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Bijou All Tube Futterman Headphone Amplifier - Page 10

post #136 of 3981
2/21/08 at 6:34am
Willisv, awesome work man! Thanks for letting me know how good it sounds with K701's.
Also, thanks Runeight!

Here's my rig at the 60% finished state, with Cocobolo glued on.

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post #137 of 3981
2/21/08 at 7:15am
That case is looking nice amphead! Are you going to put a cover on it?
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post #138 of 3981
2/21/08 at 9:13am
No, but there will be a guard that prevents fingers from coming into contact with the High Voltage. I am still thinking about how I want to do that. Thanks
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post #139 of 3981
2/21/08 at 10:54am

Nice....

Williesv Very nice. I have one on order myself, kit from Jeff. Thats some pretty heavy hookup wire you used. I have another Millet Max in queue first though.

James
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post #140 of 3981
2/21/08 at 12:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebby View Post
Oh I'm well aware that the Bijou doesn't require a terminal strip to be wired up. I'm looking to stock up on them for some other projects where having one will make the cabling much neater

Btw, are there any concerns I should take into consideration if I am going to build a balanced version? Aside from the wiring changes for input/output and the need for two sets of PS/2x amp boards.
OK. Just wanted to be sure.

There is no special treatment other than the input/ouput wiring and pots for a balanced version.
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post #141 of 3981
2/21/08 at 1:35pm
Amphead, that is almost exactly what I have designed, in my mind at least!!

Also wracking my brain for ideas for some sort of cover, I'm thinking acrylic/lexan, or possibly expanded metal, if I can figure out how to work with these materials! Or possibly the largest drawer pulls at Home Depot . But the single sheet of aluminum on a wood base is right up my alley!
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post #142 of 3981
2/21/08 at 5:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamess71 View Post
Williesv Very nice. I have one on order myself, kit from Jeff. Thats some pretty heavy hookup wire you used. I have another Millet Max in queue first though.

James
That's awesome, you will have fun building the Bijou. Make sure you find a 100k 1 or 2 watt bleeder resistor to drain the big caps.
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post #143 of 3981
2/22/08 at 2:05am
Nice work willisv!

Quote:
Originally Posted by amphead View Post
Here's my rig at the 60% finished state, with Cocobolo glued on.
Nice work there amphead. I see that you build very much like I do: lots of case work started even before all the soldering is done. The casing always take me so much extra time! Oy! But I figure hey, I've gotta look at this thing from here on out. It might as well look cool.

With your wood and metal work, perhaps instead of just having a cage you might consider building a Cocobolo frame which you can attach the caging material to. This would visually bring the wood upwards from the base and give it more visual "flow". Just a thought.

Have fun!
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post #144 of 3981
2/22/08 at 4:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by amphead View Post
No, but there will be a guard that prevents fingers from coming into contact with the High Voltage. I am still thinking about how I want to do that. Thanks
A solution I have used is to solder the components, except for the tube sockets, to the bottoms of the boards. Put the sockets on top and hang the boards under the top plate with some standoffs and cut holes for the tubes to poke through. A very sloppy version of this type of construction can be seen here: ecp.cc
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post #145 of 3981
2/22/08 at 8:03am
Thanks for the info Dsavitsk. Thats a beautiful amp! The boards in this design have some tall heatsinks, caps and other things that get in the way. (Although, if those components were mounted underneath the pcb, it would work). But, as they are mounted now, it means my tubes don't show nicely like in your design. There would be difficult cuts into my stainless top to make it work. I may have decided to only partially block fingers from HV. The top edges might get a 2 and 1/2 inch tall perimeter of 1/8 glass in the front and the 2 sides and the backplane with another material. Then the tubes and boards would show. The added weight would be a drawback however, because it is getting heavy already, without the 370DAX. ;-) Edit: lucite probably doesn't do well with the heat, and a cage mesh is ugly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dsavitsk View Post
A solution I have used is to solder the components, except for the tube sockets, to the bottoms of the boards. Put the sockets on top and hang the boards under the top plate with some standoffs and cut holes for the tubes to poke through. A very sloppy version of this type of construction can be seen here: ecp.cc
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post #146 of 3981
2/22/08 at 1:25pm
You can get drill bits for those tube holes here:

Audio Catalog
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post #147 of 3981
2/22/08 at 2:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazuki View Post
You can get drill bits for those tube holes here....
This is a great resource - have been looking for this type of drill for some time , I see punches from time to time but never sure how well they would work on steel.

I have yet to finalise the chassis but I plan on sticking the amp tubes through the top plate and house the transformer and psu in a protective "cage" behind the tubes. For anyone interested in a similar approach, the DAZ version of the transformer sits lower on the top plate and is approximately the same height as the assembled psu - allows for the cage part to be about 3in.

I know that there are some out there who have figured a way to mount that psu heatsink on the underside too and that really gets rid of all the possible issues of putting all the tubes on the top.

this is what my "naked" boards look like..dB

top

bottom

psu
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post #148 of 3981
2/22/08 at 3:26pm
Mine's sorta done - except for the temporary chassis (described by somebody as a cardboard honeycomb monocoque chassis with integrated airvents) .

1st pic -shows the airwiring of the PS tube socket

Amp tube sockets are right way up but PS tube socket is air-wired from below so the heatsink can stay on the correct side.


her shann
LL
LL
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post #149 of 3981
2/22/08 at 5:43pm
Quote:
This is a great resource - have been looking for this type of drill for some time , I see punches from time to time but never sure how well they would work on steel.

I have yet to finalise the chassis but I plan on sticking the amp tubes through the top plate and house the transformer and psu in a protective "cage" behind the tubes. For anyone interested in a similar approach, the DAZ version of the transformer sits lower on the top plate and is approximately the same height as the assembled psu - allows for the cage part to be about 3in.

I know that there are some out there who have figured a way to mount that psu heatsink on the underside too and that really gets rid of all the possible issues of putting all the tubes on the top.

this is what my "naked" boards look like..dB
Aren't you going to mount the rectifier tube on top too? It also gives off quite a bit of heat and is at least as tall as the 6N6P.
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post #150 of 3981
2/22/08 at 5:59pm
Thread Starter 
Yeah it will go on the top but it will be enclosed in a "cage" - I am having trouble finding exactly what I am after, when I do it will finished.

here is a 3d sketch up of the concept - the proportions are not correct but the idea is there..dB
LL
LL
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