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Twisted Pear Buffalo Sabre DAC - Page 14

post #196 of 1283
7/2/08 at 11:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by peterpan188 View Post
Russ,

Couple questions, here it comes.

You mentions previously that the buffalo kit can come unassembled. Do you have a estimate date of availability on it? How about the price.

Reading the manual, I am slightly confused about I2S input. Is it true that I have to rewrite the firmware to enable I2S input? I plan to combine the USB module along.

This is kind of side track. For your Joshua Tree, is it possible to change the input impedance (I will need 1k)?

Thanks for the great work!

Peter
We don't currently have plans for an unassembled Buffalo. There are issues with the chip's moisture sensitivity. I also don't feel comfortable mounting just the chip and not being able to test it ($45 each chip).

There is no programming required for I2S input. Just flip the S/PDIF inout switch (turn it off), select the desired mode with the dip switches (see manual for details), and attach BCK, LRCK, and Data and GND and you are ready to go.

You can create any input/output impedance you want for the JT by customizing the resistor values. We will have a tool for calculating them at some point.

Why such a low input impedance?
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post #197 of 1283
7/3/08 at 10:46pm
Thread Starter 
Are there going to be moisture concerns after the DAC is assembled? I live in the jungle, very humid. Had no problems with any quality components yet, whereas mainstream DVD players and such cease to work after much shorter periods than when I lived in Canada. If this will be a concern, might have to go with the Opus.
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post #198 of 1283
7/3/08 at 10:59pm
No, the moisture is only an issue when reflow soldering the boards during assembly. Its not an issue (beyond normal) after that.
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post #199 of 1283
7/3/08 at 11:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianDonegan View Post
We don't currently have plans for an unassembled Buffalo. There are issues with the chip's moisture sensitivity. I also don't feel comfortable mounting just the chip and not being able to test it ($45 each chip).

There is no programming required for I2S input. Just flip the S/PDIF inout switch (turn it off), select the desired mode with the dip switches (see manual for details), and attach BCK, LRCK, and Data and GND and you are ready to go.

You can create any input/output impedance you want for the JT by customizing the resistor values. We will have a tool for calculating them at some point.

Why such a low input impedance?
Thanks Russ.

Will you still have the pre-order anytime soon for the DAC? Can I place a pre-order for the attenuator as the same time?

I am going to use the JT for my Aleph P1.7 at the output side, NP himself specifies 800ohms, so I will take 1k for the convenience.

Thanks,
Peter
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post #200 of 1283
7/3/08 at 11:22pm
One other note, this issues has nothing in particular to do with the ESS Sabre chip. Almost any SMT IC is subject to the same issue, even the Wolfson chips
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post #201 of 1283
7/3/08 at 11:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by peterpan188 View Post
Thanks Russ.

Will you still have the pre-order anytime soon for the DAC? Can I place a pre-order for the attenuator as the same time?

I am going to use the JT for my Aleph P1.7 at the output side, NP himself specifies 800ohms, so I will take 1k for the convenience.

Thanks,
Peter
here is no way to set a constant input impedance with the JT (at least not on its own). It will always vary. In its stock form it vary from about 2.5K to about 10K. The output impedance is constant at 750 ohms.

I don't think the higher impedance would hurt the P1.7.

Cheers!
Russ
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post #202 of 1283
7/3/08 at 11:28pm
Quote:
Thanks Russ.

Will you still have the pre-order anytime soon for the DAC? Can I place a pre-order for the attenuator as the same time?

I am going to use the JT for my Aleph P1.7 at the output side, NP himself specifies 800ohms, so I will take 1k for the convenience.
Your welcome Bob

I will probably open up pre-orders again in about 2 weeks. Whether the JT will be available depends on how far along we are with coding/testing it.
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post #203 of 1283
7/4/08 at 3:05am
Teases
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post #204 of 1283
7/4/08 at 7:03am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ White View Post
One other note, this issues has nothing in particular to do with the ESS Sabre chip. Almost any SMT IC is subject to the same issue, even the Wolfson chips


Good to hear.
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post #205 of 1283
7/7/08 at 12:09pm
I'm stuck with my Buffalo build and I would need some help from you guys.

