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Ultimate Ears Triple Fi 10 Appreciation Thread - Page 558

post #8356 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeDoe View Post


Do you roll em before insertion? As opposed to just shoving em in there. Shouldn't be wearing out that fast...
 
Yes, I do roll them before inserting.

Maybe since I listen to them intermittently, as opposed to a long listening session, they get soiled easily...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellkitchen View Post
 

I suggest you to try the Sony Hybrid tips. They aren't made of  foam but they are pretty comfortable and cheaper than Comply's

 


Thanks for the tip. In fact, I was actually thinking about giving them a try.

Just ordered a pack.


Edited by BadBoySimran - 10/15/13 at 1:13pm
post #8357 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadBoySimran View Post
 

Maybe since I listen to them intermittently, as opposed to a long listening session, they get soiled easily...

 


Thanks for the tip. In fact, I was actually thinking about giving them a try.

Just ordered a pack.

 

Good choice. In the past, I sold my first pair of TF's for fit problems. Recently I've decided to give them a second chance.This time I've bought a pair of Sony Hybrid for 3£ and TF have become a lot more comfortable.

 

Let us know how they work for you

post #8358 of 9031
I am all about the Sony tips with the triplefi 10. They're way more comfortable than the comply tips, IMO
post #8359 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by onefatsurfer View Post

I am all about the Sony tips with the triplefi 10. They're way more comfortable than the comply tips, IMO

 

Quoted.. an issue with the comply's is the wax that is hard to remove.. I prefere silicon which is easier to clean and that somehow sound better to me.. 

post #8360 of 9031

Theyre actually very easy to clean: Use a q-tip to brush off wax from the comply tip

post #8361 of 9031

I have not used my TF10s since picking them up for a great price. Started using them this weekend, and very impressed. Thumbs up

post #8362 of 9031

not sure if somebody already posted the reason why the UE stock cable lose it's life early.....I found it, it's not on the 3.5mm plug side but the other end....will try post the pictures. poor design by UE.

But there's a fix as well if you don't want to invest $29-$125 on the new cable.

post #8363 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn71 View Post

not sure if somebody already posted the reason why the UE stock cable lose it's life early.....I found it, it's not on the 3.5mm plug side but the other end....will try post the pictures. poor design by UE.
But there's a fix as well if you don't want to invest $29-$125 on the new cable.

Fire away! This could be helpful to many.

Interesting though is I've had my TF10 for three years my original cable is still going strong. Makes me.wonder if UE has had some low quality batches of cables at times.
post #8364 of 9031
The stock cable on the TF10 is a true crime! Can't wait till the replacement I just bought comes in.
post #8365 of 9031

Bought a FiiO replacement and it was DOA :( 

 

Have a sunricky one, but the quality is quite poor !

post #8366 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by marko93101 View Post
 

Bought a FiiO replacement and it was DOA :( 

 

Have a sunricky one, but the quality is quite poor !

 

Not surprised at all, I have been through 2 Fiio RC UE 1 and a Dark Lord.

post #8367 of 9031

Anyone knows a shop that sells replacement cables and ships them to Canada?

post #8368 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poak View Post
 

Anyone knows a shop that sells replacement cables and ships them to Canada?

 

 

Just stock cables? Cause there are people here that make and sell better ones.

post #8369 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn71 View Post
 

not sure if somebody already posted the reason why the UE stock cable lose it's life early.....I found it, it's not on the 3.5mm plug side but the other end....will try post the pictures. poor design by UE.

But there's a fix as well if you don't want to invest $29-$125 on the new cable.

After serving for almost a year and half my stock tf10 cable started to sound only on right channel and sounds in and out on the left channel.tested thru a digital MM revealed a short.


Here is a posting of fixing a UE tf10 stock cable and some pictures taken during the post-mortem process of left channel cable at the earpiece end.Initially the 90 degree/L type 3.5mm jack was suspected but then thru some self brain-storming sessions:wink: and autopsy, the left side memory wire was confirmed the real culprit(Metal Maniac). Please bear with the pictures,not sure why my SGP 5" pulled my legs.My apologies.

 

what next? well I just took a small sharp knife to slice the plastic jacket,ripped apart,from where memory wire starts (picture 1) until the entry of the plastic shell where the 2 pins are mounted.The plastic shell is glued strong,but can be seperated nicely using the knife after blowing some hot air over it.

 

 

After removing the plastic shell,the metal wire is seen just bare hooked(yes no glue just small L shape) onto a hole that is centered on the white plastic(picture @ bottom right). Now this is where the short happens between the 3,the +ve,the -ve and the metal wires.basically the metal wire bridges them, over a period of time...I mean wear and tear of the cable on the memory wire..

