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The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G! - Page 174

post #2596 of 3017
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrobe View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


 

700

 

700

 

 

So I am going to share a pointer to help anyone trying the direct to dock pins method - Have a dead iPod or iPod dock available to "harvest" some extra pins from the female dock. The pins are extremely frail, fussy, and easy to lose. Once separated from the board they pull right out of the dock. It really isn't that hard to remove them. The ones on the iPod you you are working on - you will want to desolder while getting an xacto blade tip behind them and they pop right off. 

 

Any "spares" you get from a donor you can just use that xacto knife blade to wildly cut them off the board then pull them from the dock with small tweezers. 

 

You will want to solder your wires to the pins while they are removed from the dock. If you look at the dock, counting from the left, you are operating on pins #3 and 4. #3 is right signal, #4 is left signal.  On pin #3 you will want to solder your wire kind of on the left side of it, on pin #4 solder kind of on the right. The first time I soldered the wires centered on the pins and just the thin film of solder on each was thick enough that when the pins were back in the dock they were touching intermittently. The area here is soooo small that you want to verify individual pin isolation and continuity (as needed) with a multimeter.

 

When the pins go back into the dock they are all wacky and fussy as well so you want to make sure they are seated properly in their grooves on the other side of the dock and hit them with a dab of hot glue to secure them. 

 

 

just to re-confirm my options:
 

if I decided to go

A.  Z Pads > Caps > Pin Out 3 (Right Signal) & 4 (Left Signal)

 

 

 

Blue: Left Signal

Green: Right Signal

 

1. only need to remove the zcaps to give you access to the solder pads

2. iPod dock available to "harvest" some extra pins from the female dock

 

does it means that i buy another dock to harvest the pins?

will this kind of dock suffice?

 

 

 

 

 

 

i have to pry open & harvest the females in the red circle right?

 

 

to remove the pins from the ipod board, it needs to be desoldered from the board? or desolder and cut them loose using xacto blace tip? and when inserting, does it suppossed to be soldered back to the board?

 

3. clean the pins with isopropanol, and then slide them back in and epoxy them in place.

 

 

B. using solder pad beneath (south end) L2 & L3

 

1. Remove The Z Caps north of DAC

2. Solder wire from DAC > Caps > Solder Pad

 

 

 

top: Left Signal

Bottom: Right Signal

if i chose to solder on the empty solder pad like the picture, is it okay to not desoldered L2, L3 & C84, C85?

 

or is it best to not desolder L2, L3 & C84, C85, and solder the wires to the L2 & L3? like :

 

 

L2: Right Signal

L3: Left Signal

 

-------------------------------------------------------

 

is it that correct?

 

so if i decided to build my own LOD, does it still have the necessity to solder the 68K resistor for both methods?

and does the Fat/Thick back ipod enclosure compatible with the 30gb ipod 5th frame & front enclosure?

post #2597 of 3017

Hey, let my try to answer some of these questions, responses are in bold:

Quote:
Originally Posted by elbandito View Post

 

 

just to re-confirm my options:
 

if I decided to go

A.  Z Pads > Caps > Pin Out 3 (Right Signal) & 4 (Left Signal)

 

 

 

Blue: Left Signal

Green: Right Signal

 

1. only need to remove the zcaps to give you access to the solder pads

 

Yes, you need to remove the "Z" caps, to get access to the solder pads (too small to solder to if you leave them) and you don't want the signal going every which way (yes, very technical term) You just want it going to the wires you solder there.

 

2. iPod dock available to "harvest" some extra pins from the female dock

 

does it means that i buy another dock to harvest the pins?

will this kind of dock suffice?

 

Um, Maybe . I used one of those "stand up" type docks. The pins in that one you showed may be not long enough ...it would be hard to tell without opening it. Don't go destroying a working item just to get spares ahead of time. You CAN reuse the pins if you are VERY VERY careful pulling them out and working with them. I just found it helpful to have spares since I broke one. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

i have to pry open & harvest the females in the red circle right?

 

Yes, if the were use-able it would be from that end

 

 

to remove the pins from the ipod board, it needs to be desoldered from the board? or desolder and cut them loose using xacto blace tip? and when inserting, does it suppossed to be soldered back to the board?

 

You can actually just cut them very carefully with a super sharp xacto knife, see the following pic. Be very careful not to damage #2 or #5 it would be whole can of worms to figure out how to fix that. No, you do not have to solder them back on, the whole idea is to isolate this new audio feed completely from the board.

 

 

 

 

3. clean the pins with isopropanol, and then slide them back in and epoxy them in place.

 

When those pins come out of the dock, they will be a 90 degree shape. You want to bend them out a bit then solder the wires on. The reason you bend them out a bit is so they won't touch #2 or #5. Then take your signal wires, bend the tips at 90 degrees and solder them to the outer edges of # 2 and #3.