I already have the following parts on order:
Buffalo DAC + IVY Active I/V Stage + Power Supplies Combination
Opus USB Receiver Module
2 X TOSLINK Optical Input Module Kit
2 X Avel Lindberg Transformer

I'm thinking of using the following case:
All black Hi-Fi 2000 Slim line 1U w/ 10mm panel (40-435-280 mm / rack size) plus some milling and custom case work.

Is that suitable case for buffalo DAC? I was hoping to find silver aluminum case, but I just didn't find anything better than all black Hi-Fi 2000 Slim line case.

Second problem would be input switching. My plan is to have 2 x toslink, S/PDIF and USB input. First idea was to use Goldpoint selector switch or DACT CT3 audio selector switch, but that might be overkill. Any idea how to switch S/PDIF to Buffalo?

Third problem would be output. I know that I can use balanced and SE at the same time, but I would like to have 2 or 3 SE outputs switched.

And finally power filtering. What kind of filtering would be recommended?

I'm trying to build the best Buffalo DAC for my needs (and future), and money is not a major object. I just need a bit of help to max out my buffalo DAC.

And any recommendation towards beautiful knobs, switches, rca & xlr connectors would help me a lot. I think I might use neutrik chassis connectors, unless I find something more suitable.

I know that Brian has some new toys coming up for all of us, but in the mean time, please help me out a bit

Oh, and I might do some led indicators to power and inputs & outputs.

After drooling over Ferrari's case works for a year, I'm definitely trying to build something similar
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post #206 of 1283
7/7/08 at 12:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jantze View Post
I'm stuck with my Buffalo build and I would need some help from you guys.

I already have the following parts on order:
Buffalo DAC + IVY Active I/V Stage + Power Supplies Combination
Opus USB Receiver Module
2 X TOSLINK Optical Input Module Kit
2 X Avel Lindberg Transformer

I'm thinking of using the following case:
All black Hi-Fi 2000 Slim line 1U w/ 10mm panel (40-435-280 mm / rack size) plus some milling and custom case work.

Is that suitable case for buffalo DAC? I was hoping to find silver aluminum case, but I just didn't find anything better than all black Hi-Fi 2000 Slim line case.
I have my Opus inside the very same case:



Lots of space there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jantze View Post
Second problem would be input switching. My plan is to have 2 x toslink, S/PDIF and USB input. First idea was to use Goldpoint selector switch or DACT CT3 audio selector switch, but that might be overkill. Any idea how to switch S/PDIF to Buffalo?
Twisted Pear has a solution for this coming up. Otherwise some kind of relay switch would work, like the Darwin.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jantze View Post
Third problem would be output. I know that I can use balanced and SE at the same time, but I would like to have 2 or 3 SE outputs switched.
Not sure why you would want to do this. Care to elaborate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jantze View Post
And finally power filtering. What kind of filtering would be recommended?
I'll let someone else answer this. I dont use a filter in mine and it works fine. Maybe I hav good lines in my house


Quote:
Originally Posted by jantze View Post
And any recommendation towards beautiful knobs, switches, rca & xlr connectors would help me a lot. I think I might use neutrik chassis connectors, unless I find something more suitable.
I use Hifi2000 knobs on all my builds. Ill leave it up to you if you find them beautiful, I like them at least Neutrik makes a wide selection if XLRs so thats what I use. RCAs is not Neutriks strong side, I think they just have two versions. I bought CMC RCAs from THLAudio and they are really sturdy and professional lookig. Plus they are cheap.
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post #207 of 1283
7/7/08 at 1:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMajestic2 View Post
I have my Opus inside the very same case:



Lots of space there.
Looks good to me, I guess I'll go with that case then, unless someone shows me a better one

