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Orgy of Capacitors: The Cap Thread - Page 31

post #451 of 553

In a rather simplistic laymans terms, capacitors tend to resist changes in voltage, where as inductors tend to resist changes in current. Inductors can also be thought of like a barrier for noise, diode switching discussed above is one thing, but the ripple caused by the charging/discharging of the capacitors is even more of an issue for a quite supply, inductors greatly help to smooth out those transitions.  A resistor does a good job in that role, but an inductor or choke does it much better with the added benefit of acting like a current reservoir.

post #452 of 553

Cool :) This makes a lot of sense.

 

Just a note, if the music creates voltage drop or ripple as it discharges the capacitors, we need more or faster capacitors :)

 

The current reservoir idea of the choke also makes sense in acting kind of like a super fast bypass in supplying current for the highs. Actually this might be a good idea for the gainclone which is notorious for having bad highs with big caps, and bad lows with smaller caps... Big cap and a choke might do the trick :) And to my knowledge no one has commented on trying it.

 

Anyway... we really got out of topic...

 

Back on topic, after ~10 hours of breaking in, my K75-10s + FT-3 set still sounds weird on my DCB1... I really miss that top end of the single FT-3... And since the FT-3s were already broken in, I am starting to think that I need to consider a different bypass value.

On top of that, mids and lows are a bit floppy, but I am pointing this both on the multiple caps and their "freshness".

 

Damn I hate this phase of waiting...

I really can t wait to get my hands on those big 10uF ones...

post #453 of 553
Jupiter caps does anyone know about these caps ?

Al
post #454 of 553

I got a bunch of .3uF K71-7's basically for free. So I taped three together and used them as my first experimental bypass on the Cracks CRCRC power supply. I got this S&H 12AU7 and found it to be a little wimpy in in the bottom end but nice everywhere else. Right away I could tell the bypass with the Russian polystyrene seems to have been a good move. :dt880smile:  Its only ~1uF. Is it placebo?


Edited by NightFlight - 5/12/14 at 12:36pm
post #455 of 553
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALRAINBOW View Post

Jupiter caps does anyone know about these caps ?

Al

 

I presume you mean the new Jupiter Copper Foil Paper & Wax capacitor?  Normally, I wouldnt' say this, but just buy it, before Jupiter Co. realizes its real worth and triples the price :)

 

http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/0514/jupiter_copper_foil_paper_wax_capacitor.htm

post #456 of 553
I was advised by the person building my DAC
Do I said yes. Who knows. Duelands is the name right now.
And the copper is what most use but there us silver too hahaha
So I went with Jupiter let's see.
And yes it's them u quoted
Al
post #457 of 553

Guys have you compared  Κ73-16 to K75-10 and/or FT-3?

post #458 of 553

The K73-16 looks to be a I dry polyester and Mylar film (I have not tried it)

The k75-10 is reported to a be duel dielectric capacitor Polypropylene & paper with a metalized Mylar film, wet in oil  (very musical and engaging presentation) there look to be a couple of different versions of the k75 some of the larger value ones are reported as being dry and resin filled and not pio.

 

FT-3 is Teflon (seriously good value performance ratio). 

 

I liked the results achieved from bypassing the K75-10 with the FT-3 Teflon bypass. Read through this bb you will find fair bit of info on them.

 

info on the ft3

 

http://www.rutubes.com/articles/?article_id=15

 

K75-10

 

http://www.rutubes.com/articles/?article_id=7


Edited by JamieMcC - 5/13/14 at 6:03am
post #459 of 553

I'll contribute quickly:

 

In the process of upgrading the output caps on my MPX3, I ordered a bunch of different electrolytic caps to see which I liked best.

 

Nichicon GN 390uF/400V (the stock ones)

Nichicon KX 470uF/400V

BC (Vishay) 470uF/450V

Phillips (Vishay) 390uF/400V (had those lying around)

United ChemiCon 860uF/400V (a new product that comes in the same size as the rest, 35/40mm)

Panasonic 470uF/400V

Epcos 560uF/400V

 

Long story short, the Epcos / Nichicon KX were the best of the bunch by far. I ended up sticking with the Epcos, as they provided more slam/dynamics and the higher capacitance gave more bass to my low impedance headphones. The KX sounded smoother, and more musical but had less slam. Was really surprised by the Epcos. A really good cap!

 

As far as film caps go, I upgraded the industrial cathode caps in there with AudynCap Fine First, but ordered some Mundorf Supreme Silver/Gold/Oil that I should be receiving tomorrow. The Fine First are quite good though, they were really a step up from the industrial "orange" caps in there.


Edited by elmoe - 5/13/14 at 6:52am
post #460 of 553

Thanks for the nice links J

 

I am currently using K75-10 bypassed by FT-3 on my dcb1 and I am expecting some big 10uFs now for testing. I just have read some nice opinions about the K73s, so I was wondering if someone has directly compared them to the more popular K75s

post #461 of 553

In the meantime, the 10uF K75-10 arrived.

 

Those things are HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! the exclamation marks are not nearly enough...

 

Here is a photo for relative comparison.

 

 

The values are clearly visible :) The last one on the right is a 10000uF electrolytic at 50V just to have a rather common size in there.

The 10uF is 10cm in length and 4.5cm in diameter...

 

Here is the actual "thing" that I added on the output of my DCB1. I went for a 1/100 ratio on the bypassing this time.

 

 

First impression is really positive. With the caps freshly soldered and with 0 breaking in time, the bass is already at least as deep and articulate as it was before, and the mids are at least twice as clear as they were before (Probably because of one main cap instead of two). The biggest improvement is on the highs, which are through the roof. Still not on-par with the solo FT-3, but I will give it some time :)

 

Overall, I am very excited for this set.

 

Something that I have to point out is that Russians really need their leads cleaned before soldering. Flux should be able to clean some of the corrosion or dirt, but I really recommend scratching them a bit with an exacto knife, filing them a bit, or even sanding them.

This made soldering oh-so-much-easier and faster as well, even with the big chunky leads dissipating much of the heat.

 

Please also note that the caps are not secured on the chassis for now. Just standing on top of some internal heatsink because they did not fit properly in there. I expect things to get even better by properly attaching them to some chunky wood or aluminum plate.

My intention is to put the final set into a wooden cylinder and sink it into beeswax for further elimination of vibrations and microphonics.

 

So happy :)

post #462 of 553

Neat pleased they are working out for you. I'm loving a similar combo my Russian teflons required roughly 150-200hrs of burn to get a feel for their full effect.  

 

I'm looking forward to trying out a pair of Hovland Supercaps for some bypass duty when they eventually arrive.


Edited by JamieMcC - 5/15/14 at 2:34pm
post #463 of 553

You guys think there is some merit in further bypassing these with another 1/100 cap?

 

Like 10uF/0.1uF/1nF ?

 

I also got a suggestion from Salas to change the bridging wire to some thicker one to eliminate extra resistances between the two caps.

 

I will try these today and post back.

 

Oh and something else I have noticed.

Using crimps to keep the leads connected increased the dissipation factor of the caps by around 10% which is a rather big change (0.0040 to 0.0050). I would solder the caps for critical listening. Especially the Russians which have dirty and semi-corroded leads. Clean those and solder them properly for auditioning.

post #464 of 553

I would be tempted to say no as the K75+teflon has quiet a strong character. But you never know if its not going to cost a lot why give it a try.

post #465 of 553

Yeah the problem is that I do not have any 1nF teflons. It will have to be silver mica... Mixing more dielectric stuff in there is going to be tricky...

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