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DIY supply for Firestone Spitfire?

post #1 of 3
1/16/08 at 7:44am
Thread Starter 
I've finally gotten around to looking at upgrading the wall wart on my Firestone Spitfire DAC.

At the moment I'm tossing up between building a STEPS supply or possibly buying this supply from Jaycar.

The only specs that the are listed for official Firestone Supplier is that its 24V 500mA (and costs about AU$230 from some from one Australian supplier )

As far as I know the STEPS should do the job just fine, however the Jaycar supply is attractive partly because of the price and partly the fact there shop just 10 mins from me Any ideas if the Jaycar supply will be up to snuff for the job?

...

I finally found some good pics of whats inside and from the looks of it both supplies may be massive overkill




(from AndAudio.com :: Æ[¬Ý¤å³¹ - Supplier ¹Ï¤ù)
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post #2 of 3
1/16/08 at 8:20am
Yup, definitely looks like a simple linear regulator IC in that supply to me.

I still don't think I'd recommend the Jaycar supply though, mostly just since it's an unknown quantity. The cheap regulated supplies I've seen usually have small, low quality capacitors and bottom of the barrel parts in all respects. I imagine you could build a protoboard LM317 supply with all the bells and whistles for well under half the cost of that Jaycar supply, and you'll know you picked quality parts for it. Or spend a bit more and a TREAD kit with a trafo is probably still quite a bit less, though it seems to have less than half the bulk capacitance of the Firestone supply.
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post #3 of 3
1/16/08 at 8:43am
Thread Starter 
I suspected that there wasn't going to be much in the Supplier, but I was a little surprised at just how little

As you say, I'm seriously considering just building it on prototype board. I'll probably source the parts locally as once you factor in shipping the price can jump a lot.

At least I already have a Hammond case on hand from an order sometime last year, that way at least it will look good on the outside even if the inside is a mess :P

I'm guessing the top image is of the second revision, the transformer is different as is the value of the cap next to the power out socket.
Looking closely it looks like the rectifier is attached to the other side of the same heatsink (behind the green cap?) the regulator is using.
Interesting to note the pads for a second power socket on the board.

Looks like what I was dreading to be overly complicated may wind up being a single day project
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