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMajestic2 View Post
Twisted Pear has a solution for this coming up. Otherwise some kind of relay switch would work, like the Darwin.
Brian told me about the upcoming solution, but let's see what happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMajestic2 View Post
Not sure why you would want to do this. Care to elaborate?
To feed Woo Audio WA6 & Corda Opera, and you never know what happens in the future I'm just lazy. But after modding my WA6, I might go for tubes for my home theater or soon to be stereo system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMajestic2 View Post
I'll let someone else answer this. I dont use a filter in mine and it works fine. Maybe I hav good lines in my house
I'm still not sure do I even want to have a power filtering, but many builder use some kind of filtering, and I thought that I could look in to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMajestic2 View Post
I use Hifi2000 knobs on all my builds. Ill leave it up to you if you find them beautiful, I like them at least Neutrik makes a wide selection if XLRs so thats what I use. RCAs is not Neutriks strong side, I think they just have two versions. I bought CMC RCAs from THLAudio and they are really sturdy and professional lookig. Plus they are cheap.
My initial idea was to use the same chassis on xlr & rca, but it seems that I'll run out of space. I guess I just use some other RCA's.

Thank you for you input, I have been lurking for too long and I have too many ideas how to complete my build. Just trying to find the proper parts and the right case to finish this before Christmas
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post #208 of 1283
7/7/08 at 8:10pm
Thread Starter 
Space for all those connectors will be an issue. I have gone through the cable space and cost issue and can honestly say that NO connector is the best connector. I found better results with good quality termination blocks or even better is soldered directly to the switches. My preamps always look like an octopuss, but I save huge dollars in sound degrading connectors. If you don't want to direct wire them to your amps, you can use half as many connectors and have no problems for space on the direct wired preamp. I prefer by a large margin the open detailed sound that I get when my goodies are wired point to point. I notice enough of a difference in sound that it felt right to put all that money I saved into albums instead of $35/set of 4 RCA of any quality.

I loved the sound SOOOO much, I sold everything except the cans and I am starting fresh. Two boxes will house power suppplies in one and a DAC/preamp/HTPC/SACD transport/headamp/active Xover/2-FirstWatt amps in the second case. If I build these as seperate components I would need a cable for the S/PDIF from the computer and SACD(not true DSD now), pair of IC's for the DAC=>preamp, one set to the HP amp, and three sets for the crossover and two speaker amps. That is two digital cables and five RCA IC's. Figure in that if I DIY these I need 4, 75ohm male connectors for the digital at a cost of around $35. I need 5 sets of male RCA's at $35/set for another $175. I am at $210 and I still need females for the DAC/preamp/xover/amps so basically double it. I would have now spent $410 plus shipping on connectors which degrade the sound and will not let me run pure DSD and I2S to the DAC for another step down in SQ. I will also need about 20% as much wire since it is all internal.

Now I see that this is not that practical for ease of removal of cables(termination blocks are easy), but it is hard to argue that it is nice to get paid for better sound. In your situation you could run three permanent preamp lines with RCA's and XLR's to connect to the amps on their end. Same goes for the sources. I would also consider removing the female RCA's on the commercial gear as well and point to point the whole thing. It really does sound a whole lot better.
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post #209 of 1283
8/5/08 at 8:51am
This thread has gone a bit quiet, so I thought I'd revive it since I know that a whole heap of Buffalo boards were shipped over the weekend. I'm keen to show off the progress on my all-but-finished casework prior to the arrival of my gear, as well as hear back from what others are doing with their builds......

I went with the Buffalo, IVY and power supplies combo and I also bought an additional LCDPS to power all the accessories and LEDs. Key accessories are a TOSLINK module and an OTTO which will perform SPDIF switching. The OTTO will be controlled by a Bulgin latched switch on the front panel. The LEDs on the front panel will also be switched by the OTTO.

Power comes in and is DPDT switched at the back by an all-in-one filtered and double fused IEC receptacle. The two transformers are 15VA 2x0-15V that are currently putting out 18.1 VAC unloaded. RCA jacks are from Neutrik, XLR connectors are from Amphenol.

The case is a 1U rack mount from Altronics. The front and rear panels are aluminium, and the sides and base are very tough steel... drilling the base has been a very steep learning curve! The case feet are from Jaycar.

Some pics:






So speak up, Buffalo builders...... let us all know what you've been up to!
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post #210 of 1283
8/5/08 at 9:20am
Nice case Beefy!!!

That's going to be sweeeeeet.

How are things fitting vertically?

Cheers!
Russ
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