 

The reason you do the outer edges is if you solder the center, they are so close they may touch, just from the thickness of the solder! It is very very cramped in there! So on # 3 for example, solder the wire kind of towards the #2 end, get it? (see the pic) Then when you re-insert them, they will flop around in the dock, since they were bent up a bit. That's why you need to epoxy them. Hold them on proper position and get a bit of epoxy on a toothpick or something and lock them in. 

 

 

 

B. using solder pad beneath (south end) L2 & L3

 

I'm not going to comment on this since I haven't done it this way

 

1. Remove The Z Caps north of DAC

2. Solder wire from DAC > Caps > Solder Pad

 

 

 

 

top: Left Signal

Bottom: Right Signal

if i chose to solder on the empty solder pad like the picture, is it okay to not desoldered L2, L3 & C84, C85?

 

I will say, however that if you do this you should desolder and remove everything, that is my understanding. 

 

or is it best to not desolder L2, L3 & C84, C85, and solder the wires to the L2 & L3? like :

 

 

L2: Right Signal

L3: Left Signal

 

-------------------------------------------------------

 

is it that correct?

 

Remember, the whole idea of the mod is to get a pure signal from the DAC. I think going to the pins is really the best way. And you don't have to mess with desoldering all that L3/C84 etc stuff

 

so if i decided to build my own LOD, does it still have the necessity to solder the 68K resistor for both methods?

 

I don't think a resistor is required

 

and does the Fat/Thick back ipod enclosure compatible with the 30gb ipod 5th frame & front enclosure?

 

Yes! and if you do that you can use the bigger battery so that is a benefit. 

I hope this helps!


Edited by thegrobe - 2/19/13 at 8:33am
post #2598 of 3017
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrobe View Post

Hey, let my try to answer some of these questions, responses are in bold:

I hope this helps!

1 couple more quick question, so that means if i use method A, desolder Z only, and don't touch the others (L2, L3, C84, C85)?

after re-inserting the pin, does it necessary to solder the pin to the board? or you don't have to since you've already soldered the cable, and just glue it to the board?

 

your reply meant a lot for me, forgot to ask a close ups of the pins, but you attached it anyway! 

 

thanks mate beerchug.gif


Edited by elbandito - 2/19/13 at 9:06am
post #2599 of 3017
Yes, if you use method "A" direct to the line out pins, you need to only desolder the Z caps. The L2/C84 etc etc can stay put.

Those Z pads feed directly from the DAC. You are then sending that signal through better caps and directly out of the ipod and to your amp..nothing else in between. So it wouldn't matter if that other stuff was on the board, get it?

Also, please do yourself a favor and get a fairly decent LOD. I tried a Fiio L9, a BTG and also an Eace LOD. Without starting a cable debate, I will say that the L9 sucked. It choked off whatever benefit the mod made. So spend and extra $30 or so on a cable made of decent materials.
post #2600 of 3017
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegrobe View Post

Yes, if you use method "A" direct to the line out pins, you need to only desolder the Z caps. The L2/C84 etc etc can stay put.

Those Z pads feed directly from the DAC. You are then sending that signal through better caps and directly out of the ipod and to your amp..nothing else in between. So it wouldn't matter if that other stuff was on the board, get it?

Also, please do yourself a favor and get a fairly decent LOD. I tried a Fiio L9, a BTG and also an Eace LOD. Without starting a cable debate, I will say that the L9 sucked. It choked off whatever benefit the mod made. So spend and extra $30 or so on a cable made of decent materials.

yes, I'm thinking the same, making a custom LOD with silver wire, but some of the store like this says the package includes a 68K resistor, so I guess I will use the LOD without the resistor.

 

also a bit interested about the high pass filter dc coupling caps, i think there's a space for electrolytic paralleled with (small) film caps inside, especially if I use the thick back, something like :

 

Elna RFS Silmic II 47uf 6.3V / Nichihon ES 47uf 6.3V & Genuine "VitaminQ", Paper-In-Oil, Sprague Part #196P22491S4, as it says here:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Under certain scenarios, a small bypass cap applied in parallel across a large electrolytic can cure the issues of using an electrolytic in the signal path: high end harshness and lack of resolution. High end harshness and lack of resolution occurs in almost all electrolytics: more so in "power" caps versus "boutique" caps, but to a certain extent in both.

 
They also help the sound of many of the boutique caps and pair very well with the Nichicon ES's, for instance, a favorite electrolytic cap for the signal positions on the MAX (CA2 and CA7). Pairing the Wimas with the ES's (or Nichicon Muse KZ's if case height is not an issue) 

 

Source

 

but of course I haven't yet found the dimension spec, so can't sure whether it fits or not, but in a horizontal position, perhaps there's some space? ... what do you think? or am I just imagining things rolleyes.gif

 

additional information, I will feed the LOD to the O2 headamps, which will make them stacks of DIY ... lol


Edited by elbandito - 2/19/13 at 11:01am
post #2601 of 3017
Quote:
Originally Posted by elbandito View Post

yes, I'm thinking the same, making a custom LOD with silver wire, but some of the store like this says the package includes a 68K resistor, so I guess I will use the LOD without the resistor.

