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recabling the k501...with pics! - Page 3

post #31 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fungi View Post
Why not remove the screws, put the cups in place, and then screw it on normally?
i put one screw in by removing the sticker. the other side is sort of busted...

anyway, i just finished recabling the k501. i used the rs1 cable that was removed by alex when he recabled my rs1. i cut off about a foot off the tip end, removed the cable junction cover, added techflex, heatshrink, and terminated with a 4-pin xlr. wasn't too difficult...probably the hardest part was getting the techflex on. it sounds pretty good. what i notice first off is the amount of bass the k501 has running balanced...but it's also amazing how much power the k501 needs. i have it on high gain on my GS-X and i could use a bit more power...but it's also the case that my pico (running as DAC and preamp) probably doesn't provide the most juice, either.

in any case, i'll post some pictures later, but feel free to ask any questions...

okay, here are the pics:

the right ear cup with the new cable soldered in. red is R+, blue is R-.


the left ear cup. white is L+, blue is L-. the original cabling had white as ground, so i connected part of the original cable to the blue wire b/c it's hard to reach in there to solder the ground. looks confusing, but it's really not.


couple pics of the finished product. my heatshrink skills stink so that's why the cables look terrible...the techflex portion looks pretty nice, though.


post #32 of 34
Quote:
techflex, heatshrink
both ? sorry im a little confused , could you post a close up at the cable please , want to see whats so shiny about it .
post #33 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frozenkex View Post
both ? sorry im a little confused , could you post a close up at the cable please , want to see whats so shiny about it .
Ok the heatshrink is the dull part coming from the headphones to the y split

The techflex is everything else, direct camera flashes are very bright and powerful, since techflex is made out of Polyethylene Terepthalate or PETE according to Parts Express which is what many plastic water bottles are made of, since it has many different angles some of them are going to reflect since it is made out of plastic thus giving it a shiny appearance.
post #34 of 34
It seems that my K501 was solders wrongly by a previous owner. The R+ and R- was reversed. Could this have caused damage to the driver? I have no idea for how long time it has been reversed. I've noticed that something has been wrong with them for some time, and have therefore not used them much.

Original post:
Quote:
Can anyone see if my K501 are soldered correctly (correct coloured wire soldered to correct place)?


Left


Right


Thanks

EDIT: Just found the answer here:
http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f6/rec...ml#post3885253
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