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Does anyone have the iPhone LOD pinout? - Page 13

post #181 of 264
Pinout is the same. I don't see any reason the left channel would not work on the iphone but would work on the nano. If you're getting any audio at all it means you've hooked up the resistor correctly. It has to be something with the left channel connection - maybe loose or something. Have you tried reflowing it?
post #182 of 264


Absolute LEGEND !!

My headphones sounded like they were dying (well what seemed to be the mic). The vocals were ridiculously quiet and I'd get a lot of distortion. Needless to say I was major ***'d off. So I figured no probs I'll just get myself some new headphones. I shoped around for iPod/iPhone headphones and spent a pretty penny on a few pairs. Of course the Iphone jack is completely different to the iPod jack. I found a rather neat (temporary) solution via 'trimming' the rubber of the jack, this was the plug would be more recessed into the socket and thus appear as the 3.5mm iPhone jack. It sufficed but was nowhere near as good as it's predeccesor.

So then I soldered new headphones to the original 'stock' iPhone headphones. After much buggering about I found out that I could only get the left channel to work appropriately while the right one had to be disconnected completely. Otherwise I would get the low vocals and much infuriating distortion.

Now I searched the web for the pinout of the iPhone cable plug. I figured with my extensive electronics background something like this would be easy. Well the hardest thing was to actually get another sync cable that didn't cost my an arm and a leg. Thankfully the second hand dealer had a few in stock so I grabbed both. Got my pliers out and got to work.

Much (Much..much) thanks to the person above I could now make a suitable replacement for my headphone problems.

I used NO RESISTORS.
To test that it was working I needed NO SOLDERING.

The only soldering I plan to do is to actually physically solder my headphones of choice to this wonderful new addition to my iPhone accessories.

As I have the chance to listen to music while I work, I am eternally grateful.



Quote:
Pin 1 = Ground (Connect to Pin 11)
Pin 2 = Audio Ground
Pin 3 = Right Audio
Pin 4 = Left Audio
Pin 11 = Serial Ground (Connect to Pin 1)
Quickly a heads up for other frustrated folks..Pins 1 & 2 are already internally connected in the iPhone so if like me you were wondering how the flip am I going to connect all those wires in that small amount of space it's not required.

I used the sync cable and did thus;
Pulled out all of the pins from the plug, i.e. the USB 5V GND and DATA + & -. You are left with the following wires.. RED, GREEN, WHITE, and BLACK. I attached RED to the RIGHT Channel on pin 3. The white wire to the Left channel on pin 4. The BLACK wire to Pin 1.. Then last but not least the GREEN wire to Pin 11. But what about the connection from Pin 1 to Pin 11 you say, well you don't have to make that connection at the plug connector do you. Then with my headphones..
RED (+) BLACK (GND) --> Right headphone
WHITE (+) BLACK (GND) --> Left headphone
Of course not to forget..
BLACK (Pin 1) also connected to GREEN (Pin 11).

Also if you choose YES to airplane mode you can't receive or make calls which is rather annoying. So I chose NO and my music playing capabilities weren't (thankfully) affected.

I'm thinking it may be wise to also connect an additional standard headphone socket to the headphone wires so that if I want to use PC speakers I can just put that plug into the new socket.. viola iPhone music on the speakers without the headache of messing with dodgy plugs.

The only problem I've got and will hopefully resolve soon is not being able to adjust the volume on the headphones due to the LINE OUT being at max volume all the time. I think a resistor divider network with a potentiometer should do the trick nicely. I'm pretty sure there are headphones out there with built in volume adjustment that probably have that very same setup.

I don't usually rant like this but I am exceptionally happy.. no more friggin distortion and low vocals for me..

Couldn't help myself..


I ripped the plug out of some old speakers, pretty chuffed with how it turned out.

Next project;
Fixing the focus on the iPhone camera...grr
post #183 of 264
Yeah the camera can't focus worth sh*t at anything less than a foot. They make cases that have a small lens built in for macro mode, but the camera quality is so bad it's not even worth it. Looking forward to the 3.2MP camera on the 4th Gen.
post #184 of 264
**UPDATE**
Now has volume control..



Unfortunately the wires are ridiculously thin and they broke on the first night.
post #185 of 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hase View Post
Well now you have me terribly confused. I said and you quoted, "1st Gen." Is it better if I type "1G 8GB"? I'm not sure that's relevant or any clearer.

