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Bijou All Tube Futterman Headphone Amplifier - Page 9

post #121 of 3977
Quote:
Well Mazuki, now you've gone and done it. I purchased the Rubycon photo flash 410uF 300sv ouput caps. Its true, that since we have to block the DC in this design, that output caps are a neccessity. I might as well have the step up there. Hope the bass extends deep enough with 410uF vs 470uF. ;-)
Well, that's where you add another film cap, a Russian PIO or something, in parallel with it. You're lucky to have the production boards with the film cap trace on the board.
post #122 of 3977
95% of the parts have been ordered. Still need IRF820B, and found IRFS820B, which I think is the same part. Still need the Xicon metallized box caps. And need an EZ80. Tomorrow, I will cut and glue the Cocobolo to the Oak sides and top edge of the chassis. ;-)
post #123 of 3977
amphead if you can't locate irf820 you can use the Fairchild FQP4N50. The last time I looked, these were available at Mouser. They are listed on the Bijou web pages Parts List as a straight sub for the IRF mosfet.
post #124 of 3977
For some reason I haven't been getting email notification on this thread for a while. I've gone back a few pages to read the discussions.

In one segment Roam is talking about the operating point in the front end.

Any amp involves trade-offs. In this case, there was a current budget for the PS, a desire to not use a CCS for the plate load on the gain stage, and a desire to use the same B+ for the input and output stages to keep the transformer requirements to one HV secondary. Many of these trade-offs were to keep the cost down so that the amp $$ budget could fall into a realm where many diyers who wanted a tube amp could build one while still making a very good sounding amp.

The amp was originally designed to only use 6922s for the input stages. Nevertheless, there were quite a few folks who wanted to try 6N1P and 6H30 and I felt that the best answer was to provide a value for the cathode resistor that would set the voltage op points correctly. This is a better solution than having builders directly sub these tubes with no changes because not changing the cathode resistor really messes up the amp and, well, some folks were going to do this whether it was a good idea or not.

Some of the reviewers have simply substituted 6N6P into the front end and then noticed that, when they put 6922s in, the amp sounds a whole lot better.

The 6922 is running a bit lean in the first two stages. Doing so lets us use the 100k plate resistor to get a respectable curve from the 6922 without a CCS. But it is still running in the lower part of the plate curves where it is less linear than if we were running 10mA through it.

A 6N1P also runs a bit lean and at less than optimum voltages. Adjusting the cathode resistor sets the voltage operating points to where they should be for the amp and lets the 6N1P function reasonably well.

The 6H30 is a bit more problematic because it really wants to run at higher idle currents. But the amp is not designed to support 10mA in the front end on both channels. So the 6H30 has to run lean too.

Most folks tend to judge an amp, ultimately, by the way it sounds and it was clear that most of the builders wanted roll the at least one or two tubes in and out to decide which ones they liked best. Some folks are liking the sound of the 6H30 even though it is not in optimal operating condition.

Well, who am I to say who is right when it comes to nuances in the sound? I want everyone to use 6922s because that's what I designed, but when you build it it's your amp.

On the NFB. The NFB has two purposes. First, as Roam said, it lowers the Zo for low Z headphones. It also reduces the THD for the lower Z headphones. Driving 32R directly is not easy for the output tubes. Some of their non-linearities become more prominent. The easiest way to fix this is to provide some amount of NFB. The NFB also has the added effect of reducing the gain so that the vol pot has some range for the low Z headphones.

Prototypers have also noticed that the adjustable NFB affects the sound stage in a way that the listeners can easily hear. Different listeners find different settings that suite their listening styles.

I hope this clarifies some of the thinking behind a few of the things that are happening with this amp. If not, please let me know.
post #125 of 3977
I finished my Bijou this morning and it is working great. Other than a loose heater wire there was no problems getting it running. I have been listening to it all day and it is sounding very nice. This is the only amp I own that can drive my K701's with authority. As far as listening impressions, it is still breaking in but so far it has exceeded all my expectations. Thanks to Alex for designing this amp and making it available to Diy'ers and to Mike for helping me build and troubleshoot.





post #126 of 3977
willisv, where did you pick up that nice terminal strip? I've been looking for that style term strip for some time and haven't been able to find any
post #127 of 3977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebby View Post
willisv, where did you pick up that nice terminal strip? I've been looking for that style term strip for some time and haven't been able to find any
I just found it on the shelf of my local electronics shop. You could also use the screw head type (don't know what they call it) and put lugs on your wires.
post #128 of 3977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nebby View Post
willisv, where did you pick up that nice terminal strip? I've been looking for that style term strip for some time and haven't been able to find any
I have seen them at Radioshack
post #129 of 3977
Really nice job willisv. I wish that my wiring were that clean.

Glad you like the amp too.
post #130 of 3977
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedro View Post
I have seen them at Radioshack
Now if only they had radio shacks in Japan, I'd be set! I'm slowly digging thru the Digikey catalog, and I think I might have found some, was just wondering where other folks got theirs.

BTW, great build willisv. I hope mine will be as cleanly done. How hot does it get?

I'm planning on building a balanced Bijou amp once I get the chance, have a few other projects lined up first though.
post #131 of 3977
Nebby, willisv has done a brilliant job on his wiring.

But, it is not necessary to use additional terminal blocks to wire the Bijou completely. There is a section at Cavalli Audio that describes the procedure for wiring without addtional terminals.

Please let me know if this does or does not help.
post #132 of 3977
Quote:
Originally Posted by runeight View Post
Really nice job willisv. I wish that my wiring were that clean.

Glad you like the amp too.
Thanks, next time I won't use car battery cable to wire though
post #133 of 3977
willisv, what case is that and it looks like it barely clears the tubes. How much headroom in the case is there?
post #134 of 3977
Quote:
Originally Posted by runeight View Post
Nebby, willisv has done a brilliant job on his wiring.

But, it is not necessary to use additional terminal blocks to wire the Bijou completely. There is a section at Cavalli Audio that describes the procedure for wiring without addtional terminals.

Please let me know if this does or does not help.
Oh I'm well aware that the Bijou doesn't require a terminal strip to be wired up. I'm looking to stock up on them for some other projects where having one will make the cabling much neater

Btw, are there any concerns I should take into consideration if I am going to build a balanced version? Aside from the wiring changes for input/output and the need for two sets of PS/2x amp boards.
post #135 of 3977
Quote:
Originally Posted by holland View Post
willisv, what case is that and it looks like it barely clears the tubes. How much headroom in the case is there?
The tubes are sticking out but I'm probably not putting a cover on it. If I do it will be a mesh screen of some sort, this thing puts out a lot of heat. The case is a steel Hammond part# HAMMOND 1441-24 from parts connection. It is 12" x 8" x 3".
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