These 3 wires together are held by a small clamp(picture @ bottom right) just before the 2 pin plug assembly(white plastic). It was easy to slide out the clamp, needed to remove the metal wire completely.Now our craftsman has been re-assigned the job of checking the short, both between the 2 pins (no shorts) and individually (continuity test,that is -ve to ground(sleeve) and +ve to Tip - TRS) from 3.5mm jack to the ear piece pin ends and found to be good,now.


Fix: This is for those who want to retain the stock cables by spending max an hour and want to save some $$ and also to those who might wish to keep this as a backup after fixing.The Fix is so simple as many of you would guess!

 

Fix1 - Just glue one end of the metal wire to the 2 pin plastic assembly(white). Remember we are just using the same original metal wire here and bonding it instead of hooking it back to the hole.
Slide-in the 2 wires(+ve and -ve conductors) to a wire jacket* of length that we already cut stock cable apart.This is the jacket that blends with the stock cable.
Cut 2 small (say about an inch) heat shrink tubes one each for +ve and -ve conductor wires that acts as insulation between 2 conductors and slide in the +ve and -ve conductors on each tube.
Then solder the +ve and -ve wires together.(+ve and -ve from long end to corresponding +ve and -ve earpiece end)
Heat shrink both the tubes.
Connect to your source and check for the audio.
finally slide/adjust the wire jacket to cover the 2 joints that we worked on.


Fix2 - Remove the memory wire on the both channels (bad and good) by doing the post-mortem as explained in the begining of this post,thus having both sides no memory cables. Best for those who are better comfortable wearing straight down as there's no memory wires.

 

Fix3 - Do as Fix2 and use a pair of after market ear-hooks.


I haven't done the fixing part yet......but I'm planned for Fix1.

 

*  wire jacket can be used from ur electrical wiring or from broken earphone's cable alike.

post #8370 of 9031
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn71 View Post

After serving for almost a year and half my stock tf10 cable started to sound only on right channel and sounds in and out on the left channel.tested thru a digital MM revealed a short.


Here is a posting of fixing a UE tf10 stock cable and some pictures taken during the post-mortem process of left channel cable at the earpiece end.Initially the 90 degree/L type 3.5mm jack was suspected but then thru some self brain-storming sessions;) and autopsy, the left side memory wire was confirmed the real culprit(Metal Maniac). Please bear with the pictures,not sure why my SGP 5" pulled my legs.My apologies.

what next? well I just took a small sharp knife to slice the plastic jacket,ripped apart,from where memory wire starts (picture 1) until the entry of the plastic shell where the 2 pins are mounted.The plastic shell is glued strong,but can be seperated nicely using the knife after blowing some hot air over it.




After removing the plastic shell,the metal wire is seen just bare hooked(yes no glue just small L shape) onto a hole that is centered on the white plastic(picture @ bottom right). Now this is where the short happens between the 3,the +ve,the -ve and the metal wires.basically the metal wire bridges them, over a period of time...I mean wear and tear of the cable on the memory wire..
These 3 wires together are held by a small clamp(picture @ bottom right) just before the 2 pin plug assembly(white plastic). It was easy to slide out the clamp, needed to remove the metal wire completely.Now our craftsman has been re-assigned the job of checking the short, both between the 2 pins (no shorts) and individually (continuity test,that is -ve to ground(sleeve) and +ve to Tip - TRS) from 3.5mm jack to the ear piece pin ends and found to be good,now.


Fix: This is for those who want to retain the stock cables by spending max an hour and want to save some $$ and also to those who might wish to keep this as a backup after fixing.The Fix is so simple as many of you would guess!

Fix1 - Just glue one end of the metal wire to the 2 pin plastic assembly(white). Remember we are just using the same original metal wire here and bonding it instead of hooking it back to the hole.

Slide-in the 2 wires(+ve and -ve conductors) to a wire jacket* of length that we already cut stock cable apart.This is the jacket that blends with the stock cable.

Cut 2 small (say about an inch) heat shrink tubes one each for +ve and -ve conductor wires that acts as insulation between 2 conductors and slide in the +ve and -ve conductors on each tube.

Then solder the +ve and -ve wires together.(+ve and -ve from long end to corresponding +ve and -ve earpiece end)

Heat shrink both the tubes.

Connect to your source and check for the audio.

finally slide/adjust the wire jacket to cover the 2 joints that we worked on.


Fix2 - Remove the memory wire on the both channels (bad and good) by doing the post-mortem as explained in the begining of this post,thus having both sides no memory cables. Best for those who are better comfortable wearing straight down as there's no memory wires.

Fix3 - Do as Fix2 and use a pair of after market ear-hooks.


I haven't done the fixing part yet......but I'm planned for Fix1.

*  wire jacket can be used from ur electrical wiring or from broken earphone's cable alike.

Damn, you should be a cable surgeon wink.gif very impressive.
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