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The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G! - Page 50

post #736 of 2514
1/15/08 at 3:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
jamess71:

I feel your pain. I snapped the latch on the click wheel of my nano, and it took me almost a week to fix it. What the latch does is ensure contact between the copper pads on the board and in the ribbon cable. Try slipping some paper behind the ribbon cable as you slip it into the slot. You will have to experiment with different paper stiffness and thickness just to find the right fit. Fold it in two, four, or try construction paper, glossy photo paper, regular white paper. Photo paper might be good for it.
Good idea. For some reason I was thinking there were contacts on both sides of the cable. So if they are only on the one side this should do the trick, I'll let you know.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Apple 30 GB iPod with Video Playback Black (5th Generation)
iPod Nano Headset Music Player
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Apple iPod classic 160 GB Black (6th Generation) OLD MODEL
post #737 of 2514
1/15/08 at 9:57pm

Hot glue gun

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamess71 View Post
Ok guys I'm in a jam. I opened up my iPod yesterday to check out this project.

I broke the little latch that holds lcd screen cable in place. I put it all back together hoping it didn't need that latch to make connectivity on that cable. Now my screen is just white. Where can I get one of these little latches? Thanks for any help.

James
Well if you F#@k all latched up you can use hot glue gun for sealing up the ipod before closure for sure it is more water resistence if u seal it all round
i hope this answer your Question
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post #738 of 2514
1/16/08 at 9:54am
never mind this, was a redundant reply. joneeboi's got it covered.

btw jon, I think you've got a good idea, you just have to be prepared to back it up.. I think that will take a lot. I think you should play around with a few more pods before deciding whether to embark or not, and make sure you can supply consistent results, that you're willing to insure.
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post #739 of 2514
1/16/08 at 10:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
jamess71:

I feel your pain. I snapped the latch on the click wheel of my nano, and it took me almost a week to fix it. What the latch does is ensure contact between the copper pads on the board and in the ribbon cable. Try slipping some paper behind the ribbon cable as you slip it into the slot. You will have to experiment with different paper stiffness and thickness just to find the right fit. Fold it in two, four, or try construction paper, glossy photo paper, regular white paper. Photo paper might be good for it.

.

Thanks I'll try it tonight and let you know.
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post #740 of 2514
1/16/08 at 2:00pm
Thread Starter 
I was revisiting the digital-out diyMod since things have somewhat settled down, and, depending on your definition of the word, it seems it's actually really straightforward. From what I can gather, the digital out I2S signal from the transports on CD players can only run so long before picking up interference and generally losing the signal, so we have the same problem with the diyMod. The digital out mod would be more for the extreme tweakers because first of all, you have to solder to the tiny QFN28 package's pins. That's not fun for any sane human being. Then you have to decide how to connect the signal to your DAC. I Googled the matter and I couldn't find any dedicated I2S connector; maybe someone can fill me in. In any case, the digital out mod would be very personalized as far as I understand, and it would be difficult to hammer out a universal method for everyone.

First, a little context. The I2S standard in the iPod uses four signals: Master clock, Bit Clock, DACLRC (DAC audio interface left/right clock/clock out, and DAC data. You just need to solder some fine wires to these pins, send them to your DAC, and you're done. I'll have to do some work researching which popular DACs have I2S input and see how they connect, but at the very least, we can rehash the subject.
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post #741 of 2514
1/16/08 at 3:02pm

Anyone know what those DZP# location chips are?

All the ipod PCBs I've seen around here have chips at DZP# locations connecting to lineouts at the dock connector.... It's DZP5 on my 3G & DZP2 on the 5G.

The guides to date that route through dock connector lineouts appear to consider the removal of the 4 inductors near the dock as isolating/disconnecting the lineouts (my guide included - I also left that chip @ DZP# location intact - appears not to introduce L/R/G lineout route/resistance nor a route back to the CODEC in my brief tests).

Before really committing to a process for this, we should know what that little guy is for

Guess we're leaving the inclusion of resistor to ground & series resistor with our cap mods as optional (although they appear in various Wolfson info).

BTW, I'd also consider 30 awg wire wrap as a *minimum* diameter wire since we are also trying to avoid/bypass the little, thin PCB traces w/this mod. For 3Gs & 4Gs I'd now consider 28 awg wire wrap wire (mouser had 100ft for like $12 I think) and as short routing as reasonable.
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post #742 of 2514
1/16/08 at 3:48pm
Opus DAC =D

..I originally thought the alien dac for a second, but on second inspection I guess not.. i mean, the PCM2702 at-least.. ohwell, I had a flash of a perfect portable combo just go poof. poof.
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post #743 of 2514
1/16/08 at 6:05pm
x-post - hoping I could get some more help here.

