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Sony MDR-F1 Initial Impressions + pics - Page 4

post #46 of 54
1/15/08 at 10:15am
Interesting what you guys mentioned on positioning with this headphone. I find the same to be very true with my CD3k's. I also prefer my ears pushed forward for soundstage/treble sparkle, however, for late night listening, I find giving the drivers a little more space results in a more enjoyable and laid back sound, overall.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones
Sony MDR-F1 Full-Open-Air Headphones with Impedance Compensator
AKG K 601 Headphones
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post #47 of 54
1/15/08 at 12:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by khbaur330162 View Post
Interesting what you guys mentioned on positioning with this headphone. I find the same to be very true with my CD3k's. I also prefer my ears pushed forward for soundstage/treble sparkle, however, for late night listening, I find giving the drivers a little more space results in a more enjoyable and laid back sound, overall.
It would be interesting to hear what K1000 users find on the positioning effect.
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post #48 of 54
1/16/08 at 10:01am
They're wonderful. And yes, they're very positioning dependent. Now, due to this ... im thinking of getting the PFR-V1.
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post #49 of 54
1/16/08 at 10:39am
That's great you performed this surgery as well

For recabling, I just drilled about 4mm hole on the right cup along the plastic outer ridge 45 degree angle then just feed your favorite cable through and solder the ends to appropriate terminal of the driver in respect to your cable termination.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jirams View Post
Managed to get the end mesh caps off by going around the gap between them and the metal frame with a 15 thou feeler gauge. The caps do indeed fit with a baynet action but Sony have secured them also with a dab of glue.

I graunched out the impedance networks in each earpiece and was devastated to them find the LH ear way down on volume. After checking everything with the Fluke meter I turned the wick way up on the volume and the LH ear started to grate and then came good -'phew' - must have been some crud from getting the caps off that got into the pole piece gap.

They sound great now and overall I reckon that although the bass is about the same depth, it seems to extend more into the mids.

Next move is to fit a better cable when I can source some alternative - this time it will be 2 conductors per side.

Many thanks all the help on this thread.
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post #50 of 54
1/19/08 at 3:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SK138 View Post
That's great you performed this surgery as well

For recabling, I just drilled about 4mm hole on the right cup along the plastic outer ridge 45 degree angle then just feed your favorite cable through and solder the ends to appropriate terminal of the driver in respect to your cable termination.
I drilled the RH capsule frame exactly as the LH and fitted HD600 cable - there is a lug inside the RH frame where you drill but it can be broken off easily. This way the cable exits evenly from each side. A very small cable tie acts as a strain relief and some heat shrink sleeving around the cable where it goes throught the holes to finish it all off neatly.
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post #51 of 54
1/29/08 at 2:52am

Easy driver

Some say the F1s are hard to drive so I powered them up with my PA2V2 $60 amp. They sound great so they're not too hard or expensive to drive afterall!
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post #52 of 54
6/22/11 at 4:30am

Does anyone have the service maual or the schematic for thr impedance compansation network? I'v tried the remove it according to the ljordan's mod, but ended up with the sound coming only in mono or none at all... Would really appreciate if someone who's done this succesfully could guide me through this.

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post #53 of 54
2/12/12 at 1:32pm
I'll post my mods here since the other thread is getting rather old.

scaled.php?server=535&filename=mdrf1impcnmodcontacts13.jpg&res=medium This is the same mod, bypassing the impedance correction. Just scrape off a little of the yellow glue and solder right next to the other contact. It's easy to check if it works, just put a signal on the wire and hold it to the contact point.
scaled.php?server=24&filename=mdrf1basslens1373.jpg&res=medium
I leave the bass-lens in place. It's part of the design so why mess that up?
scaled.php?server=844&filename=mdrf1padding1374.jpg&res=medium
I made new pads from some non-woven PP-textile I had lying around. The old foam had totally disintegrated.

Most of the work was cleaning the pads after years of wearing. rolleyes.gif Cleaned up pretty well.
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post #54 of 54
4/5/12 at 9:32am

Stock F1s sound quite good to me. I would not mod them for now, because these headphones seem to be rare and parts do not seem to be easy to disassemble.

 

Comfort is unbelievably good, they really "disappear" while on your head. Love that soundstage and air. Probably sound close to AKG K400/501.

 

If I have to nitpick: bass is not as full as Denon D1001 / CAL or LCD2s. But I have no complain in view of the used price of $200.

 

Could anyone please tell me where to buy replacement pads? Thank you. My F1s' pads are still usable though kind of flatten by usage. For now, I put some latex tube underneath the pads to firm them up.   


Edited by zzffnn - 4/5/12 at 9:35am
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones
Sony MDR-F1 Full-Open-Air Headphones with Impedance Compensator
AKG K 601 Headphones
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