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The Apple diyMod: My Take on the Famous iMod [56k killer] Featuring 3G, 4G, 5G and nano 1G! - Page 125

post #1861 of 2514
Thread Starter 
Thanks, EFN.

I'm interested to see how you do the diyMod touch 1G. I couldn't find a way to those darn audio pins.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1862 of 2514

Modding iPod Video 80G

Finally, I've CF-modded my iPod Video 80G. It's now downgraded to 32G, but without a harddisk.

Next, I'm going to mod it on both phone-out and line-out. However, before doing that, I'd like to seek help for you guys. Pls lend me your hands; I need more than 2, of course.

Let talk about the phone-out mod first. Can anyone confirm if the caps in the square are the caps to be replaced? I don't have a DMM that measure farad. Are those 100uF? My gut feel is telling me there should be enough room for an extra pair of 6mm dia caps (apart from the a pair of caps for line-out) without the presence of the hard disk.

Here is the list of caps with 6mm diameter (all dim in mm):
- Elna Starget 220uF/10V 6dx12l
- Panasonic FC 220uF/10V 6dx14l
- Panasonic ECA0JAM221X 220uF/6.3V 5dx11l
- Rubycon ZA 220uF/6.3V 6.3dx11l




Now, here is the line-out. I'm going to follow gueri_fr's footsteps - having the caps inside the iPod. I'm going to use a 24AWG wire. Is it good to hold or is it too thick?

I believe I'm fine to remove the Z-marked caps, but I've doubts in removing the in the capacitors underneath L2 and L3, C84 and C85. Can I just leave them alone?

Thanks in advance for all the advices and suggestions.
post #1863 of 2514
I would go for metalised film/foil if you can get them in.
WIMA MKS 2 are thin enough to fit @ 5.5mm......
Go for 4.7uf 16V and use a 100K resistor to ground to ensure a low corner frequency
Just my 2p's worth
post #1864 of 2514
Thread Starter 
dumbears:

If you want to switch the coupling capacitors for the headphones, the caps have to be rated for a much higher capacitance than at the line out. Even with the 100k resistor to ground, when you connect your headphones, you are paralleling a low impedance (headphones) with a high impedance (100k resistor), and the effective impedance will be lower than that of your headphones. Someone did a diyMod mini a while back with 220uF SMT capacitors. I'd do the something similar to get a better corner frequency.

C > 1/(2*pi*R*f)
C > 1/(2*pi*32 Ohms*20 Hz)
C > 249uF

You'll need quite a bit of capacitance here. There might also be value in paralleling caps in this position as well, but that's up to the reader/listener to decide.
post #1865 of 2514
Absolutely!
Only use the caps I suggested for the line-out mod.(if they fit)
Not the phone out.

TTFN
post #1866 of 2514
I was that guy who replaced the original PO caps with the 220uF SMT capacitors. To be honest, I can't find any differences since then. :-(

So, I'm thinking of replacing the tan caps with aluminum-electrolyte caps this time provided the space I can have after removing the hard disk.

First time first, I still uncertain if those caps in the red box are the ones to be replaced.
post #1867 of 2514
Quote:
Originally Posted by no_eye_dear View Post
I would go for metalised film/foil if you can get them in.
WIMA MKS 2 are thin enough to fit @ 5.5mm......
Go for 4.7uf 16V and use a 100K resistor to ground to ensure a low corner frequency
Just my 2p's worth
I've already got myself some BG NX Hi-Q 22uF. MKS2 is more expensive though. :P However, I think I should try your suggestion out one day. Thanks!
post #1868 of 2514
The iPod Touch 1G mod was a success. Thanks to a local Head-Fier (xandman) who have the courage to put his beloved Touch 1G to the knife. But not without drama and lotsa sweat.

Firstly, the Touch 1G shell is friggin hard to pry open. I wasted two guitar picks and a pair of iPod opening tools. I ended up using a dull edged knife to do the finishing touch. So there's some nasty marks on one edge of the shell.

Once opened. there's another problem. The DAC area was fully covered with a thin metal shield and the only way to get to the Wolfson DAC was to RIP apart the sheild in a rather brutal method.

Then the painstaking task of locating the output terminals - and yes the space was so scarce that I feared my soldering iron may actually wipe every other nearby VERY tiny caps.

To cut the story short, here's the pic (with the metal shield already ripped off)






Those wires are the 5N Solid Core pure silver (teflon insulated). The sound really give the DIYmod 5G a run for the money. Nothing short of awesome - dominantly transparent and clean as if a veil have been lifted from the Touch 1G unit.
post #1869 of 2514
Thread Starter 
That's what I figured one would have to do in order to diyMod the touch. Great pics, EFN. That's amazing work. I wonder if part of the function of the metal covers was also to help dissipate thermal energy. How does the unit run without the cover?
post #1870 of 2514
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dumbears View Post
I was that guy who replaced the original PO caps with the 220uF SMT capacitors.
post #1871 of 2514
Quote:
Originally Posted by joneeboi View Post
That's what I figured one would have to do in order to diyMod the touch. Great pics, EFN. That's amazing work. I wonder if part of the function of the metal covers was also to help dissipate thermal energy. How does the unit run without the cover?
During the trial run I don't detect any heat at the back panel. It has been passed back to the happy owner. But as far as I can see, they runs just fine.
post #1872 of 2514
Let me add a bit about the heat thingy...
No it doesnt heat up...i m still wondering what is the purpose of the metal sheet...

and EFN...nice work!
Metallica S&M never sounded better!
post #1873 of 2514
For those who are ultra cautious, couldn't the sheet simply be reapplied with a dab of hotglue or something?

I don't know just throwing it out there.
post #1874 of 2514
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzer1975 View Post
For those who are ultra cautious, couldn't the sheet simply be reapplied with a dab of hotglue or something?

I don't know just throwing it out there.
I don't see how to replace back the ripped metal sheet unless someone know how to remove them "gracefully". They were like cemented to the iPod Touch board and the action of ripping them apart will guarantee that they will be unusable after that.

But again like xandman mentioned, there's no heat generated with the sheild ripped off. Once I have recovered my $$, I will surely buy myself an iPod Touch 1G soon - just loved the slim profile
post #1875 of 2514
Ahh sorry, I havent seen the metal sheet, and just wondered if it would have been a possibility to reattach afterwards, but I understand to be able to remove it means it will be unuseable again. No worries
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