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HeAudio 1.3, 1.2B and the new JADE Stat Headphones - Page 165

post #2461 of 2670
I'm taking a ride on the enjoyment train.
post #2462 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by krmathis View Post
What actually happened to the Jade love that flowed a couple of months back?
No love anymore, or are the owners too busy enjoying the 'phones to even post... ?
Nothing new to report - I like mine enough that I already sold the O2 Mk1 and ESP950. (kept the Jade, HE60 and O2 Mk2).
post #2463 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by derekbmn View Post
I'll tell you what happened to my love...it went to the K1000.
mine went the same route too.
post #2464 of 2670
Hey, I may have gotten the K1000 last month myself, but the Jade are not going anywhere.
post #2465 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict View Post
Hey, I may have gotten the K1000 last month myself, but the Jade are not going anywhere.
As I mature my strategy is changing and so does my uniform and avatar.
Electrostatics are not the primary choice for me any more.
post #2466 of 2670
since the J's do seem to have good synergy with the Stax transformer box, I will probably post some transformer info/impressions in a little bit.

.....still waiting for my own SRD7 to show up.
post #2467 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioCats View Post
since the J's do seem to have good synergy with the Stax transformer box, I will probably post some transformer info/impressions in a little bit.

.....still waiting for my own SRD7 to show up.
You should post a mini-review of how they sounded with my transformer box.
post #2468 of 2670
here are some comparison info on some transformers driving the J (the SRD7, SRD6, and the JRM I have). Cable configuration includes the stock PVC cable and the Stax-wide.

First of all, I need to point out that the SRD6 and SRD7 transformers may not be the same. I will explain why I said "may not" further down.

here is the SRD7' (in a black face SRD7 SB):


and now the SRD6's (in a silve face SRD6):


Clearly these SRD6 transformers are much smaller than the SRD7 trans. The reason I said "may not be the same" is because, there are two sets of mounting holes in the SRD6 case, can be seen on the under side. The SRD7 transformers could be mounted into a SRD6 case, using the further holes. So it is possible that some of the SRD6's were fitted with larger transformers. The extra mounting holes in this SRD6 show no marking so they were never used to mount anything, (in case you suspect somebody might had swapped out the trans); these smaller transformers appear to be factory installed.



All transformer boxes in this review are modded/built to have pro-bias and direct transformer/speaker cable connection. The speaker cable was made from the original stax pigtail cable that came with the box. By the way, this pigtail cables sucks, still ok to use for this comparison though.

Now the simplified comparison info:

with stock PVC cable:
--SRD7 gives a very lively sound. Very strong bass and great dynamics. Good details, slightly bright but only noticible at the beginning when you put the phones on, very easy to get use to. Sound stage is neither wide nor narrow, definitly narrower than a T1 though. Very engaging, very "live".
--SRD6 has a more compressed sound stage, less air and detail, and sounds softer. Not as even sounding as the SRD7, there are noticible peaks in the mids, though still tolerable. Rolled off top end. The up side is that it is not as bright as the 7, and the softer sound makes it easier to listen to some musics, especially vocal. Much less bass than the SRD7, and doesn't go as deep.

With Stax-wide:
--SRD7 sounds sharpper and brighter than with the PVC cable, border line "too bright". Bass is about the same. better details, and even more "live" feeling. The extra brightness can really be a bit too much at times. Of course this can be improved by matching it with a warm speaker amp and cable. Everything else is about the same as with the PVC ribbon.
--SRD6: slightly less peaky than with the PVC cable. everything else is about the same.
--JRM: flat sounding and un-involving. wide sound stage, but distant too, definitly don't have the 3D "there" feel of the SRD7. Detail level is about the same as the SRD7. Now the main problem: the bass is shallow, only slightly better than the SRD6's, very surprising considering they are large 1:50 intended for electrostatic panels.



Conclusions:

*For the J's, the SRD7 is probably the best bet. The box (low bias) is usually fairly cheap, adding the pro-bias is relativly simple. My JRM transformers cost more than a SRD7 box, and don't sound as nice with the J. (The JRM's is the overall winner when driving the ESP950 and the ESP10 though, these larger trans do have an edge dealing with more demanding phones. but for the J, a SRD7 is clearly the better choice.)

*SRD6 is best left alone, or reserved for making portable amps. Not worth the hassle to turn it into a desktop pro-bias box.

*when driven by transformer boxes, the advantage of Stax-wide is apparent but not really that huge, a recable might not be necessary if you stick with transformers. Stax-wide recable does make a big difference when using headphone amps though.


Now we wait for a (hopefully) more detailed review on "modded SRD7 driven by high-end speaker amps", from HeadphoneAddict....


