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Does anyone have the iPhone LOD pinout? - Page 12

post #166 of 246
3/9/09 at 8:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
68K works on my iPhone 2G 16GB. I'm not sure if you mean 1G or 2G because the 1G came in 4GB and 8GB while the 2G came in 8GB and 16GB.
Well now you have me terribly confused. I said and you quoted, "1st Gen." Is it better if I type "1G 8GB"? I'm not sure that's relevant or any clearer.

At any rate, before we keep saying that the 68k solution provides "universal, no warning" function, I'd like to hear someone with a "1G 4GB" or a "1G 8GB" attest to its warningless function. If someone can do that, I'll keep at it, but for now, I don't think that 68k is a "universal solution."

(Caveat for clarity again, 68k LOD works, but pops up warning for me.)
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post #167 of 246
3/9/09 at 11:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
I suggest you lose the ground wire near the audio pins and solder your ground to pins 11/15. It frees up the wiring near the audio pins, plus it makes for a more solid connection. Not the worse thing in the world, but it's more mechanically reliable that way.
Agree, mechanically that would be a heap better. I was just hesitant because 1 and 2 were classified 'audio ground' and 11, 15 etc as ground. Is there a difference, or do they all eventually lead to the same point?
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post #168 of 246
3/10/09 at 12:16am
Edit; tried it, works a treat, always learning on this forum.

As stated, looks stronger, especially since the majority of wires now point straight out.

Thanks.
LL
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post #169 of 246
3/10/09 at 12:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
I suggest you lose the ground wire near the audio pins and solder your ground to pins 11/15.
While this works, pin 11/15 are regular ground, not audio ground like the other pin. It may not cause a noticeable difference, but if you're already soldering two pins in an area you might as well do a third. It's not that bad.
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post #170 of 246
3/10/09 at 10:43am
Juaquin:

I've found 0 Ohms between pins 1, 2, 15, 16, 29 and 30 with my DMM in quick tests. I can double check this later, but I recall them being the same signal. Plus, I would say that it is that bad. Unless the cord is fastened and secured reliably, the ground pin can easily short the right channel with only a little bit of movement.

Hase:

I made the distinction because not everybody does, so I wanted it to be clear that it actually was the 1G. Did you get your iPhone before the infamous price drop? 68K works on my 2G, and it seems that it doesn't work on the 1G. Is that clearer?

Good Times:

Glad to hear it. Enjoy your new and improved LOD.
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post #171 of 246
3/11/09 at 3:00pm
By that same logic the left and right pins could easily short. I just solder them carefully, check that there is not continuity between the wires, and then put in a dab of hot glue to prevent them from shorting later on due to movement.

As far as regular vs audio ground, on some iPod models they may or may not be connected, but I do know that the pinout lists them separately so personally I wouldn't play around with it.
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post #172 of 246
3/11/09 at 3:30pm
Even if the left and right channels are next to each other, reducing the clutter will still help. It is DIY after all, so do whatever you please. I'm just offering another option. I don't want to say too much before double-checking, so I'll post more after I check my iPod logic board collection tonight.

Besides, what fun is DIY if you're not playing around with things?
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post #173 of 246
3/11/09 at 11:29pm
I checked my iPod nano 1G, iPod 3G, iPod 4G click wheel, iPod 4G photo and iPhone 2G. They all have continuity between pins 1, 2, 15, 16, 29 and 30. I think it's safe to say the rest of the iPod and iPhone models follow the same scheme, but if you want to be a real stickler, you can check it out yourself. I used Ridax's breakout board for quick checking.

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post #174 of 246
3/12/09 at 12:03am
Sounds good to me. My only reservation is that you already have a resistor soldered to 11/15, and trying to solder another piece without losing the first is a real PITA. 29 or 30 might be nice but it's all the way across the connector.
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post #175 of 246
3/12/09 at 12:26am
That's great news, thanks for checking. My LODs were starting to look a bit crooked from the wire exit!

I found that soldering to the 11/15 junction was actually better, because it gave them a bit more 'meat'. I join them by simply bending them together (no joiner wire) so put the resistor wire on top and the ground wire at the base. It feels good. And used your hot glue trick Juaquin, just to ensure it held.
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post #176 of 246
3/12/09 at 10:49am
Good Times:

Another thing you may consider is connecting the shield to ground on the source side. I can't really tell, but it looks like you're using Starquad or Mini-quad. If you are, you should connect the shield to ground on the source side and not connect the shield on the amplifier side.

Sound System Interconnection

See number 8 about two-thirds down the page. Starquad (and similar cables) will have more than 2 conductors within the shield, so it's not a perfect comparison; you get the idea. I use two conductors for ground and shield it only on the source side. That way interference isn't introduced into your amplifier as easily. Some of it may still get in there with this method, but at least you did what you could to minimize it.

Here's an LOD I made a few days ago.
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post #177 of 246
3/12/09 at 7:47pm
Thanks man. Yeah I'm using star quad (equiv Aussie version!) with the rubber sheath replaced with techflex on that one. That one's terminated with RCA on the other end - will give it a go.
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post #178 of 246
3/15/09 at 5:53am
Okay, so I feel as if I've sufficiently scanned the thread before posting this, if not, please feel free to flame and point me in the right direction.

I bought a Belkin GoStudio, which, according to Belkin, and the entire internets, does not work for the iPhone and 2nd Gen Touch. I have a 2nd Gen Touch. I know that the pinout is different, but can anyone tell me exactly what I would have to wire to create an adapter to work with the original pinout, so that I can use the touch with the Belkin GoStudio?

Here's what I figure I need to use it:
1. Line in - R
2. Line in - L
3. GND
4. Line Out - R
5. Line Out - L
6. Serial GND

I think that's it. Thoughts on how to wire this pig? Also, upon typing this, I feel as if I'm probably going to have to take the GoStudio apart to see exactly what is connected to the Dock Connector, aren't I?

Thanks for your help!
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post #179 of 246
3/15/09 at 6:37am
I don't know what the GoStudio is (or does) but here is a link to the Apple Pinouts, which should be a good starting point to your question.

Apple iPod and iPhone Dock Interfaces pinout and signals @ pinouts.ru

By the way, have you tried it yet? I've had two non-apple products that have said they're not compatible with my 2G Touch. One of them worked 100%, the other simply had the "this accessory does not support charging" message which you dismiss, then otherwise works fine. So fingers crossed it's just something like that with the Belkin.....I also know Scoshe do an adaptor for incompatible devices, maybe someone else can shed some light on this or a solution.
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post #180 of 246
5/11/09 at 12:34pm
Hello all,
Wanted to post to see if anyone else is having this issue. I have a first gen iPhone 8GB running the latest software... I have build the LOD as spec'ed in the forums here with the 66K ohm resistor. I do not see the 'airplane mode' message and I have verified the connections. (Thanks for tip on that one!!) I only end up with the right channel output. When I connect my iPod nano, I have L/R... just not with my phone. The phone also outputs L/R on the dock, so I know the phone is not broken. Have tried two different connectors. Any ideas? Is the pinout different on the first gen iPhone versus the newer ones?

Thanks!! -Cheers, Peter.
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