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The DIY Discman Repair Thread - Page 30

post #436 of 450

hi sorry for the delayed reply..yes i am able to manually turn the spindle  but am not sure about the cleaning and lubricating part ..i am looking up this,as well as other threads for links also but i would appreciate it if someone would redirect me to a relevant thread...

thanx again..

post #437 of 450

Hello there! I am a super junior head fi-er. Haha, well I guess to the good gritty stuff.

 

I bought a pari of Vsonic gr06 IEM's about 6 months ago, but within two months of using the right earphone stopped playing music, or so i thought. Recently I picked them back up in hopes that they fixed themselves..............to my amazement, I found that the right earphone was still receiving signal from whatever it was plugged into BUT the music or voices were so quiet I could not hear unless I cupped my hand over my ear. I have no experience in repairing headphones nor do I know what tools I would need. Anybody have any suggestions? I am pretty poor and nobody local (that I know of) repairs headphones. Any help would be appreciated!

post #438 of 450

Where can I get the item?

I did research but I come up with nothing.

post #439 of 450

I need a new motor or can you fix it?

$?

post #440 of 450

I have recently purchased a Discman D-303 that I think the electrolytic caps need replacing.  Is this unit worth the repair effort?

1. how difficult is this if you know how to solder?

2. what caps should I replace them with?  any recommendations?

3. how many are there?  I've read elsewhere there are 7.

 

Thanks! 

post #441 of 450

Bought a Sony D-321 at a pawn shop about a month ago and created an account at Head-Fi.org because this was the only place online that offered a solution to the problem I was experiencing. After chatting to utahtaper, he suspected a couple SMD capacitors went bad and recommended replacing them.

 

I invested $125 in a hot air blower and soldering iron station and $5 for a few SMD capacitors on eBay. Removed and replaced the capacitors and now the Discman works flawlessly. Many thanks to utahtaper for his help.

post #442 of 450
Quote:
Originally Posted by shinyredbike View Post

Bought a Sony D-321 at a pawn shop about a month ago and created an account at Head-Fi.org because this was the only place online that offered a solution to the problem I was experiencing. After chatting to utahtaper, he suspected a couple SMD capacitors went bad and recommended replacing them.

 

I invested $125 in a hot air blower and soldering iron station and $5 for a few SMD capacitors on eBay. Removed and replaced the capacitors and now the Discman works flawlessly. Many thanks to utahtaper for his help.

Excellent. Always nice to read a success story! 

post #443 of 450

Anyone knows what kind of lubricant is needed for the assembly (the 2 steel rods) that moves the laser back & forth?

post #444 of 450
Quote:
Originally Posted by AUDIOBREEDER View Post
 

Anyone knows what kind of lubricant is needed for the assembly (the 2 steel rods) that moves the laser back & forth?

I used a tiny bit of white grease. Maybe a light silicon based lube? I have used both with success. 

post #445 of 450

Hello. Cool place you got here. To the point, I'm trying to repair an old Sony Discman ESP D-E301. It will play some CDs, some of them skip, some do not. But the majority of the CDs I have tried in it it simply does not recognize. I made sure that the laser was red and that the CDs turn (for a bit) after pushing play. However most simply stop and it says "No Disc", etc.

I managed to find the repair instructions for this exact model, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get the Lid Assembly off. The instructions look fairly simple, and while I'm not an expert by any means, I do build my own PCs and gaming PCs for others, so I do know my way around a screw-driver if you know what I mean. I will post the image showed in the manual when I am allowed to. It looks really simple, and yet.......?

Any help is appreciated, this player is an original purchase by me and I would like to give it to my daughter if I can get it working.

Thanks, and cheers!
BlackWolfe

 

post #446 of 450

Hi BlackWolfe,

 

What a coincidence. I happen to have one of these brand new still in the box. I think you need to unscrew it from the bottom and lift the tray up to expose the circuit board and the laser assembly.

 

I got my hands on a Sony D-451SP earlier in the day and had a very similar problem to yours, the player did not recognize the disc. I unscrewed and removed the tray area and cleaned and lubed the rail that the laser rides on with lithium grease. That didn't fix it. 

 

Got my hands on a service manual and found the three POTS that controlled the focusing and tracking of the laser. I used a black permanent marker and put a line on the adjustment knob to the base, in case I have to put it back to the original position. 

 

My first guess was that it had a focusing problem. So I adjusted the focusing POTS 30 degrees clockwise. Worked for a bit but the next disc would not read. The laser was taking a long time to find the track. I went back and tried 30 degrees counter-clockwise, then 90 degrees, then 180 degrees. It got worse the more I turned it, so I returned it back to original position. 

 

I tried the tracking balance POTS and that solved my problem. I had to turn it 30 degrees counter-clockwise for the fix. Not only did it recognize the disc, it was able to find all the tracks and play them.

 

The player might not meet the audiophile grade. But the Sony yellow waterproof case with the Sports logo really hits the nostalgia button for me and most people in my age group. I couldn't let it go to the landfill. Glad I was able to save it.

 

Hope this helps.


Edited by shinyredbike - 10/12/14 at 9:02am
post #447 of 450

Thanks for replying. Yeah, there are four screws, all the same, in the back. The repair manual for this model, however, claims that you need to remove the lid before you can remove the top, and the laser assembly, and get to the board.

http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s414/BlackWolfeArts/For%20The%20Public/lidassemblyinstructions_zps95b5a8c1.jpg

As you can see, it looks fairly simple. And like I said, I build computers, so disassembling electronics is usually a breeze. For some reason, I cannot wrap my head around exactly what it is they want you to do here. Glad you have the same one ;-)  but I'm trying to fix this one because I used it to play her CDs as she was growing up. If you have any tips after you see the diagram, they are most welcome. Thanks again!

 

post #448 of 450
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackWolfe View Post
 

Thanks for replying. Yeah, there are four screws, all the same, in the back. The repair manual for this model, however, claims that you need to remove the lid before you can remove the top, and the laser assembly, and get to the board.

http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s414/BlackWolfeArts/For%20The%20Public/lidassemblyinstructions_zps95b5a8c1.jpg

As you can see, it looks fairly simple. And like I said, I build computers, so disassembling electronics is usually a breeze. For some reason, I cannot wrap my head around exactly what it is they want you to do here. Glad you have the same one ;-)  but I'm trying to fix this one because I used it to play her CDs as she was growing up. If you have any tips after you see the diagram, they are most welcome. Thanks again!

 

 

I think you are reading too closely into the Service Manual.

You might want to go straight to the next step: 3-2 Cabinet (Front) Assy, MD Assy Removal.

 

That will give you access to the laser and the main circuit board.

post #449 of 450

Thanks. My concern was whether or not I would make a bad situation worse by breaking the lid. I'll give it a whirl as you suggested

and see what happens. My hands are kind of big to be working on electronics this small so I was afraid of moving on without a bit

of outside info. Appreciate everyone's help with this!

post #450 of 450

Thanks for all your advice/help. I took all the screws out of the back, but the way this one is built the top piece and bottom piece are both molded all the way around. And there is no way to separate them enough (without getting lid off) to get to the board without snapping them. Getting the lid off is probably a much simpler task than I think it is but again I just can't wrap my head around it, instructions or not. Wish I could get this thing running fresh for my kid but it looks like a lost cause. Again, thank you very much for your help and advice. This place rules!

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