At any rate, before we keep saying that the 68k solution provides "universal, no warning" function, I'd like to hear someone with a "1G 4GB" or a "1G 8GB" attest to its warningless function. If someone can do that, I'll keep at it, but for now, I don't think that 68k is a "universal solution."

(Caveat for clarity again, 68k LOD works, but pops up warning for me.)
I found that 68K was working part of the time for me. I tested the resistor value using a potentiometer and found that a slightly higher resistance was a lot better. I ended up using 78K but I think anything in the 75-85K ohm range will do. More on a post if you want...

Carl Hutzler’s Blog » This accessory is not made to work with iPhone and the 68K Ohm resistor
post #186 of 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Times View Post
I've just finished this and tested this on the iPhone 3G, iPod Touch 2G, iPod Nano and 3rd Gen iPod. Works flawlessly on all. No messages on iPhone or iPod Touch. I used a single 68kohm resistor just to make it easy.

I think everyone can now consider this the universal solution, thank you all for your advice/input.

PS joining pin 11 and 15 can simply be done by bending the pin legs. Easier than soldering an extra jumper wire. Also, my question (re echo) a few posts up was answered by the fact that after re-inerting pins 2-4 after soldering, they had come out slightly just before gluing. I recommend not pulling them out, just soldering whilst they're in.

I tried this method and it did not work on my ipod touch 2nd gen. Can anyone help me out on this?
post #187 of 264
Hmmm, I've never had it not work, but I read on this forum somewhere where a guy found it to work at home on his Touch, but not in the car. He did some tests and said if you bump the 68k up a bit, it will also work in a vehicle environment (eg line out to a car stereo). From memory it was something like 73k or 75k - around there.

But if it's not working just plugging in to a portable amp, I'd suspect the resistor isn't your problem. What is the tolerance of your resistor, and have you tested for the actual value? I'm using 5% resistors @ 68k with no issues, also found 1%s were fine.

If you're unsure about you you constructed it, can you post a pic so we can have a look and maybe troubleshoot?
post #188 of 264
Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Times View Post
Hmmm, I've never had it not work, but I read on this forum somewhere where a guy found it to work at home on his Touch, but not in the car. He did some tests and said if you bump the 68k up a bit, it will also work in a vehicle environment (eg line out to a car stereo). From memory it was something like 73k or 75k - around there.

But if it's not working just plugging in to a portable amp, I'd suspect the resistor isn't your problem. What is the tolerance of your resistor, and have you tested for the actual value? I'm using 5% resistors @ 68k with no issues, also found 1%s were fine.

If you're unsure about you you constructed it, can you post a pic so we can have a look and maybe troubleshoot?

Well, here is what I did. I connected the pin 11 with pin 15 by bending it and with a little bit of solder. Next I solder one end of the 68k resistor to pin 21 and the other end to the joined 11/15. Then, I solder Left with left and Right with right and audio ground with audio ground (pin 2). So, in total there is only 6 pin from the ipod connector that is needed right?
Please verify if this is correct?
Thanks
post #189 of 264
That's correct, although you should probably solder your ground wire to the bridged pin 11/15 to save clutter on the left side. But that should definitely work. Is it not working, or is it working but you're still getting the warning message?

Oh and LOL, I read my last post and realised the reference was only 2 posts higher my bad!
post #190 of 264
I mess with it again and broke pin 21 =[ <= noob at diy
Well, I order a new ipod connector and hopefully I will do it correctly this time.
post #191 of 264
Always handy to keep a few pins spare that you've taken out, just in case. They're easily removable/replaceable if they break off.

I prefer to bend the resistor's leg around to meet the two pins so you don't have to bend any pins.
post #192 of 264
Anyone know if the LOD output below is the same for the new iPhone 3gs?

1-2 ground
3- right
4- left
link 15 to 11 & connect a 68kohm resistor from this link to 21

and with this there should be no error message?
post #193 of 264
I assume so (but haven't tested). Be mindful that using 11 or 15 as ground is far easier to work with that 1 and/or 2. Don't use them at all.
post #194 of 264
Im also struggling to find a 30 pin dock connector here in the uk, neither ebay nor any of our electrical stores seem to have just the basic 30 pin dock connector.

Any ideas where i could get this vital component?

I was looking forward to splicing and dicing my old firewire connector (as its useless nowadays), but other forum posts suggest this is pretty impossible as Apple add a generous dollop of glue and the pins are very, very small.
post #195 of 264
Try Qables yet?
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