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iBasso P2 - Page 8

post #106 of 324
The bass switch on the back of the P2 that has three steps that go from no enhancement to major bass enhancement, really works quite well. I normally do not like these functions but the control on this does not mess up the lower midrange and with some music it really adds to the impact. Oh, I don't use it very much, but I am impressed. I can see where it could be very helpful with some IEM's and headphones that are bass deficient.
post #107 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopper View Post
Me, I would rather have ordered a P2 and a D1.
If D1 has gain and bass boost setting i forget the Hornet. Now waiting for the P2

Could someone post the link where to get lots of opamps coz parts connexion has limited choices.

Thanks a lot!
post #108 of 324
I received my amp P2 after waiting a whole 4 days after ordering. It sounded pretty good out of the box, but of course I had to get right to some op-amp rolling. I tried out THS4032 in both positions and it sounded fantastic compared to the stock op-amps. Unfortunately, there is a slight problem with the THS4032's. I did some testing with my multimeter, and I got readings of -.75 and 0.00 coming from the headphone out, which means there is too much offset voltage. The safe zone is considered +/- .30 mv. Testing from the input and ouput I got a similar reading. Anything above or below is considered unsafe for your headphones as well as your ears. I've also tried out OPA2107's on both, and am currently listening with OPA2107 on L/R and AD8066 in the buffer position. Both combinations sound really good, and tested safe. All I can say is this amp is a fantastic buy for the money, and I'm anxious to hear what it can do fully burned-in.
post #109 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopper View Post
That was predictable. Don't use the THS4032 in the P2.

.75 V btw?
Yup, I was a little shocked myself, literally... I checked about 4 times just to make sure. It was actually milli-volts, not volts- big difference.
post #110 of 324
Currently listening to the P2 with OPA2107 in L/R and 2 AD797 on a DIP 2/1 adaptor that I had previously trimmed down. This type of adaptor will fit in the buffer channel (barely) as long as the sides are trimmed down as much as possible. This combination offers a little more detail than having OPA2107 in both channels, and the bass is very tight. I'd like to try the AD797's in the L/R channel but there's no way to make it fit. I'll have to get some SOIC 797's and try it out. I always loved the AD797's sound in the HR-2. I was pleasantly surprised that the multimeter readings with AD797 checked out with almost no offset whatsoever (the readings were -.03, and -.05). I also tried the AD797's in buffer postion with AD8066, and although it sounded pretty good the soundstage and spaciousness seemed to suffer a bit by comprison to the 797 and 2107 combo.
post #111 of 324
Sorry, I was writing down from memory. The exact readings from the headphone out with AD797 in buffer and OPA2107 L/R are .000 and .003.
post #112 of 324
I am running the P2 with the stock opamp bypassed right at the pins from V+ (8) to V- (4) and the sound quality increased when I soldered a .47uf and a 47uf Black Gate HiQ. I continue to hear positive changes. I speed that allows for a better separation of notes and dynamic type of pacing. The idea is to get the lead on the V+ as short as possible and using a longer lead to V-. This can be done with any opamp and if a shorter standoff is used, the caps could be soldered directly to the socket, which would allow for the normal rolling of opamps. this is on the L/R opamp.
post #113 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopper View Post
Btw, do you like the OPA2107 in L/R better than the LT1364? And, could you say what are the sonic differences?
The original configuration was NE5532 in L/R, and LT1364 in the buffer position. I haven't tried LT1364 in L/R since I first removed it. I'm really impressed with the current configuration I have in place now- OPA2107 in L/R, AD797's in buffer. Very detailed, very spacious sounding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamato8 View Post
I am running the P2 with the stock opamp bypassed right at the pins from V+ (8) to V- (4) and the sound quality increased when I soldered a .47uf and a 47uf Black Gate HiQ. I continue to hear positive changes. I speed that allows for a better separation of notes and dynamic type of pacing. The idea is to get the lead on the V+ as short as possible and using a longer lead to V-. This can be done with any opamp and if a shorter standoff is used, the caps could be soldered directly to the socket, which would allow for the normal rolling of opamps. this is on the L/R opamp.
I'd love to see pics of this. Sounds kind of on the adventurous side for me. I'm not even really considering upgrading the caps to Black Gates as the Panasonics are of very good quality. Those small caps on the side of the buffer channel look like they could use improvement,however.
post #114 of 324
The original is the LT1364 in the L/R and the NE5532 in the ground and management socket. The buffers are the discrete 3 legged standing transistors.

Panasonics or not, nothing is like a Black Gate. :^)
post #115 of 324
Thread Starter 
According to iBasso, the opamp used in IC2 socket is not critical to the SQ. Any quality dual-channel opamp can be used.

