Sorry to hear that the 311 failed. Don't know the circuit either. All I can say is get a schematic and start reading voltages. If it is an internal 311 power supply failure (not the external PSU) and the failure hasn't taken out the other components it may be an easy fix for a technician.
Does the 311 have a recharge circuit? If so, what do the voltages at the terminals read if the player can be used in recharge mode? That reading may provide a clue.
It may be possible that only a surface mount electrolytic capacitor has gone bad.
I got a D-5 in the mail today ( to join my D-14). I had no intention of buying another one, but I stumbled across the picture on an ebay listing and couldn't stand to see it go for $2.50, so I bid. It was in the wrong category and had almost no description, so I got it for $2.75.
Anyway, to the point as far as this thread is concerned, the D-5a arrived today and it actually worked - more or less. Bad static. Used MCL on the volume pot, that didn't do much. Checked the line-out, it also had static. So I opened it up, adjusted the FO Bias (501) and lo and behold, it cleared up! ( No I didn't actually know what I was doing, it was pure dumb luck. )
Seeing how well that went, I then adjusted my D-14 and was able to improve it's skip resistance and ability to read CDRs a little by adjusting the Tracking Bias and Tracking Gain as described earlier in this thread.
[edit - scratch the part about reading CDRs better, that wasn't fixed]
Originally posted by StvnHarr I need a volume control for a D-7 Discman.
Any ideas of where to get one?
Thanks for your help
Why do you need one? If it's scratchy, turning it rapidly back and forth a couple of dozen times will usually improve it significantly, often to the point of fixing it. In more stubborn cases, contact cleaner should do the trick.
I have a Sony D-101 doesn't like to play track one. Just received it from an Ebay purchase. On start-up, it seeks for the number of tracks, starts track one, then skips and eventually advances to about 1/2 way through the song. If I advance to track two or more, it seems fine.
The problem is consistent with several CDs that I've tried.
Opening the unit, I found a couple of what look to be dog hairs (?), a bit of fuzz, but the gear assembly and guide rail look clear. There is also still a decent amount of grease on the worm gear. The lens was slightly dusty; cleaned now as well.
I read the excellent thread about pot adjustments and adjusted to minimize bump-related skipping (not as sensitive now). It runs a bit quieter, advances tracks more smoothly, but still doesn't like the beginning of track number one.
This is the first time I've ever opened a pcdp, and other than not being to catch the first track, I'm listening to the player while typing this. Sounds nice through the line out.
Hoping to get some ideas before trying anything else.
Edited to add:
The Ref Des assignments for the trim pots match those listed in the tracking adjustment thread. Also, the silk screen included the same function abbreviations (thanks, Sony). I remember reading that the 101 and 103 are of the same line, so this makes sense.
Checked the guide rail again and found another hair (WTF), and upon closer inspection, the lubricant on the rails had dried to a white chalk. I cleaned and lubed the worm gear and the rail with a good synthetic hydrocarbon grease (from RC helicopter maintenance kit).
After more (only partially educated) tweaking of the rim pots, there's an additional improvement in tracking. Most CDs actually play all the way through without skipping, and the sound of unit from line out into a PIMETA is surprising good.
Will attempt to attach a pic of the lower left corner or the D-101 where the pots are located. It's possible to remove the top cover, play a CD, and still get to and adjust these pots. RV504 (pll pot) is safely located elsewhere so prevents accidental adjustment. The silkscreening might be tough to see, but from top to bottom, the pots are 505, 503, 501, and 502. The silkscreened function abbreviations are also visible for a few locations.
Good work! Without the proper jigs and instruments it usually takes a pass or two or three at the adjustments to get a player working right. Thankfully, there is some leeway in the adjustments so perfection is not necessary.
Thanks, 555, I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, learned a bit, and found yet another reason to like the vintage route.
Next on my list for cleaning (doesn't seem to need tweaking) is a recently received D-11. As is, the volume pot needs a shower and exercise and I suspect the guide rails and worm gear could use a little TLC. As mentioned in Duncan's review, this is a surprisingly good-sounding player. Currently, just using the line out until I have time to dive in.
Instruments: This silly-ass, all consuming hobby now has me wanting a scope. I've been thinking about getting one anyway; it's worse now………
My Sony D-12 recently stopped working. During playback, about half way through a CD, the unit simply turned off. I restarted, and this time it played about half way through the first song before shutting down. Prior to this, it was working flawlessly and showed no signs of failure.
For a few more attempts, the LCD panel would turn on and the disk would spin, but then shut off. As a no CD test. I opened the lid, manually activated the door switch, and pressed Play. The disk motor would spin briefly and the laser would seek/attempt focus, and then turn off; expected operation for no CD.
It got progressively worse, and now, with a disk in player and after pressing Play, the LCD panel turns on for about 10 seconds and then shuts off without ever spinning the disk. With the no disk test, same thing: no spin up and no laser seek.
Any ideas would be appreciated, as I really like the sound of this player.
This might sound a little wacky drp, but it might be worth checking your power supply, as I have a D2 that exhibits similar problems (although this one sometimes garbles the LCD display), and it is being caused by the power lead being loose into the back of the player... some jiggling with the wire, and all is good (for a while at least)
Thanks for responding, Duncan. In vintage audio, nothing seems wacky….
The symptoms are the same whether I use alkie batteries in the battery tray or the PS. It's almost like some discrete component responsible for voltage management (hoping it's something replaceable) finally gave up the ghost. It might be time to take a peek inside the unit.
I recently got a different player with a PS (correct polarity). Same symptoms. I'll take a peek at the DC jack at any rate, given your comments.
If the D-12 is anything like the D-11, it's not a simple task to get to the component side of the board (unlike the D-101). Even the trim pots are adjusted through the backside.