Millett "Starving Student" hybrid amp - Page 72

yea, i didnt really know what they were, so i decided to do a little reading. i have ended up with log 100k dual pots, but do you think 47k would be better (no 50, sos). 22k, and 10 are also available, but i couldnt really find what "xx k" meant. is it just the steps it increases the volume in, or the resistance?

It probably won't make any difference, but 50K is what Pete spec'd. The story is that 100K is more noisy, but 10K or less can sometimes cause hiss. I think that's why 50K is often considered optimum for headphone amplifier use.

so 47k it is then. thanks again for all the help. I should order almost all the part tomorrow. just got the power supply, chasis, tubes + sockets, and the mofset mounter left. man, stuff is expensive in the uk. the bill is around £40, not including the stuff above. it should reach £60 easily, and then i need to buy the soldering iron and multimeter. easily £80.

From the tube's perspective, lower is better. This resistor (or pot in this case) references the grid to ground. Grid chokes, for instance, have a DCR in the tens of ohms, which is actually close to ideal. You want high, however, for the sake of the driving stage as it makes for an easier load. The input Z of a tube's grid is in the Mohms range, so the pot really sets the input impedance of the stage. Too high can be trouble due to noise, but 100K is still going to be well below the tube's own noise in this case. 250K is still probably fine, and I often use 1M for guitar stages to keep coupling cap size down.

There is mine. I'm done with the case work and I'm still working inside. Better pictures will follow when everything will be put together.
BTW, I've been looking for the Cisco Wallwart around and I can't find one at less than 40$ shipped to Canada. If someone have an extra one and wants to sell it at a resonable price... let me know.

^^^

Really like that casework!!

+1

That's really cute, and neat... so tiny.

+2

I just want to maybe throw something up here.

Recently, I received my Zhaolu and am now using it to handle the digital inputs from my computer (Auzen Cinema) and Marantz CD5001). Well, even with the op-amp upgrades to the 2.5C, the millet amp is decidedly better in every way. Granted, my build differs from the schematic a bit

The combo of the Marantz CDP, Zhaolu and Millet is really quite good, exceptional even.

I am actually going to build another one of these, even more boutique and incorporating some of my modifications in the initial build (instead of as add-ons). The current one is likely to go to a family member (dad or brother) - whomever wants to pay the parts cost (more than the $65 I estimated originally - believe me)

Yeah, my current one has had a color change to a flat black and a matching knob to the Zhaolu. I question why I had that weird color scheme in the first place......Look for the new one to be a stacked design in a bamboo enclosure with the power supply in a separate case below the amp. My hope is to take this design to the upper limits of what it is capable of. Then move on to something nicer and more complicated. This one is cheap and easy to mod!

Or, you could just say, "stick a fork in me, I'm done" and enjoy it.

I coulda stopped at Macbook>iBasso D1>Darkvoice 336i or CD5001>336i and been done $24,000 ago...

[Ahhhh - post 4666 - I'm evil]

I do have a Millett SS kit coming from rds now... I hope I can figure out the build...

-=Germania=-,

How did your first build differ from the schematic?
How did you modify it?

Where would be the fun in that?

really like the casework, especially the heatsink. those screws must have been a pain to get in, with the heatsink right above it.

Then why the hell mention it?

Oh right...

I think she was responding to HA's advice to stop now and just enjoy her gear.

As if a DIYer could do that lol