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BTW, Taking suggestions which ipod worked best with this mod, will consider buying a nice one if my nano 4GB doesn't wake back up.
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BTW, Taking suggestions which ipod worked best with this mod, will consider buying a nice one if my nano 4GB doesn't wake back up.
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across the ground and signal rings. ground is the first ring while left channel is the tip and right is the middle. put your meter in DC voltage mode and set it to the appropriate range. if you measure across the ground and left channel for instance you should get no more than ~20mV. so put one end (usually the black probe '-' or common) on the ground and one on the left channel (red '+'). hmmmm. nah you'll be ok
I hope |
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Turns out my multimeter doesn't do millivolts so I need to get another one! Thanks for your help.
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See attached pics, hope this helps someone out trying this... They say education costs money.
BTW, Taking suggestions which ipod worked best with this mod, will consider buying a nice one if my nano 4GB doesn't wake back up. |
I echo what qusp said though. I like the 5.5G for being the last iPod to have survived Apple's crippleware. (I thank God my girlfriend went from a nano 2G 4GB to a 5G 60GB instead of the 7G 120GB, on my advice of course.
I'm so lucky to have her.) Plus, it has expandable memory, rather, a replaceable hard drive. Look around head-fi and the general interweb for plenty of hard drive swaps taking place in the 5G/5.5G. There's the CF mod, 100GB and 120GB drives, and even the theoretical 240GB hard drive you can try on if you like. Or if you want to kick it old school, the iPod photo has a nice look and feel to it. The world is your oyster. 
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awesome!
Ok, now since there needs to be a capacitor, does it really matter where it is as long as it is between the ipod and the source? I.E. could I just cut the cable in my car and put a capacitor in halfway? Seems much easier than fitting it into the ipod connector, and since it is always in my car it won't be an eyesore Thanks for the help orange! |
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I do have a multimeter....but I don't know exactly where to connect it to the 3.5mm plug. If someone could advise...Sorry for my utter ignorance!
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Still, if you open it back up again, take a lot of pictures and show them here. Someone will be able to tell if it is done correctly.|
Allow me to elab. Following the picture in the first post for the short & wide Nano where you thought the LOUT/ROUT would be, i attached very small Magnet wire (radioshack), to the DAC side of the caps, ran them to the dock connector, which i then ended up solider bridging about five of the pins, but that's another story. I would love to tell you how well the mod went for me, and how much better the sound output is on my 2.2kW car stereo, but this isn't the case. I think i bricked it pokin around with my O-scope looking for audio near your suspected DAC. And i did find audio, on both sides of the board. I believe i accidentally shorted two pins on the memory chip while the ipod was apart and running, but that was my fault. Read through most of the thread, (149 pages guys?!), and didn't come across any relevant info, so here are at least a few conclusions of where the audio actually is on the board...
See attached pics, hope this helps someone out trying this... They say education costs money. BTW, Taking suggestions which ipod worked best with this mod, will consider buying a nice one if my nano 4GB doesn't wake back up. |






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I also use a zip-tie with my docks; that's a nice touch. I personally use either pins 15/16 or 29/30 for ground to help with the neatness and ease of soldering. To prevent pin breakage, I also leave a little more cable in the dock before the zip tie. I've had a few docks stop working on me due pins breaking because they were tugged just a little too hard. Finally, I only use the dock that snaps shut. If I ever need to service it, I like to be able to open it and mess around inside again. Just my two bits for anyone who'll take it.
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I just ordered another set of dock connectors from Ridax. They have a slim one that's meant for iPhone that snaps shut, so I'm going to see what that's like. I also got his Breakout/Extender board. Checking the voltages and resistances on the pins will be much easier now. Maybe it'll help me figure out how to get rid of that cursed "This accessory is not made to work with iPhone" message. *fingers crossed*



