Little Dot MKIII Tube Rolling - Page 183

Dear S60R, congratulations to the amp and all your tubes. I can understand you got the LD MK IV SE. Retrospectively, I would have done the same, especially because the starting tube setup is very nice with M8100 and the more costly 6H30PI Gold-Pin power tubes.

Tube compatibility is actually identical between MKIII and MKIV with the newer MKIII models (> V2.0).

I am aware off that there are the same alternative tube rolling on both Little dot's, but that is only the driver tubes that Applies on, and it has helped me a lot.
But it is better power tubes available on the MKIV, that's what I meant in the thread.

I realized only after I had posted my first post that I put it under the wrong title, it should have been under the MKIV SE thread ... sorry ...

Will eventually upgrade with a Little dot DAC or it will be a used XTZ 100 D3 Class A, that is a combined amplifier and DAC.
It has gained enormous good rating from what I can find among my hi-fi magazines & online. 'll Just explore it a little bit more before I decide which one of them it will be.

with kind regards, S60R.

Cheers for posting here anyways. Your experience with different tubes may be quite well transferable to the MKIII as along as we are aware of your setup. So please keep on posting =).

The same tube compatibility applies to both, power and driver tubes with the newer LD MKIII ( > 2.0). The main disadvantage of the older MKIII 1.0 version was that the 6H30-power tubes were not compatible. Since version V 2.0 this has changed and 6H30-power tubes can be used as well.

I did not know that the MK III' was updated on the drive side as well.
I had not found this information when I compared the 2 Little dot's, but I believe you on your word. Thanks for the enlightenment!

I have not got the time to listen to my MK IV SE until this weekend, by the way, has not been any of that so far this week either because of a lot of overtime at work.
One advantage is that I can afford to update my equipment even earlier now.

I've only collected 15 hours. so far on my new AKG K701 & the Dott, and I use my home theater amplifier, Yamaha RXV-3800 (BurrBrown-Dac) & a Denon DVD (1940) for now. But what a difference there is in music now compared to before, when I was without headphones & the Little dot!
Now I hear so much more details and instruments in the background than I have ever been aware of that it existed.
The only thing I miss now is the base, but it's probably the headphones that's hang's on, because they (from what I've read) requires a minimum of 120h. before they are ready and sound like they should.

I have experimented with many different settings on my Yamaha, but I will leave that aside for now, but my little dot works best with the gain setting 10 & Use so far, the original tubes.
It seems that there are no problems with overheating with that setting, it is only slightly warmer than the body heat.
At gain 4 & 5 where the sound poorer and it got much warmer.

I am a perfectionist, so it is a sure thing that it will be more dedicated upgrades soon.

OMG. more money will flow from my wallet!
But I was warned about it at an early stage and it will totaly be worth it!

Have a nice day / night, depending on which side of the Earth you are...

Hey Guys,

Do you know if the power measurements (mA) of individual tubes, given by the sellers influence the sound in any way? More gain maybe?

Hallom, I found between EF95 (175 mA), EF92 (200 mA) and EF91 (300 mA) that the sound becomes louder in this chronology. This additional power may be useful to reveal the full dynamics of your headphone.

Acapella11, I mean measurements within the same type of tubes like these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-TESTED-PAIR-TUBES-6J1P-GOLD-GRID-EF95-6F32-6AK5-NOS-80s-PAIR-SUPER-STRONG-/310512114205?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item484bf6da1d&_uhb=1

For example the Ia (no idea what's that exactly) within the same type of 6J1P seems to vary between 5-9 mA. It seems like a significant difference, does it have anything to do with sound quality?

Sorry, I am not sure about that. Possibly, gain is larger but SQ can vary with getter construction, year of production and other manufacturing alterations such that this is difficult to say.

funny, I did get the sovtek and was running them with the voskod's for the last month, sounded amazing, so much detail and depth, really get into the mix. i have today put in the mullard cv 4010 and they sound really warm straight out of the box. it is a more enveloping sound is my initial reaction, i am imagining they will open up as they run in but very i am pleased i bought them. will give them a month too and then switch to the sylvania's, my most expensive tubes at nearly £50.00 for the matched pair, the voshkod's being the cheapest at only about £20.00.

really love my little dot amp and the combination with hd650 is really a revelation to me. z

Hi zedmeco, which Sovteks did you get? I also found them (6H30-EV) better than any other power tube, if only the driver tube is not too bright. Which Mullard CV4010 did you get, the one without Mullard label?

I'd suggest you try a EF92-family tube as well (e.g. CV 4015), I found the difference (even) larger than between different power tubes towards the Sovteks. It might need a different power tube than the Sovtek for good matching.

But most of all: Enjoy the music!

At the risk of sounding like  a complete idiot (i have  LD amp arriving soon enough)

I understand the process of tube rolling,(take out, put new tubes in, basic enough) and know which tubes id like, 

but what do you mean by "jumper off" ?

thanks :)

Does anyone know if (Brimar) CV4033 can be used in a Mk iii?  My limited research seems to say they are equivalent to CV4010?

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlwilladsen 

Does anyone know if (Brimar) CV4033 can be used in a Mk iii?  My limited research seems to say they are equivalent to CV4010?

the cv 4033 has a 9 pin base the littledot has 7 pins.

Oops ... coulda checked that, I guess ... that's probably a NO then.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlwilladsen 

Does anyone know if (Brimar) CV4033 can be used in a Mk iii?  My limited research seems to say they are equivalent to CV4010?

The CV4033 (Brimar F6060) is a flying-lead CV4024 (Brimar 6060), an ECC81/12AT7 equivalent. In no way is it equivalent to the CV4010.