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Bijou All Tube Futterman Headphone Amplifier - Page 11

post #151 of 3981
2/22/08 at 9:02pm
Great work DBel84! I guess what I am going to do ( like Dsavitsk suggested ), is get the amp working first and then desolder the tall components ( almost all are currently mounted and soldered ) and mount them under the pcb. It wont be too bad, because the resistors can stay on the top of the pcb. I just hope that the heatsinks on the mosfets don't damage the power supply board, with the heat updraft onto the board. ;-)
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post #152 of 3981
2/22/08 at 11:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by amphead View Post
Great work DBel84! I guess what I am going to do ( like Dsavitsk suggested ), is get the amp working first and then desolder the tall components ( almost all are currently mounted and soldered ) and mount them under the pcb. It wont be too bad, because the resistors can stay on the top of the pcb. I just hope that the heatsinks on the mosfets don't damage the power supply board, with the heat updraft onto the board. ;-)
To aid ventilation you could drill a few holes in the PCB around each of the heatsinks.
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post #153 of 3981
2/23/08 at 3:40am
Good idea Dcheming, I will probably do that.

Anyone order any parts from tubeamparts on Ebay? He shows a California location, but ships from HK. So I had the part shipped priority mail and don't know if that is an avialable shipping method from China. ;-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcheming View Post
To aid ventilation you could drill a few holes in the PCB around each of the heatsinks.
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post #154 of 3981
2/23/08 at 4:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by amphead View Post
So I had the part shipped priority mail and don't know if that is an avialable shipping method from China. ;-)
I don't think it is, but you can check around. Over at VT4C, he lists some way that he can ship items to the US:
V4TC Shipping Methods

You might send a quick email to Chung at VT4C (chung@vt4c.com) and ask (even though he isn't sending these to you.) Might be good information for ya.
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post #155 of 3981
2/24/08 at 7:10am
While awaiting more parts, I sanded and polished the cocobolo sides. Starting with 100/220/240/400/500/1200 and then 0000 steel wool. It is very smooth and starting to shine. Cocobolo sawdust is toxic. If you are cautious and wipe off the dust every once in awhile, you will be OK.
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post #156 of 3981
2/25/08 at 3:32am
I will order the 370dax from angela.com on monday. Depending on how long heavy parts take from east to west coast, will determine how long it takes to finish my build.
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post #157 of 3981
2/28/08 at 1:39am
Amphead - when you soldered the boards together and dropped the tubes in: how tall is the 6N6P? I'm shopping for a case! It looks like it might be around 3" or so from the bottom of the board to the tip of the tube...
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post #158 of 3981
2/28/08 at 4:46am
Yeah, 3 inches just barely clears from the glass projection on the top of the tube to the base of the board. Good Luck!
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post #159 of 3981
2/29/08 at 2:08am
Gah! Bummer. Okay, I'll have to consider a different case then, or hang those beauties out the top of a shorter one.
Thank you!
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post #160 of 3981
2/29/08 at 2:16pm
Can someone compare DV 332 to Bijou?
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post #161 of 3981
2/29/08 at 11:56pm
Don't know who can help you on that one.

Well, photoflash caps arrived 410uF 300v, and I am soldering on the leads, as these have a different style for the terminals. They have a knurled metal connection point that identifies it as the negative terminal. The 370DAX and EZ80, are on their way from angela.com and should be here in a week. Studying the wiring diagram carefully to make sure it is the one used with the 6DJ8 and 6N6P. ;-)
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post #162 of 3981
3/2/08 at 8:41am
Also waiting on the large caps for the power supply, which are coming from HK. A different vendor than the one who supplied my output caps. Just finished installing the mosfets on the power supply board. I used 4-40 stainless screws/locking nuts, with the insulating pads and teflon washers. Another thing that I did, was to use about 12 inches of plumbers teflon tape carefully wound around the screws as electrical isolation from the heatsinks. It will withstand 320 degrees celsius or about 600 degrees farenheit, which is more than enough. It's not recommended to rely on the thin anodized coating on the heatsinks to electrically isolate the machine screws from them. ;-)
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post #163 of 3981
3/2/08 at 9:07pm
Only one item not ordered or installed, and that is the RK27 50K volume pot. Well I guess there are really 2 items, since I am going to install a push button latching ON/OFF switch. And then on to the wiring of the transformer to the power supply board and the test of that circuit first.

This latching push button might look good on the front panel.

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post #164 of 3981
3/2/08 at 9:48pm
Thread Starter 
yeah - that looks sweet, looking forward to the unveiling ;-) ..dB
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post #165 of 3981
3/3/08 at 2:31am
Quote:
Be careful with those, I've heard of them breaking after a couple of months.
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