Have fun
post #2469 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by kintsaki View Post
Electrostatics are not the primary choice for me any more.
It's good to see that you have come to your senses and found that women are more worthy of the attention than electrostats, Admiral.
post #2470 of 2670
I'm on a quest to find the right amp that can drive a 2.5 - 4 ohm load, but the Super Box isn't here yet, so it is moot point.
post #2471 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by immtbiker View Post
It's good to see that you have come to your senses and found that women are more worthy of the attention than electrostats, Admiral.
I just saw this as there is a bug and I get thrown out by IE when I click the link from the Headfi email to see a new response.
Now this is another one of your jokes I cannot grasp kind like the last one with the very long cord.
Perhaps if you give me a hint i can figure it out tomorrow when I will have my Turkish coffee.

The admiral avatar is to indicate that if one must "defect" to save the world from a preemptive nuclear attack then this is perfectly ok. Defecting from the "Electrostatixism" party along with sending a message to the "Staxism Party" minister (I had to make a statement I could not keep my mouth shut and now I have an "Alpha" chasing my a**) was really fan. Thank God, the Yankees across the ocean had it all figured out.
post #2472 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadphoneAddict View Post
I'm on a quest to find the right amp that can drive a 2.5 - 4 ohm load, but the Super Box isn't here yet, so it is moot point.
I noticed from your gear list that you're not opposed to solid state. If not, you should try some of the gear that's designed for use in pro audio arenas (or that the original designs were). They are good to 2 ohms and can really make a big difference with difficult loads. That's why Bryston amps do so well with stuff like Magnepans. You can pick some of them up for a song and while they aren't the final word in treble sweetness, you'd be using so little of their power that they'd probably never get out of class A operation.
If you can find a B-60 for cheap, they're really a nice sounding integrated that I heard driving a pair of Maggie 1.6QR's with only 60w in a big room. I bought the 1.6's the next week!
post #2473 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by ironbut View Post
I noticed from your gear list that you're not opposed to solid state. If not, you should try some of the gear that's designed for use in pro audio arenas (or that the original designs were). They are good to 2 ohms and can really make a big difference with difficult loads. That's why Bryston amps do so well with stuff like Magnepans. You can pick some of them up for a song and while they aren't the final word in treble sweetness, you'd be using so little of their power that they'd probably never get out of class A operation.
If you can find a B-60 for cheap, they're really a nice sounding integrated that I heard driving a pair of Maggie 1.6QR's with only 60w in a big room. I bought the 1.6's the next week!
Thanks, I will keep an eye out for something like that. My Nuforce Icon was quite hot from driving a stock SRD-7 Pro, so I don't know if I should risk it on the modded pro-bias 2.5 - 4 ohm SRD-7 SB box. Nuforce said they don't know how well the Icon will do with a low impedance load like the modded SRD-7 SB, and they recommended that I try it to let them know how it works, and if I fry the Icon they will fix it for free. He said getting the upgraded 40+ watt PSU shouldn't make a difference. Now that is great customer service.

I blew a JAN SYL 2c51 tube on the Qinpu A-3 because left channel was all screwy and softer till I replaced the tubes, but that was maybe from static discharge while touching the amp while it was running, and not from driving the SRD-7 Pro. Sounds fine with the tubes replaced now.

The best way to drive the low impedance Stax box with my 8-watt Eddie Current ZDT that is still being built is to pay $525 to upgrade the output transformers to a multi-tap transformer than can handle 4 ohm without loading the output tubes below 600 ohm. I could try the stock amp with less than 8 ohm, but then the output tubes will see a lower impedance and might start to struggle a bit.

I will email Head-direct and Travagans and ask them what they think about driving very low impedances with them, while I look for a good but bigger speaker amp.
post #2474 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioCats View Post
Cable configuration includes the stock PVC cable and the Stax-wide.

First of all, I need to point out that the SRD6 and SRD7 transformers may not be the same. I will explain why I said "may not" further down.

here is the SRD7' (in a black face SRD7 SB):


Good job and some new info.
Can you clarify? The "stock PVC" and "Stax-wide" is the cable between what and what? Between transformer box and Jade or between amp and transformer? (Your Jade has stock cables or?)

Also, I want to do the direct speaker/transformer mod, so could you post a big photo of the other side of SRD7 (I have the Pro) and which wires need to be moved to where, as to presumably bypass the selector switch and circuit board?

TIA!
post #2475 of 2670
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon L View Post
Good job and some new info.
Can you clarify? The "stock PVC" and "Stax-wide" is the cable between what and what? Between transformer box and Jade or between amp and transformer? (Your Jade has stock cables or?)

Also, I want to do the direct speaker/transformer mod, so could you post a big photo of the other side of SRD7 (I have the Pro) and which wires need to be moved to where, as to presumably bypass the selector switch and circuit board?

TIA!
He is talking about the re-cabled Jade which has connectors to allow using Stax or Jade cable.
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