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Diy Beginners Guide
Last edited: 7/22/13
- Headphone ImpedanceLast edited: 8/18/12
Before I begin with my review of the Beyerdynamic XP1, all of the below are solely what I’ve managed to get out of the IEM, I suggest to try it out or read some other people’s review to get a...
See The Whole Review With Pictures Here: http://db-headphones.blogspot.com ... Oh and ignore the sliders for the audio quality, value etc. I can't edit the slider scoring on mobile. Disclaimer: I...
Disclaimer First of all, huge thanks to Audrey and the Brainwavz team for giving me the opportunity to write this review. Please note that I was not paid to write this review, nor am I...
First, the normal boilerplate stuff - Audio setup - FLAC files in MEdia Monkey -> Amazon Basics TOSLINK cable -> Schiit Bifrost w/Uber upgrade -> Knukoncept Shielded RCAS -> Project Ember...
Here are my impressions of the Fiio X1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEj0wLE-ojU
- Headphone Impedance
Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp - Page 624
Head-Fi's Best Sellers
Hi, I had been using the ZERO DAC (no usb version) for a long time.
Three weeks ago, the power button stop working and the machine keep power-on all the time.
I had tried open the case but can do nothing at all........
Now, I need to unplug the power cord every time after use.
Does anyone have an idea of how to fix it?
On the other hand, if I would like to upgrade to a new DAC +headamp, any recommendation for the price of around $200.
Many many thanks.
I had tried open up the case but found the power switch was covered rather firmly, for a non-diyer, no confident to do so.
Last night, when I plug in the power cord, zero power led blink and strange sound came out of the earphone.
I tried to on/off the power button for a few times, then it works again. I can switch on & off the zero last night.
Don't know how long will this last......
Any recommendation if the zero finally die and need a new replacement
I don't quite uderstand what's the problem with switch replacement - you just unsrew two screws, remove the black shrink-tube (= cut it open) and replace the switch for new one.
About the recommendation: on the same level as ZERO there is Audinst HUD-mx1 for example; better choices than original ZERO are Audio-GD products (NFB 15 or something second-handed)...
After reading the first several pages of this thread, I bought a Zero. It arrived last week (about 3 days after my order - from China!). When it arrived, I hooked it up to my PC via the USB port to burn it in. This is my first dac/headphone amp, but it sounded great to me out of the box. During the burn in process, I happened to be crawling around the back of my computer, and noticed there was an audio out port. So I trotted over to Radio Shack and got an Auvio digital coax cable. I hooked up the digital coax cable and cycled the Zero (LED light changed) - no sound. USB still worked. So I figured maybe there was a problem with the audio digital port on my computer.
However, I actually bought the Zero to use with my home audio system, because my Oppo BDP 103 lacks a headphone jack. Since the Oppo was already connected to other components, the only available audio out was the digital coax. So I connected the Zero and the Oppo via Auvio cable, and voila - my HD700's were singing.
I then tried connecting the Zero to my Squeezebox Touch via the USB port, which had worked perfectly when it was hooked up to my computer. NO SOUND! To check the Squeezebox, I turned my Maggie's on, and the Squeezebox worked fine through them.
So I'm perplexed. Is the Zero designed to work with only one input connection at a time? I thought the purpose of the selector was specifically so you could choose among several simultaneously connected sources. So am I wrong in thinking there is something wrong with my Zero? Or is there some software or another "trick" I need to try to get it to play music from different inputs simultaneously connected?
If there is something wrong, does anyone have any experience with cheaply shipping something back to China/Hong Kong?
HumanSaurusRex: in the 2010 the ZERO was certainly better than Dacmagic. But I think there were some updates on DACmagic since that time, but there were also quite big audible differences in ZERO in that time.
jocar37: ZERO works even with all inputs connected, so I recommend trying optical input. If optical is OK than the coaxial input is defective (maybe just connector). If the optical is not working then there is something strange happening since the USB in nothing more than USB=>S/PDIF converter with S/PDIF output internally connected to the third S/PDIF input.
I have been using the Zero for the past two years with my Q701s and it has been a detailed and analytical journey. I run the LT1364 + LT1469 combination for the DAC/AMP. However, I am looking for a more relaxed, smoother sound and am planning to upgradeto the Audeze LCD-2s.
I was wondering if anybody has had experience with the combination and if the amp has enough power to make the Audezes sound good?
I use the Zero DAC via USB (stock) + LCD-2's and I find it to be quite laid back as it is. I haven't tried LT1364 + LT1469 but i'm in the process of swapping the OPamps to achieve the same feel as you. So i'll let you know how it goes. Other than that the DAC/Amp drives the LCD-2's just fine and sounds great!.
Nice! The Opamp switch was a big help to the sound. Bass got tighter and did not sound as recessed. I was able to get them by requesting free samples from Linear. Best deal EVER!! Yea, let me know how it goes.
Amarok CZ - I went to use the optical port, but there's a piece of plastic protruding from it. Is that supposed to be in there? My optical cable doesn't seem to fit. I thought maybe it was a protective piece to cover the port when not in use, but it doesn't seem to come out, and I didn't want to force it.
- Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
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