 

also a bit interested about the high pass filter dc coupling caps, i think there's a space for electrolytic paralleled with (small) film caps inside, especially if I use the thick back, something like :

 

Elna RFS Silmic II 47uf 6.3V / Nichihon ES 47uf 6.3V & Genuine "VitaminQ", Paper-In-Oil, Sprague Part #196P22491S4, as it says here:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Under certain scenarios, a small bypass cap applied in parallel across a large electrolytic can cure the issues of using an electrolytic in the signal path: high end harshness and lack of resolution. High end harshness and lack of resolution occurs in almost all electrolytics: more so in "power" caps versus "boutique" caps, but to a certain extent in both.

 
They also help the sound of many of the boutique caps and pair very well with the Nichicon ES's, for instance, a favorite electrolytic cap for the signal positions on the MAX (CA2 and CA7). Pairing the Wimas with the ES's (or Nichicon Muse KZ's if case height is not an issue) 

 

Source

 

but of course I haven't yet found the dimension spec, so can't sure whether it fits or not, but in a horizontal position, perhaps there's some space? ... what do you think? or am I just imagining things rolleyes.gif

 

additional information, I will feed the LOD to the O2 headamps, which will make them stacks of DIY ... lol

Ahhh..that resistor, in the LOD. That's what you were referring to. Yes put it in there. It won't affect your 5 G mod in any way, at all. But that makes the LOD work on an iPhone. Certain models will get an error message if that resistor isn't there. Although you don't need it, you may as well put it in so it can be used on all Apple products. 

 

There is no way that vitamin Q cap will fit. They are almost 1/2 inch thick by 1 1/2 inches long.  If anything, try putting 4.7 Uf WIMA film caps in there. They fit with the deep back and sound better than the electrolytics. Mount them up in the space next to the CF card and battery. See my post a page or two back about selecting the uf rating. Under ANY circumstance, the highest rating you would EVER need is 8 uf....47 uf is absolute overkill.

 

If you want to use big ol' honkin caps that is another thing but you need an external enclosure. I have an Altoid tin stuck to the back of an imod with WIMA polypropylene caps inside. wired up with solid silver wire. Ridiculous, but it sounds fantastic!

post #2602 of 3017

ppl, can some1 mod my ipod video 30gb 5.5g? i live in toronto


Edited by rabruslik - 2/28/13 at 12:06am
post #2603 of 3017

Just finished the diyMOD on a 5th Gen iPod Video. Using Elna Silmic II 4.7uF caps. Added SD to CF adapter with 128GB SD Card.

Used 30awg Kynar wire. iPod is running Rockbox (128GB also works on original iPod firmware).

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by viperman3 - 3/13/13 at 9:22pm
post #2604 of 3017

Sweet! Very nice work. Enjoy the new sound...

post #2605 of 3017

viperman, this si sandman, please return to base and confirm which wire did you use over.

is that 30AWG?

post #2606 of 3017

Viperman,
ZIF->CF->SD adapter->SD card works flawlessly? I have in mind of buying SD card too and apply SD card adapter instead of CF card, should be cheaper and more usage in future with card.

post #2607 of 3017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Analoog View Post

Viperman,
ZIF->CF->SD adapter->SD card works flawlessly? I have in mind of buying SD card too and apply SD card adapter instead of CF card, should be cheaper and more usage in future with card.

 

Have a look at Tarkan's website

 

http://www.tarkan.info/20121226/tutorials/ipod-and-sdhc-sdxc-cards

post #2608 of 3017

I have occasionally read bits and pieces of this thread over the last 2 years, but have yet to make any of the user generated modifications to my 5.5G ipod.

 

I realize that to get the best sound quality possible one would want to go DAC > silver wire > better Caps > silver wire > LOD

 

But I've always wondered what would be the outcome if one simply unsoldered the Z-Caps and then resoldered some better 4.7uF caps directly (probably with some extension wires so the caps could be tucked away somewhere with space) to the Z-pads on the circuit board?

My thoughts are that this could possibly increase the sound quality of the head phone out jack while still making use of the ipods stock amplifier. This would be nifty as you would have a fully self contained ipod with better sound quality at both the LOD and headphone out. Thus one would benefit from both feeding the system into an external amp with the LOD, or using a less bulky set up of just the ipod head phone out alone with some IEMs or low impedence headphones.

 

Can someone with more technical expertise with electronics comment on if there would be any significant gains from this route?

post #2609 of 3017
Quote:
Originally Posted by Analoog View Post

Viperman,
ZIF->CF->SD adapter->SD card works flawlessly? I have in mind of buying SD card too and apply SD card adapter instead of CF card, should be cheaper and more usage in future with card.

 

I have one set up exactly that way (with a 128GB Kingston SDXC card). Works absolutely perfectly.

post #2610 of 3017
Quote:
Originally Posted by TorchVert View Post

 

I have one set up exactly that way (with a 128GB Kingston SDXC card). Works absolutely perfectly.

Great, Will make this setup as SD cards are much cheaper.

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