To whomever can help me

I have a 1700 Mah PDA batt lithium polymer 3.7V and I'm gonna drill a hole in the pod 4g/mini.
planning on attaching the wires directly to the board
now since the wires in the connector are set up different from the Ipods Ive pulled them free and am just gonna place them where they would go & then Hot glue them so they cant move.

Ques is: would I be better off taking this battery and soldering it to a dock connector and use it that way (plugged into the bottom) / or the would the way I described above work better ? ..& would I be required to keep the OE batt. inside so that the PDA batt will work

(dont imagine so cause it works plugged into the wall w/o a batt.)

Thx.
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post #744 of 2514
1/16/08 at 6:21pm
Thread Starter 
If someone can reverse a USB to I2S converter, you might be able to do the Alien thing. Then again, you'd probably have a hard time finding that kind of product. Google hasn't shown anything, but if any of you know about that. But taking a look at the Opus briefly, it's kind of ironic you'd be bypassing the iPod's Wolfson for another. Of course, it's not just any Wolfson we're talking about in the Opus. Thanks for that, ruZZ.

EightTrack:

Use the dock connector. You'll thank yourself later, that is unless the hot glue forms into some sort of dock-connector shape.

cfcubed:

I think I'll pick up a roll each of the 28AWG wire wrapping spools on my next Mouser round up. Let's see what Digikey has first; their shipping is easier for me to swallow.

I'll look further into the transistor-looking DZP device you were talking about.
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post #745 of 2514
1/16/08 at 6:38pm
"Use the dock connector. You'll thank yourself later, that is unless the hot glue forms into some sort of dock-connector shape."

haha thanks man that for sure seems the easiest way, although I wasnt reffering to gluing them directly to the dock sorry if thats the impression I gave. meant glue it to the board where the OE batt. would plug into.

Thanks a bunch
-8T
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post #746 of 2514
1/16/08 at 7:48pm
Thread Starter 
If I understand correctly, you want to remove the white pluggy part and just solder+hot glue the wires straight to the board; IOW, desoldering the female battery connector, soldering wires, etc. Do I have that right? I guess you could do that too, but it'd be more hassle replacing it or simply temporarily removing it for further diyModding if you do remove the battery connector.
Even for safety's sake, you'd want to remove the battery for maintenance. Maybe you're planning on holding your disrobed iPod in a long sheet of aluminum foil to just toss it from foil-covered hand to foil-covered hand. You simply can't do that if you permanently keep your battery wired in like that.
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post #747 of 2514
1/16/08 at 8:08pm
HAHA, Point well made & yes you had that correct minus the *(IOW)* cause I dont know what that means

*********edit********
looked into it and the oe pod batt. is 3.7v

been messing around w/ different config. and the best I can come up w/ is that the OE batt might be less Volts than the 1 I'm currently trying to use at 3.7v cause I cant get this to work regardless of where I place the wires on the board.

Now I gotta wait for a dock connector to arrive (once I order it)


Thanks Joneeboi appreciate the help

anychance anyone here knows which pins on the dock connector I would need to solder to just for charging purposes
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post #748 of 2514
1/16/08 at 9:22pm
A few pages back a few of us made docks that can charge, play music, and sync at the same time. Look at the pin layouts on the iPod Linux site. You only need USB power + and -
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post #749 of 2514
1/16/08 at 9:53pm
Thread Starter 
My goodness, I think I totally misunderstood the question. You're trying to charge via the 30-pin dock connector? You're going to need some sort of voltage higher than 3.7VDC if you want to charge. Like Christine said, you could use a 5V USB supply. What I saw once on another site was some guy plugging a 9V into the FireWire V+ and GND to charge/add extra run time. For Firewire, you can leave pins in slots 19 and 20 for V+ and for pins 29 and 30 you use for GND. For USB power, use pin 23 for V+ and 15, 16 for GND. I don't know which standard charges more efficiently, but either way, I don't think your PDA battery will be able to fill the charging position. You could say it...can't...take charge...

I have plenty more battery jokes where that one came from.
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post #750 of 2514
1/16/08 at 10:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post
Guess we're leaving the inclusion of resistor to ground & series resistor with our cap mods as optional (although they appear in various Wolfson info).
Talking to myself here, but I guess series resistors are not really desired even if they are in various Wolfson docs... They would serve to nullify most gains from fancy lineout cables, etc & is probably why RWA may be leaving them out.
I *think* they are there for protection of the CODEC against lineout shorts.. Perhaps those can be eliminated or be much < 100 ohms to help SQ (at some risk?).

The ones going to ground can probably be 47k -> 100k if they are used... I *think* they help to stabilize things based on lineout impedance/load.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Apple 30 GB iPod with Video Playback Black (5th Generation)
iPod Nano Headset Music Player
Powered by NexTag
Apple iPod classic 160 GB Black (6th Generation) OLD MODEL
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Misc.-Category Forums › DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions › The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G!