I am using the ADA4841-2 due to its very low noise and very low current requirements. The square-wave response of this opamp is also very good. All of these traits to me are desirable in opamps used in audio amplifiers. I have noticed no audible difference by changing the IC-2 opamp and have tried maybe 6 or 8 different ones.

The choice of LR opamp markedly affects the sound signature.
post #116 of 324
Mine just came in the mail less than 24 hours ago. Probably played about 2 something hours of music on it. I'm using a Pioneer CLD-S201 Laserdisc player and RS-1s. I'm using a regular, $6 RCA to mini cable or whatever it's called. I have no idea if cables make a huge difference or if they're just a high profit item with low manufacturing cost which has no real benefit.

I also tried with with my SR-60s some, even though I really don't use them anymore. Works pretty good with those too.

Compared to my GoVibe V5, this amp gets a lot more bass, even on its lowest setting. I'd say it's got like 25% more bass. I'm not sure how much detail it loses in comparison.

A lot of it depends on the recording. Some hard rock stuff like Tooth and Nail and Painkiller are pretty harsh with either amp. The vocals on "Just got Lucky" are particularly harsh and distorted during the bridge and chorus.

Note that I do not listen to modern, compressed music anymore.

The extra bass settings remind me of the days when I used MDRV600s and this old, weak technics receiver and drenched everything in bass, to the max.

With Painkiller, a lot of the cymbal crash hits are harsh. I don't know if that will improve as the amp burns in or if it's a fault in the production.

I have the gain up on the highest setting too.

Volume-wise, it feels about the same as the GoVibe. Maybe I can't push it as high because of the extra bass.

I think some of the detail I heard with the GoVibe has been covered up with the extra bass, but not to any real notable extent.

I do wish this PS2 had a 4th bass setting that took the bass down a notch from where it is at its lowest.

The GoVibe sounded very balanced with a lot of cds, but some cds(like most of the Capitol Iron Maiden cds) lacked bass.

That lack of bass was a worse problem then the Ibasso providing just slightly too much bass for some cds now. It's a good trade off.

I'd use my GoVibe on some stuff and the Ibasso on most if I wasn't given the Ibasso as a replacement. I just figured if my mom was gonna buy my brother an amp for SR-80s, why not give him the GoVibe and get something that better suits the RS-1s.

I went with this Ibasso because of the bass switch. Since there's no way for me to really hear any amp before buying except the RA-1 at Audio Consultants, that switch seemed like insurance. That I'd get what I wanted out of the amp.

A new source may be a good idea. It's just that I wasn't too impressed with the sound I heard from a $700 Rotel cd player and some $3000 one. I was testing out the RS-1s and the 325Is at the time.

Maybe I'd notice more now that I've had RS-1s for a while. I just know that my experience using the LD player and RS-1s with the same albums I tried at AC felt basically the same. I used my GoVibe and the RA-1 at the store.

I have no idea how all this op amps stuff works. Is there some newbie guy to modding all your stuff? All my stuff is stock, no mods. I'd love to meet someone around Chicago that knows about modding and all.

At some point maybe I'll look at a new source or a different amp. As it stands, this sounds quite good.
post #117 of 324
Mine sounds good out of the box, the synergy between A808 and P2 suites my sound preference warm with tight bass and crisp highs. I cant imagine how it will perform after burning in and rolling the opamps.

post #118 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopper View Post
You may find out that you prefer the stock opamps.

It happens, when the stock opamp is the LT1364
Maybe youre right Shopper,I'm thinking I might go back to the stock opamp after rolling several opamps.

The stock seems right to my ears my only complain is the low gain setting is lacking some kick with my current IEM's. Anyhow the mid gain is enough and high gain is too much.

Please post summary and review of opamps for this amp.
post #119 of 324
I have been using the stock L/R opamp and like the sound just fine. It has the qualities I am looking for.

Oscons are good in the digital section, which is where I use them in my own stuff. They tend to work better there than Black Gates. BG's in the analog section are my preference and after many hours of use are doing a great job of getting out of the way of the music.
post #120 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shopper View Post
Thanks for the information. I have some Oscons but I haven't had the chance to try them yet. I guess I won't use them in analog audio circuits; probably others are better there.

Do you maybe know what brand and series were the stock small caps in the P2? Just curiosity.
I will have to look at what I took out.

Sorry, what I meant was that I feel and I have read this from other places, that the Oscons work better in digital than BG's but they are also fine in the analog section. I just like BG's but they take a long time to form and do better if left in something that keeps a charge on them as they can lose the forming after a period of time and it takes a few days to get them back but not as long as it originally did.
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