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Little Dot MKIII Tube Rolling - Page 14

post #196 of 2853
I received my 2 pairs of Mullard EF91's from Argentina this afternoon!!
I put one set in my LDII++, and then reconfigured my MKII for the other set.
Initial impressions from both amps, "These sound like great Mullards, right out of the box!" I'll run them for 40-50hrs and follow up.

On a side note, I had a matched pair of EF92 6CQ6 Haltrons in the LDII++, for over 60 hrs. In the end, they sound exactly like the 6CQ6 Mullards. If another set becomes available, don't hesitate to pull the trigger. Very, very nice indeed! The price was 1/3 of the Mullards!
post #197 of 2853
Tomorrow I will call Leeds Radio and order some adapter parts. They responded to my inquiry. From what they said, it will take some creativity to fashion the adapters, but I’m up to the challenge.

So Penchum (and others), what 5687 tubes should I look to buy? Tung Sol’s seem to be the default hot ticket - what are you using with those Ruskie EF95’s that you’re all rev’d up about? (and that I have on the way)

BTW, David Z responded to my question on the view in the pin diagram. It is the bottom view.
post #198 of 2853
Quote:
Originally Posted by ethebull View Post
Tomorrow I will call Leeds Radio and order some adapter parts. They responded to my inquiry. From what they said, it will take some creativity to fashion the adapters, but I’m up to the challenge.

So Penchum (and others), what 5687 tubes should I look to buy? Tung Sol’s seem to be the default hot ticket - what are you using with those Ruskie EF95’s that you’re all rev’d up about? (and that I have on the way)

BTW, David Z responded to my question on the view in the pin diagram. It is the bottom view.
For the 5687's, it is wide open. Old Tung-Sols would be nice, GE 5-Stars or WWII era are nice, so would the purity of the newer Philips. Amperex 7119's will cost plenty, the Arcturus 7044 is my NOS favorite right now.

The Russian tubes are EF95 compatibles. So, that might be an interesting combination with 5687's Man, an adapter is going to open up choices like totally!!! My brain just ran off with itself!!
post #199 of 2853
Parts are ordered, wires are ready...
LL
post #200 of 2853

Mullard M8100 with shields

.
post #201 of 2853
I found some Mullard M8100 printed with the Mullard Shield on ebay, thought I'd pass the info along for anyone interested in trying out some of the best Mullards ever made.

Mullard M8100 / CV4010 Mil. Spec. Little Dot Amp EF95 - eBay (item 280199380432 end time Feb-15-08 17:33:04 PST)
post #202 of 2853

DT880 + MKIII

Hello,

Is there someone here with the Beyerdynamic DT880 ?

I'd like to know what would be the best tubes to soften the highs of my DT880 a little bit ?

Currently I have the stock tubes and I should receive the Mullards 8161 soon.

Thanks
post #203 of 2853
I don't own the Beyer's, but as my K701's were breaking in, I experimented with "donuts" inserted into the earcups. You can definately tailor (reduce) the highs that way. Figuring it would only be a temporary need, I just used a paper towel to fashon the donut "filter". Now that the 701's are burned in nicely, I don't feel the need to donut them - you might want to give it a try on your DT's, an interesting experiment regardless.
post #204 of 2853
Quote:
Originally Posted by ethebull View Post
I don't own the Beyer's, but as my K701's were breaking in, I experimented with "donuts" inserted into the earcups. You can definately tailor (reduce) the highs that way. Figuring it would only be a temporary need, I just used a paper towel to fashon the donut "filter". Now that the 701's are burned in nicely, I don't feel the need to donut them - you might want to give it a try on your DT's, an interesting experiment regardless.

Thanks for the tip
post #205 of 2853
Quote:
Originally Posted by ethebull View Post
Parts are ordered, wires are ready...
Well my progress on this adaptor thingy.One of them anyway, and less complex then another idea I had.

For the pin outs to connect to the MK3, that was easy. (just re-used the bottom glass section of the 6h6n, very carefully sawed off-CRUDE!!) "YES a tube got sacrificed".Next bend/solder some copper wire to the correct pin out for 5687 to a 9 pin socket.Looks like a maze (difficult not for them to touch) in this section. Next to get everything to stay into position. Im thinking about making up a mould, and pouring resin into it to set rock hard. With the 6h6n pins out at one end and the socket for the 5687 out the other end. Problem is that its going to be slightly wider then the tube. So those beautifull MK3 tube rings may have to go

Still toying with a PCB section where the wires section are now to decrease the overall height.

Man it to much work to get this of the ground and working.
Should just enjoy those Russian tube as they are shouldn't I?
post #206 of 2853
Quote:
Originally Posted by headcheck View Post
Man it's too much work to get this off the ground and working.
Should just enjoy those Russian tubes as they are shouldn't I?
Yeah, curiosity killed the tube roller. I've been shopping around looking for 5687/7119's and I'm really wondering why I started down this path in making adapters. If anything, I should make an adapter to allow folks stuck using uber expensive 5687's to convert over to the excellent and affordable 6H6n's.

Recieved my litle parts package yesterday. Still working out the best way to stack and secure everything.
LL
post #207 of 2853
Quote:
Originally Posted by ethebull View Post
Yeah, curiosity killed the tube roller. I've been shopping around looking for 5687/7119's and I'm really wondering why I started down this path in making adapters. If anything, I should make an adapter to allow folks stuck using uber expensive 5687's to convert over to the excellent and affordable 6H6n's.

Recieved my litle parts package yesterday. Still working out the best way to stack and secure everything.
If there is a PVC pipe with interior diameter about the same as the socket's outer diameter? I was envisioning this with a short piece of the next size down piping glued inside as a shelf for the socket to rest on and get glued in place. You could make the outer pipe just long enough to house the wires in a 360 degree twist, or just enough twist to put most tube's logo directly forward on the amp. Paint the pipe to match the amp. Bad idea?
post #208 of 2853
Quote:
Originally Posted by Penchum View Post
If there is a PVC pipe with interior diameter about the same as the socket's outer diameter? I was envisioning this with a short piece of the next size down piping glued inside as a shelf for the socket to rest on and get glued in place. You could make the outer pipe just long enough to house the wires in a 360 degree twist, or just enough twist to put most tube's logo directly forward on the amp. Paint the pipe to match the amp. Bad idea?
I'm concerned about glue. Many epoxy glues break down (liquify) at 250 degrees or so and I want these things to be rock solid. I'm going to go to the hardware store and radioshack to look at stuff today. One thought is to use a thin long countersunk fine threaded machine screw down the center of the assembly.
post #209 of 2853
Quote:
Originally Posted by ethebull View Post
I'm concerned about glue. Many epoxy glues break down (liquify) at 250 degrees or so and I want these things to be rock solid. I'm going to go to the hardware store and radioshack to look at stuff today. One thought is to use a thin long countersunk fine threaded machine screw down the center of the assembly.
Interesting. I guess I was hoping the heat would be less, with the tube being open to the air on a pedestal.
post #210 of 2853

what do you think?

Looks like it'll do. Copper pipe cap drilled for wires. Assembly held together with a fine threaded machine screw
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