboards together, and then connected one of them to the power jack ground...
post #1118 of 6048
Nice job, bperboy!
post #1119 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomb View Post
Nice job, bperboy!
Thanks Tom! It's been awhile since I did some DIY... I've been bitten by the bug again.. need MiniMax, need MiniMax!!
post #1120 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by jERiCOh View Post
Finally mine is all done Now I hope I'll find a PSU to give it a try.



wow! that is so clean! i'm inspired to build another one!
post #1121 of 6048
Looks like those 510s need to be isolated.
post #1122 of 6048
Yeah. My bad. You guys saved me a lot trial and error by telling me. Thanks.
post #1123 of 6048
Quote:
Originally Posted by -=Germania=- View Post
<video>
I can only guess and say that you didn't get a real Cisco supply.
post #1124 of 6048
Hey guys, I am doing the separate power supply - what would be an ideal wattage and current? *As in building a separate power supply*

I am currently looking at 25-50W and 0.5-1.2 Amps.
The general rule is that higher power and current is better performance, but if there are limitations to watch for - it would be nice to know.

Thanks!
post #1125 of 6048
the cisco was just shy of 20 watts and was fine. i would have thought 20 was ample.
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