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Shure E5 broken cable - Page 2

post #16 of 27
11/10/08 at 6:30pm
Thread Starter 
After one month of using the recabled E5's,I must say they sound better than ever.Could it be the rewiring?
Perhaps it's also the use of olives now instead of the triple flanges.Also rockboxed my iriver and that means>>FLAC
No more crappy MP3's for me.
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post #17 of 27
11/17/08 at 2:50pm
Hi, can you possibly post the information and steps on how you did this repair? I'm having the same problem with an old pair of E5s. I can't seem to get into the enclosure of the earpiece for access.
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post #18 of 27
11/17/08 at 4:04pm
Got inside, now just need to know how to fix it...never actually worked on something with 4 connections b4.
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post #19 of 27
11/18/08 at 4:38pm
Thread Starter 
I opened the plastic casings and tips with a sharp surgerical knife.

Make a drawing/picture how the cables/colors are soldered.

Cut the wires.Leave the solder blobs on the speakers,it's easier when having already some solder there,so you won't need to heat it that much.

Strip the lengths of the new cable the same as the old shure cable and presolder the tips.Not the whole bare wire because it will loose it's flexibility.

Pull the new cable through the cableholder.I removed the memory wire,because there was no more room for it to fit-->I had to drill the hole bigger because I used thicker cable.(what cable are you gonna use?)

Solder the wires at the right place and don't forget to use some insulation tape on the under speaker!I removed the speakers from the casings for better access.
I used a Weller soldering station set at 300 degrees celsius.

Glue back together the casings and tip.I used "Bison Bond",a 2 component glue.Probably a cyanoacrylaat glue will also do.

The Y-splitter I opened also with a surgical knife but the soldering spots are covered with silicone.If you gentle heat it with a flame,you can remove it.

Also make a drawing/pic of the situation and solder the wires at the right spot.I used silicon to glue back together the splitter.

Hope this will help you with the job.
Don't know if you have any soldering skills,but it is not a beginners job.It's do-able but a pain in the b*tt.Especially the Y-splitter bit.

Good luck and tell me the results,good or bad.
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post #20 of 27
11/18/08 at 6:43pm
Thank you very much for going through the trouble of writing all that out.

I have no soldering experience, although I've seen instructional videos on soldering.

The problem with my pair is that it has already been through two different repairs, so the cord near the earpieces are pretty mangled.
I was thinking about possibly shortening the cords and making new connections, then encasing the cord in plastic audio wire casing. I don't think I have the skills to completely recable everything.

My problem right now is with the two different strands of silver wire that's coming from the driver...do I just twist those two together and reattach them to the silver strands in the cord?

if my language sounds noobish, it's because I've never done anything like this before. I'm great at taking about stuff, but I can rarely put them back in working order.
This might take a while...
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post #21 of 27
11/18/08 at 7:39pm
Thread Starter 
There are 2 drivers in the e5.I used a balanced microphone cable which has 2 colored wires and a shield wire.Split the shield wire.White and ground goes to one driver,red and ground goes to other driver.
You can check how it's connected on the old wiring.
Hope this will help
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post #22 of 27
11/20/08 at 1:33am
To my dismay, I found my E500 cable cracked yesterday evening. As I bought it from another Head-Fi'er here whom lost the receipt, I have no choice but to recable this.

Out of curiosity, TT600R, where did you get your headphone replacement cable and how much? Further, is it possible to just use the same signal wire to both drivers (as opposed to using 2 separate wires)?

Thanks!
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post #23 of 27
11/20/08 at 8:32am
dem things are properly mashed lol ask shure nicely and they may exchange them for ya and give you the se530 in return, ya neva know
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post #24 of 27
11/20/08 at 5:24pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpham View Post
To my dismay, I found my E500 cable cracked yesterday evening. As I bought it from another Head-Fi'er here whom lost the receipt, I have no choice but to recable this.

Out of curiosity, TT600R, where did you get your headphone replacement cable and how much? Further, is it possible to just use the same signal wire to both drivers (as opposed to using 2 separate wires)?

Thanks!
I used a balanced microphone cable:Procab MC105-3,5 mm diameter.Cheap as hell,only 0,39 eurocents p/m.They are more flexible as the Shure ones.Any balanced cable will do.You probably also can use a replacement cable from UE.
The drivers need ofcourse the wires that come from the crossover filter that come from the Y splitter.There the signal get's divided into low and high.
That means two separate cables with both ground.
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post #25 of 27
12/16/08 at 6:10am
what the hell, i tested to see if the driver worked, so i took an amp and speaker cables and touched where the two broken cables were. it worked. after that i took the cables off and tested it again, it doesn't work.
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post #26 of 27
1/29/09 at 5:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TT600R View Post
I opened the plastic casings and tips with a sharp surgerical knife.

Make a drawing/picture how the cables/colors are soldered.

Cut the wires.Leave the solder blobs on the speakers,it's easier when having already some solder there,so you won't need to heat it that much.

Strip the lengths of the new cable the same as the old shure cable and presolder the tips.Not the whole bare wire because it will loose it's flexibility.

Pull the new cable through the cableholder.I removed the memory wire,because there was no more room for it to fit-->I had to drill the hole bigger because I used thicker cable.(what cable are you gonna use?)

Solder the wires at the right place and don't forget to use some insulation tape on the under speaker!I removed the speakers from the casings for better access.
I used a Weller soldering station set at 300 degrees celsius.

Glue back together the casings and tip.I used "Bison Bond",a 2 component glue.Probably a cyanoacrylaat glue will also do.

The Y-splitter I opened also with a surgical knife but the soldering spots are covered with silicone.If you gentle heat it with a flame,you can remove it.

Also make a drawing/pic of the situation and solder the wires at the right spot.I used silicon to glue back together the splitter.

Hope this will help you with the job.
Don't know if you have any soldering skills,but it is not a beginners job.It's do-able but a pain in the b*tt.Especially the Y-splitter bit.

Good luck and tell me the results,good or bad.
I plan on recabbling my e3g's since the cable recently cracked, I'm just wondering if you could elaborate on how to open the casing. Do you know how to open a e3g? Could you post some pic of what the headphones look like after you glue them together? I don't want them to look ugly...

I was thinking to either recable the whole thing or just snip the cable as it is coming out of the headphones and just splice a new cables in that way.

PS: Weller is awesome. I've had mine for over a decade and it works perfect.
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post #27 of 27
1/29/09 at 4:20pm
Thread Starter 
Never worked on the E3g's.Probably they can also be opened with a sharp surgical blade.
First pry the blade all around the seam of the tip and remove them.
Look where the seam of the 2 casings is located and gentle pry the blade in the seam all around.
This is how I opened my E5's.
Use very little glue on the seams when glueing them together after soldering the new cable.You won't notice they have been opened.

Good luck.
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